I'm having issues with my jdm 96spec r motor. I bought car this way. Car is having bogging issues that seem to be related to the way the swap was done. Swap was done with obd2 injectors, dizzy and alternator. The guy spliced and wired in obd2 clips into the obd1 eg si harness. Then he wired and spliced some wires at the ecu. I'm guessing to correct what he did with the obd2 clips on the obd1 harness. If you touch the wires spliced by the ecu car bogs more than usual and once threw a cel. Didn't get what code it threw cause I immediately turned the car off and when I turned it back on cel was gone. This weekend I will be replacing the whole underdash harness hoping that this will solve my problem. Any advice???

 

After reading I hear that I can get a obd2 gsr harness and use a obd1 ecu with type r base map and it should be a plug and play. Is this true?

 

You don't want or need a OBD2 GSR harness.

Match the harness to the chassis. Although, I believe you can use a OBD1 GSR engine harness. Chassis harness should be matched to the car. Try go find a 92-95 Civic at a junkyard.

Use a chipped/tuneable OBD1 ECU.

 

Yes.





If someone cut the OBD1 ECU plugs off the cabin harness you'll need to replace them or the cabin harness though, assuming you want to run an OBD1 ECU.

 

^x2. You don't want a 92-95 harness if you're using OBD2 components because not everything will plug and play. However you'll still have to run wires for the VTEC and knock sensor from the shock tower to the ECU in order to not get a check engine light. You're still going to need to figure out the issue with the wiring at your ECU and possibly resolder those connections.

 

It's already an Si so just knock, and if using a chipped P28 that's not needed either.

 

I would just tear out the entire harness and get an OBD2a harness, OBD2 to OBD1 converter, and injector/dizzy clips if needed. Easy and clean.

 

Thanks this is exactly what I was looking for. Sorry to come back so late. Truth is I blew the head gasket soon after. Now I am just getting to it. I tore it down and took the had bolts out bUT the head did not want to come off. My dumb tried to use a flathead wrapped in electriCal tape to try and pry it open thinking it was stuck on the guides. Turns out it was the 2 bolts holding the intake manifold to the back of the block. I think this is only on theses motors because iv never seen it before. Now I am concerned that I damaged the block because I see scoring from were I tried to pry. Any advice? ? Will this affect the head headgasket seal??

 

Possibly, post pics

 

 

 

Also what timing belt do you recommend. Should I ask the parts store for 2001 type r b18c5 belt and tensioner

 

You might as well pull the block and get the head and block redone. Next time try a rubber mallet.

 

So thoses scratches will definitely effect the head seal ?? By pulling the block do you mean pulling it all part and get it honed with new rings. I don't want to get bigger pistons. I want to keep it as stock as possible.

 

Bump!

 

Lololololololol

Stop touching that poor gsr

Every motor has that manifold bracket.

You're gonna need to deck the block. You need to tear down the motor for that.

Gl

 

It's a JDM type r lol. My 94 DB8 didn't have that bracket when I changed manifolds? ? Aww man seriously. I will have to get my block decked. I was just trying to change the FREAKN

 

HEAD GASKET

 

Those scores will most likely cause it to leak. In order to deck the block/head (machine shop smooths out the mating surfaces) you would need to break them down anyways. That means a full rebuild would be nice while everything is out. As for the headgasket you should get an OEM headgasket. In my area a machine shop service plus rebuild would be around $1200 parts and labor.

 

Thanks I really appreciate the advice. Unfortunately I dont have the money to rebuild the Block right now. Is their anything I can do to rig it to work for some time till I get the money to rebuild it or is that my only option.

 

Just because your other ride didn't have doesn't mean all others shouldn't either. Wow man those are some gouges....

 

So...why were you trying to change the head gasket? Was there something wrong with it?

Buy a honda genuine head gasket if you need a replacement, BTW. The unfortunate thing is that since the head gasket is metal and not that weird...foil..paper...crush stuff, the head and block do need to be very flat in order to seal.

You should have that fixed professionally. But....you can try LIGHTLY sanding off the edges and burrs. Then use a small amount of Honda Bond as filler. It may work.

Don't go to a parts store to buy a T belt/components.

Buy a gates kit from rock auto or buy everything from honda. A dealer parts website is a good place to start. Bernardiparts.com, acuraoemparts.com, etc.

You'll want a t belt, tensioner, water pump, front main seal, front cam seals, and a tensioner spring.

97-01 ITR parts will work. Most (if not all) GSR parts work too.

 

Thanks. I lightly sanded thoses spots then used that bronze HG spray on it. I used gates for timing components and fel-pro for gaksets. Nothing leaks as far as I can tell. Though I am still having a bad bog/miss fire. I found that cylinder 4 is not igniting. I tried new spark plug. Didn't fix it. I tried a new cap & rotor and that fixed it for 2 days. Then cylinder 4 went dead again. I started to check connection at the 4th injector and through code 16 for injectors not working. Today I purchased a OBD2 GSR WRONG HARNESS. I am hoping this fixes mt problem. The harness I bought though was cut at the ground for the tranny. How do I reinstall this into the harness. Take a look

 

 

The issue I am currently experiencing is that cylinder # 4. The closes to the dizzy is not firing up. Their is no combustion going on!!