My car: 96' civic hatchback with b18b1 swap

EDIT: More Videos Posted Blow 5/4

When I got the swap, the original crank pulley was damaged to crap, so I decided to get a lightweight VMS Crank Pulley for $90. When I got the car running, i flipped on my air conditioning and while under load their is a loud shrEEEEEEKing noise coming from under the hood. I know it's the AC because as soon as I turn it off, the noise goes away.

I checked my belt for tension, and it seems to be alright (I can twist it 90 degrees), and I also cannot tighten it anymore than it already is.

Could my light weight crankshaft pulley be throwing off the weight proportion for the AC belt? My alternator seems to be running fine.

Any input is appreciated, thanks.


Heres a pic of the pulley:

 

Probably not crank pulley related and more likely your A/C Compressor clutch is making the noise.

 

yeah i think it's probably this, specifically it could be the ac compressor clutch bearing

 

Is it the correct belt?

 

How much less does the crank pully weigh than the original one?

 

What would this matter?

 

noone asked you grumpy crazy cat dude

 

I'm asking. What does the weight of the crank pulley have to do with anything?

 

But my A/C compressor was working just fine on my d16y7 motor. I just realized that when I ordered my 97-00 CRV AC bracket, it did not come with an idler pulley so i used the one off of the Y7 bracket. I guess I'm using the wrong pulley now?

I am using the correct belt, ordered from RockAuto. Also, the lightweight pulley is the exact size of the OEM pulley and is made of Billet Aluminum weighing 1 pound 15 ounces.

 

Stick your head under the hood with the car and A/C running and VERIFY where the squealing is coming from and stop speculating. More than likely it's the compressor clutch. Did you check for proper tensioning of the belt?

 

But my A/C was running perfectly with my y7 in the car, so how could it be the compressor? In the OP I stated that I could twist the belt 90 degrees, which i was told was correct tension.

I'll go check it out again soon.

 

Here are some videos:

Checking the tension:
https://vimeo.com/93447533

Hearing the noise at Idle:
https://vimeo.com/93450215

Another bit of info, when the A/C is on and the compressor stops spinning/condenser fan turns off for a bit, the sound goes away. Is this an obvious sign that it is my A/C compressor bearing?

 

That or the bearing in your tensioner. If you can get a long screw driver (or mechanics stethoscope, can be had pretty cheap at harbor freight) and put the handle to your ear and put it on the bearing at the tensioner and then at your compressor you should be able to pin point it pretty easily.

 

Does my tension look alright? I'll try that trick to pin point it, I honestly am having a hard time believing that it's my A/C Compressor bearing because it was working flawlessly in my car before the swap.

I'll post results tomorrow.

 

FTFY n00b

How long did it sit between working perfectly and the swap? In what conditions was it kept?


Sitting is HORRIBLE for stuff. Sitting outside is even worse.

 

When I pulled out my y7 I took it off and put it on my b18b1, the b18b1 sat for a few days in the garage before I swapped it in. What effect would this have on it?

 

it wouldn't. Maybe if it wasn't handled with care, but an AC compressor sitting for a few days, few weeks, wont hurt it. I doubt sitting for a month or more would even hurt it. Years, maybe it would..

 

a) the belt is too loose.

b) check the bearing in the tensioner. remove the belt and inspect.

 

You can use pretty much anything that's long and you can put your ear up to. I used a ski pole once.

 

Alright, I figured. I'm going to remove the belt once I get my car back from the shop, getting my Avital 5303L alarm intstalled

I'll perform the long screw driver trick before removing the belt to see if I can pin point it.

 

Saw this today and interested me into thinking it could be the A/C compressor bearing, when I open the throttle high enough, the A/C compressor "skips". Check out the video

Skip to 0:16 if you don't want to wait
https://vimeo.com/93937006

Tried the screw driver trick, and also used a breaker bar and couldn't really pin point it because the A/C compressor and Idler pulley are so close.

 

Isn't that pully about 20$? Might as well change it for the lulz if nothing else

 

$34.92 from Majestic. I would be down except shipping and handling is $293842903840293842 from them, i'll hit up O'Reilly.

 

yeah dude, I meant aftermarket. I think that's what rock auto wanted for generic, I think doordude.

seriously OP. What do your crank pullys weigh in at?

 

Ooo I'll hit up RockAuto then, i bought a ton of **** from them when i was semi-rebuilding my motor.

My VMS pulley weighs 1 pound 15 ounces.