93 civic dx, just put a d16z6 head on a d15b block, Everything seems to be running fine. The exhaust manifold stud, closest to the timing belt, the low one, its broke off about a quarter inch or so in the head. I thought it was just missing when I got the head. But now that ive been driving, i can hear an exhaust leak wondering if thats the leak. Any ideas on what I can do to try to get it secure, or will this one stud not matter other than the leak driving me nutts, if that is in fact where i hear it. I could try to drill and heli coil it, i don't know how deep though. Anyone else have this problem, and if so, how did you take care of the problem? Thanks.

 

One of the exhaust studs in my d15b7 head is stripped, which i may helicoil or just ignore it. Its on the opposite side, though.

You shouldn't drill out the bolt in the engine. You should punch it in the center, drill a small hole in it with a left handed (backwards) drill bit, and use an extractor bit to pull it out.

 

A few weeks ago I removed and replaced a broken exhaust stud successfully on a d15b head. The stud was broke inside of the head and could not be removed with vise grips. I followed the method suggested from this link.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...y+exhaust+stud

 

You've got two options.


1. Remove exhaust manifold, get a 90 degree drill and drill a pilot hole direct center of it. Afterwards, get a reverse drill bit and/or bolt extractor and run your drill through it backwards.

I used to prefer that method until I became good at the next one.

2. Remove exhaust manifold, weld another bolt to the broken stud, put a socket on the new bolt and remove it.

 

At least I am not the only one that broke one recently. I broke one right in half yesterday just installing it.

 

methond #2 makes it really easy, so long as the bolt isn't broken off entirely inside of the bolt hole. Otherwise, this situation is when your trusty irwin extractor set comes in handy.

 

best way to do it

 

You can still use a welder if it's broken off halfway inside the hole, I do it all the time on 4.7L Dodge Durango/Jeep Grand Cherokees.


For extractors, I use those crappy Harbor Freight sets for five bucks. Use it once, all the drill bits break in the process, use the extractor and go buy another one next time I need it.




Edit: LoL at that cam gear bolt. How does that even happen to a cam gear bolt?

 

I was being lazy, turned it to TDC with the cam and cracked the bolt in half. I got it to TDC though!!

how do you get a nut on if theres no bolt to attach it to?

 

Easy, you don't weld a nut onto it, you weld a shank of some sort onto it. For the shank, I usually use a smaller bolt. If there's no room to get that smaller bolt in because the stud is broken off deep inside, you tack some weld on top of the broken stud and continue doing so until you've got enough meat to tack a bolt on it or grab it with a pair of vise grips.

 

damn i could see why you said "until i got good at it", sounds sorta difficult. Prolly easier than sitting there for 20 mins with a drill though

 

It's easy, here's a link on a how-to from a random google search: http://www.galantvr4.org/ubbthreads/...page=6&fpart=1

 

yup i was thinkin' about how i'd be worried i'd end up welding the bolt to the threads, but i guess it actually isn't as hard as i thought. I'ma try this some time

 

No welder unfortunatly. And yep, its broken off about a quarter inch into the head, just enough to not get it out and not to get a short bolt to start to thread and use instead, Id try an extractor but i couldn't get a manifold stud out of the other head to use before I found this one was broke off. I can never get enough (bite) on the bolt when using extractors.

 

you've gotta waste alot of time drilling a pilot hole before you even try to extract it, its really time extensive but without a welder its the only way. You might also wannna try heating up the studs you're trying to remove with a torch

 

If you can get it to a machine shop they can pop it out in a matter of minutes for a fee. In case you can't figure out how to pop it out yourself. Personally I would just spend the time and reverse tap it and then turn it out by hand.

 

any chance of you drilling it out? getting a close size drill bit and just drill it out? then tap a larger stud if anything?

 

If it continues to leak exhaust right at the head ports, it will eventually burn a valve. (burnt valve = chipped or broken valve and needs to be replaced by removing the cylinder head). You should fix it before it mushrooms.

 

There's a third method you can try, but I've only had success with this method when the broken stud is facing up because gravity plays a big part in this method, but it may work for you; who knows.


What you do is get a torch and heat the area up to around 200 degrees, then get a candle, crayon, or other wax item and shove it in the hole. As the wax melts, it will become so thin that it can actually fill the threads between the bolt and head. Once you do this, you can stick a small flat screwdriver in and work the bolt out because the wax acts as a lubricant.

 

I'm gonna try to extract it. I've always had bad luck in finding a good bit that will drill through a steel bolt. Just for the heck of it, ive had some work done in the past with a local mechanic here on my pos truck. Im gonna call him, maybe he has an easy, quick way to to do it with out being to expensive. Thanks everyone.

 

remember to use drill lube so it doesn't get too dull half way thru the job.

 

this is the safest way to do it, drill and tap.

after taping you must use thicker bolt.

i think the old bolt is 8-125 so you must tap to 10-150 (metric system)

ask for help if you havent done it again

 

the head is aluminum and the bolt is steel, any heating methods run the risk of warping the head unless somehow you figure out how to heat the entire head and engine uniformly without heating that broken stud.

Bottom lin. drill the stud and try to extract it with a bolt extractor, if you cant get it out, drill it out completely without hitting the threads and pick the threads out with a needle pick. if that doesnt work drill it the correct size for a heilicoil.

problem solved. if you dont want to take the head off to do this you may been to take out your radiator and fans to get the proper angle with the drill

 

If you still cant get the correct angle you could also probably undo the mounts and jack the engine up from the oil pan with a block of wood to protect the ool pan

 

Worked sat, pretty beat and having to do the dredded grocery shopping. I bought the extractor. I have a 90 degree drill(somewhere). I guess in the order of things, ill try the drill and extract, then, drill and retap, and possibly the helicoil like i mentioned in my number one post. This of course all depnds on how well, or not, the each step i try works. I just dont want to drill to deep. Hers a dumb question, how far do i drill and how do i make sure the metal shavings are coming out and not going in? Thanks again everyone.