Im replacing my old transmission and I cant get the new one to slide in the clutch hole I tried shaking and spun the fly wheel to line it up but it wont go in I had half of it almost flush but the back wouldn't go in so I took it complety off again help please

 

I hate doing this. I always have so much trouble, but sounds like you were close. Take your time and be careful with it but your gonna have to really push it in there once its lined up. Then use the bolts the hold the starter on and the other mounting bolts to seal it on, slowly tighten each bolt a little at a time to it all mounts on flush and keep it lined up. I usually end up using a jack underneath it and a rope or chain from a support bar above the car to keep it lined up.
Dont even get me started on that little block plate on the bottom the the tranny...

 

1. U gotta tell us about your drivetran.

2. Try atleast two more times. Believe you can do it, wiggle it real good.

 

it sucks man I hope I can get it on tomorrow im thinking of not putting that plate back I hate it too thanks

 

im tired as hell ill be back on tomorrow morning to see if anyone else can give me more tips thanks

 

guessing this is a SOHC 5MT trans, you know it has dowels that have to be lined up and then you have to press that thing on there!!!. Being obd1 with a tucked/shaved bay I just remove the whole engine in my integra... takes me about 45-mins not even to pull it out, then I do the clutch while it's out so so much easier.

 

Are you using a clutch alignment tool? If not, this is going to be a pain in the ***...

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...electedIndex=2

 

im mad dude so close but yet so far lol

 

and I haven't changed the clutch only tranny's

 

I know the frustration...we installed a clutch on my buddy's Evo X last winter and every time we would get the two halves to line up (after 30-45 min of playing tetris with the engine/tranny), the input shaft would spring the throw-out bearing assembly, which forced us to take it back apart. This situation repeated itself several times over the course of 2 very annoying nights.

 

Did you get the same tranny that you previously had? just curious.

 

The input shaft is hard to line up to the clutch splines and pilot bearing. A trans jack helps with support.

The dowel pins are the ones that keep the trans from sitting flush with the block since they're a little bit of a force fit. If you're CAREFUL...you can draw the trans in by tightening the bell housing bolts slowly in a criss cross pattern and keeping all the gaps even till the trans pops over the stupid dowels.

Also...make sure you only have 1 dowel per hole. If you're replacing transmissions, you might have left a dowel in the block and the new trans may have a dowel in the trans. That makes 2 per hole. Aint finna work.

1 dowel per dowel hole. You're not trying to make some sort of crazy dowel porno.

 

I dont know is this is frowned upon but I rolled the edges of my dowels inward so that they fit in better heh, the majority of it was still nice and straight

 

Ive never had any problems with the dowels putting the trans back on

 

You've done a trans while the motor is still in the car?

 

I do it with the engine in the car everytime I do it. What works everytime for me is to put the trans on your pelvis region and push it up with your hips and legs. Wiggle it to get the shaft into the splines then line the dowels up. Then I have somebody handthread the gearbox to the engine and Voila!

Make sure to lightly lube the mainshaft and shift fork post in the clutch housing side.

Im only 145 pounds and I can push it up under the car.

 

Another thing that can help which we did (helps to have at least one helper, going solo really isn't fun) was we put a socket to the crank pulley and turned the motor counter clockwise a tiny bit until the input shaft slid through the clutch, after that the bell housing was less than an inch apart from the block.

 

Get a jack under the tranny, muscle it on the jack if you have to or put a board in between them. This is the only way I got it up and was able to align it. If you try to do it with no assistance of any type you're gonna **** that clutch up.

 

BTW OP, before you make the same mistake my buddy and I did, count the teeth on the input shaft and count the teeth on the clutch. We spent 2 hours trying to wrestle the transmission on, mostly with me underneath benchpressing it while he tried to align it. My arms were jelly...and then we counted the splines and found out we had the wrong clutch, lol.

 

That's kind of where I was headed with my question. Make sure the splines are the same. Other than that, use your alignment tool. I know you said you didn't remove the clutch, but it's still best to make sure. Never know, you could've moved the clutch disc a tiny bit while trying to disconnect the tob from the pressure plate.

 

most of them ive done engine was in the car

 

And you never found that the dowel pins got hung up a bit/were a tight fit?

 

Never was a problem maybe i get lucky everytime??

 

Luckeeeeeeh. I've had that happen once or twice while the engine was still in the car. But not every time.

When the engine is out of the chassis...no problem

 

I got an h series in a civic. If you've ever partaken in putting an h in an eg chassis it's much easier to leave the engine in lol.