So I have searched and searched online for an answer and cannot find any besides coming up with my own theories.

I have a boosted gsr running a Hondata COP unit. The car starts up and runs fine, BUT, around 7500 - 8000rpm it cuts out like hitting the rev limiter.

I have the battery relocated to the trunk and I think that may be my problem. The car turns over slow and I maxed out on fuel last year at 500.4whp with two(2) 255's, 2000cc and -6 feed line on e85.... doesn't seem right? So today I tested voltage. One pump is getting 13v, and I am getting around 14v to my fuse box... seems ok? BUT I have one ground off my battery and it's grounded to the back chassis area in the trunk... I was told later on this is not a good spot to ground.

On the dyno last year we took out the COP and put the stock dizzy in... same thing happened cutting out. So we added more grounds off the engine and the car seemed to "clear" up enough to tune.

Well, the car has been sitting now over winter and I can't seem where to go. I recently purchased a walbro 450lph pump to replace the two 255's and I purchased a relay to rewire the pump. My next plan is to move the batter back up front (maybe in the front bumper area) it's a track car, and running large sized battery cable.

To me it seems like a power/ground issue. Can someone please help me out here? Why is my COP cutting out up top? We tried different plugs, different gaps all the way down to .018". I talked to Hondata and they said since the car runs with the COP that it means it is hooked up correctly. But don't these individual coils require more power then a stock dizzy? Especially at higher rpms? I know I have a few things to try and I will soon. But I don't want to go at this blind and would like some input.

Thanks.

 

Anyone?

I just ordered 0 gauge welders cable for the battery. I also go some angle iron to make a mount for the battery in the front bumper.

If this doesn't work then I am out of ideas... Anyone have any similar issues?

Thanks,

 

I was recently breaking up in those same RPM's at the track. We looked at the data logs after the pass and it was the TPS sensor that took a dump. Got another TPS sensor on, calibrated it and its all good.

Not sure if that is your problem but maybe double check..

 

Thanks for the reply. I doubt it's a TPS on mine but I will not rule it out. When we switched back to the stock dizzy everything ran fine. Car revved out to 9k no problem. It was only when we had the hondata COP unit installed that we had issues.

 

1.) Something is wrong if you ran out of fuel with 2000cc injectors.
2.) What is the AFR leading up to and during the cut out event?
3.) What is the exact part number on the spark plugs you are using?
4.) Did it cut out with less boost?

 

A/F is around 10.5 WOT full boost. Up top it started to lean out on the dyno when we turned the boost up to go over 500whp so we stopped.

Not sure of the spark plugs atm.

And no, it cut out the same with any amount of boost. 1st gear it winds out, 2nd it cuts a little and 3rd and up it cuts out hard. Keep in mind this only happens with the COP. The COP requires more power to power individual coils instead of one. Right now my best guess is a wiring issue and that my fuel pumps are not re-wired to a relay.

I have a Fullblown AFPR, as well.

 

I've seen this issue. Car had a remanded dizzy, it kept breaking up in the high rpms at full boost. Put oem dizzy on and fixed the issue. Hondata CPR does not like anything but OEM dizzys.

 

As mentioned by seelback. Use an OEM distributor.
But also use OEM honda coils only!
Make sure you are using resistor style spark plugs properly gapped.
Make sure to check your wideband to make sure its reading correctly.
If the issue still exists, do a compression & leak down test to ensure the issue is not the engine.
Make sure all of your wiring connections & pins are making good contact etc.

 

Okay I will do that. Coils are OEM but the dizzy is not. I have an OEM dizzy that I will put in. Engine is fine, I just had it out a couple days ago (with the dizzy not COP) and it revved fine all the way to 9k in 4th no problem. Engine is strong, just built last spring and only about 1000 miles on it. Plugs are the correct type I made sure of that. I will try the dizzy and get the new battery cables wired in when they arrive.

Thanks.

 

I have been running the Hondata Coil on Plug on a 99 civic coupe race car for a couple of years. The cop has been on three different motors, (two B16's and one B18). It has been flawless on all of them. The B16's were capped at 9350 rpms and the B18 at 8400. The motor lived at redline.

There were never any cop cut out issues at those rpms. The few misfire issues I experienced were either fuel starve/delivery or vehicle speed speed sensor/ TPS.

The Hondata has been flawless and I can highly recommend it to anyone currently on a distributor based motor and on a Hondata S300 system.

 

If you haven't moved the battery yet. Just make a battery ground cable and run it all the way to the motor. Maybe even a couple of spots plus a ground in the engine compartment itself. I bet this may fix your problem.

 

I had this issue last summer. went through all wiring twice, checked all grounds, etc...
my harness was homemade and very old 1988 and had been through many modifications.
since replaced distributor with a genuine honda one and complete harness with a rywire swap harness. had it at the dyno sunday seems to be fixed I suspect it was the original autoline distributor.



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Using non-oem distributors with hondata cpr = bad idea

 

Gsralive is your problem consistent?


I've been having the same trouble will only go to about 5 then cut on occasion it's very in consistent problem. As well as many other users

I have oem dizzy, and oem coils , how would I tell if my tps is bad. It's reading on my s300 data logs.