Wondering if there are any reliabilty/quality control issues with any of these piston/ring/pin combos seen floating around for sale. Anyone have a lot of miles on an engine they put some pr3/p73/pct knock off pistons in?

 

I have nippon p30 and got about 12,000 miles on them. no issues so far.

 

What block/crank/head you running with those. I'm still trying to figure out the exact compression ratios for pr3 and p30's in a gsr/p72 bottom end with b16/pr3 head. Never get a definite answer, always just an estimate - low/mid 11:1

 

well Im running gsr block with ls crank and ls eagle rods, nippon p30 pistons, stock 3 layer head gasket b16a head with .15 mil and Im at 11:7:1 I think. According to Zeal

 

cuz ur chamber and mine

would have 1.5cc variation on each 1-2-3-4 chamber


so zeal checks "as if" all 4 are within 42.7cc which isnt the case...


HTH

 

Did you get the floating pin pistons since you have the eagle rods? What gas you running? No detonation issues, right? Best we got here is 93 octane. Im still up in the air on going with an ls crank and rods vs the gsr ones. You would think the gsr would be better for longevity with its better rod ratio/ bigger bearings on the big end of the rods/ better balancing of the crank and rods from factory and bigger rod bolts plus you can't run the oil squirters with LS either.. I know that a lot of that gets addressed with your eagle rods but I'm still going to run stock rods as 200whp shouldn't be any problem for them, also no need to spend like $300 some bucks for those rods. Not sure if the extra mid range power of the LS crank would be worth it for me vs reliability.

 

Not sure what you mean.

 

The daily beater has a set of RS Machine p73 clones in it, been running for exactly two years this week. ~43000 miles off the top of my head but I'd need to check my work log to give you an exact number. 84.5mm B20Z/P8R, it's 100% Honda parts save for the pistons & ACL race bearings.

No problems whatsoever.

 

He means that there is no way to positively know your CR without physically measuring it.

You have to CC the combustion chambers, CC the pistons, measure the piston-to-deck height, measure the head gasket, etc. you cant just plug a bunch of numbers into some calculator and get your actual compression. You will get a guesstimate, but that's all it is. Just like a basemap... lol

 

What head setup? And what P2W clearance?

 

Bone stock P8R (non vtec), redid valve job to stock specs. Once again, I'd have to check the build sheet for P2W but it was pretty close to nominal stock specs, recalculated for the extra .020" of piston size. Car runs great despite a restrictive exhaust/stock P75 intake manifold (show's over by 6200) and burns maybe half a quart over the life of an oil change.

 

Yes I got the floating ones, came with spiral locks, 93 oct for gas, not det issues either, going to change header tho since this dc junk is not good for my setup, thinking toda replica. I'm having issue with tune because my setup so going to change up header and injectors.

 

Yes I know it won't be exact without all the actual specific numbers but if you took all the stock non milled block, head plus stock head gasket, cams ect, you should be able to get a solid number.

I've tried a couple calculators and they come out with different results for some reason, even different results for bone stock setups from the factory. They are all close but just want to make sure its going to work in theory before buying stuff, ya know.

 

 

^^ now those are some even ptw numbers!^^ your built b20 goes through as much oil as my stock jdm one does and i make wayy less hp lol.

ive use the rs pistons in 2 of my own motors. the first one ran fine it had 17k miles. i sold the shell and parted the motor.

the other motor lasted 13k miles. it ingested some **** and scored a cylinder wall which had nothing to do with the pistons. the pistons looked great when disassembled. this year its going back together @82mm with nippon p72 pistons to bring my compression around 10.8-11:1 down from a hair over 12:1 which overall wasnt very fond of my itr cams, small exhaust and pump gas

i see no reason why a properly built and tuned motor wouldnt last 100,000 miles, but then again that has a lot to do with how you drive

 

Yeah I was pretty surprised at how equal all the pistons were. I only had to dust one of them a little to get all within half a gram of each other. Machine shop did a real good job with the block too, all the bores were just about perfect.

 

Which pistons were in it before to get you to around 12:1?

 

Rs machines pr3 @81.5mm. Stock hg and a few thousand off the head for resurface zeal saud it qas a bit iver 12:1

 

81.5 RS Machine P73 clones, LS 137mm rods, LS 89mm crank, GSR head - been track racing it pretty hard to 9k for the past two years. low miles but each one earned

im running just over 12:1 with OEM HG
All in all Im really happy.

 

I guess you are running an ls block?

 

Yours sounds like an ls block with that gsr head, right? No prob with detonation being 12:1 or you running race gas?

 

Thinking I'm going to go with the nippon or RS pr3's in my p72 block. Wish I could just get some jdm p73oo but looks like all the itr copies are usdm p73ao. I'm looking for low 11:1 compression with the stock HG and a pr3 head. Glad to hear there doesn't seem to be any issues with any of these brands.

 

Now do I still need to mill my p72 gsr rods to put these pr3's on or did they open the casting up or machine them a little to accommodate all the stock rod setups since people are running them on everything and it would make things a little easier?

Anyone know the brand of rings that come with either set?

Do the RS have those oil holes in the underside of the wrist pin bosses like the nippon?

 

I believe they both use hastings rings.

My nippon Pr3's fit on my GSR rods w/o modification in the last motor I built a couple years back.

I do not know about the RS pictons oil holes, Never had a set. Always used nippon w/o issue and saved a few $$

 

I'm 90% sure they're the same castings regardless of the vendor. I'm also pretty confident my RS ones had the oil holes but I can't remember for sure.

At the time I think RS was advertising that the rings were Wiseco, but they were brown box so you are really at the mercy of the seller as far as what they actually are. So many of those manufacturers are outsourcing these days that chances are they're the same ones regardless of the actual brand name anyway.