motor mounts question
What motor mounts do i use for an ls-vtec swap in my 96 civic coupe? The cars shaking with the ones it has on there.. unknown what mounts they used when they did the swap..
You can reuse the stock mounts that came with the car, or buy some nice aftermarket ones.
Hasport, Avid, and Innovative are some reputable brands that sell quality aftermarket motor mounts.
Go ahead and post a pic of the engine bay and I'm sure some one will be able to identify the mounts you have.
Hasport, Avid, and Innovative are some reputable brands that sell quality aftermarket motor mounts.
Go ahead and post a pic of the engine bay and I'm sure some one will be able to identify the mounts you have.
You can reuse the stock mounts that came with the car, or buy some nice aftermarket ones.
Hasport, Avid, and Innovative are some reputable brands that sell quality aftermarket motor mounts.
Go ahead and post a pic of the engine bay and I'm sure some one will be able to identify the mounts you have.
Hasport, Avid, and Innovative are some reputable brands that sell quality aftermarket motor mounts.
Go ahead and post a pic of the engine bay and I'm sure some one will be able to identify the mounts you have.
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Well uh, they didn't use ANY front torque mounts, which is kind of stupid to start with.
Maybe you should figure out WHY the engine is vibrating, rather than trying to cover it up with soft mounts.
Maybe you should figure out WHY the engine is vibrating, rather than trying to cover it up with soft mounts.
There are two smaller "assisting" mounts that keep the engine from torquing under heavy load (like uphill takeoff). One is attached to the A/C bracket, which you don't have there, and the other goes to the front of the tranny. They have a bushing on the end that bolts to the underside of the frame rail on either side.
There are two smaller "assisting" mounts that keep the engine from torquing under heavy load (like uphill takeoff). One is attached to the A/C bracket, which you don't have there, and the other goes to the front of the tranny. They have a bushing on the end that bolts to the underside of the frame rail on either side.
You could diagnose the wheel/tire issue by having you're tires rebalanced. Not sure about how much that would cost, but if they are already properly balanced I would assume the mechanic would not charge you.
Those are definitely aftermarket mounts, which are probably stiffer than OEM. You also don't have either torque mounts installed, which has already been said.
If the car is vibrating under load specifically, I would have to say the normal culprits are either bad alignment, bad axles, or bent/unbalanced wheels. Those are the areas that I would personally inspect first, but you could also go down the list that NotARacist has provided.
Those are definitely aftermarket mounts, which are probably stiffer than OEM. You also don't have either torque mounts installed, which has already been said.
If the car is vibrating under load specifically, I would have to say the normal culprits are either bad alignment, bad axles, or bent/unbalanced wheels. Those are the areas that I would personally inspect first, but you could also go down the list that NotARacist has provided.
You could diagnose the wheel/tire issue by having you're tires rebalanced. Not sure about how much that would cost, but if they are already properly balanced I would assume the mechanic would not charge you.
Those are definitely aftermarket mounts, which are probably stiffer than OEM. You also don't have either torque mounts installed, which has already been said.
If the car is vibrating under load specifically, I would have to say the normal culprits are either bad alignment, bad axles, or bent/unbalanced wheels. Those are the areas that I would personally inspect first, but you could also go down the list that NotARacist has provided.
Those are definitely aftermarket mounts, which are probably stiffer than OEM. You also don't have either torque mounts installed, which has already been said.
If the car is vibrating under load specifically, I would have to say the normal culprits are either bad alignment, bad axles, or bent/unbalanced wheels. Those are the areas that I would personally inspect first, but you could also go down the list that NotARacist has provided.
Well I was driving it today and when I'm coasting it doesn't vibrate at all.. But with the clutch pressed in and given gas the vibration comes back.. I know that one of the CV boots is torn.. But I would think it would vibrate only under a load if the CV was causing it right? Do you know if they do any modification to the mount or mount bracket (on the rear of the engine)?
I'm pretty sure if your CV boot is torn, most of the grease has probably leaked out causing your axle to wear down (correct me if I'm wrong). At this point, you might want to replace that axle.
So when you go to change gears (clutch pressed in to shift then given gas) when you step on the gas it vibrates? Which would mean that the car vibrates under load?
I'm pretty sure if your CV boot is torn, most of the grease has probably leaked out causing your axle to wear down (correct me if I'm wrong). At this point, you might want to replace that axle.
I'm pretty sure if your CV boot is torn, most of the grease has probably leaked out causing your axle to wear down (correct me if I'm wrong). At this point, you might want to replace that axle.
Well if you didn't replace the axle with the torn boot you probably would have run into problems down the road anyway, and you can get the EM1 T bracket at the honda dealership for like $65 or find one on ebay. I think I got mine for $50 on ebay.
EM1 Is that the part #?



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i will update when solved..