So I'm in 3rd gear going about 35 in my crx ls swap and I start to pull on it and 4th wouldnt grab and the RPMs spiked to about 6.5k and after that the tach started bouncing like crazy and every time I would go to accelearate I would have to put it into a higher gear just to get it to go and it would still sputter and the tach would bounce but less enough to wear I could coast in neutral home. (thank god I was in the neighborhood.) I haven't began to tear into it yet because it is late here, just wondering if anyone had anyone thoughts/ideas as to what could be wrong.

 

check the spark plugs/wires/distrib cap/rotor.

i know i was messing around near my friends house takin the rpms up on purpose and all **** broke loose. when i pulled the plug wire, the actual boot was still in the cylinder. new set of wires and motor ran like a champ

 

Alright, gonna try that today. I got up this morning and fired it up and it would idle fine after the tach would bounce for a few then when I'd go to press the gas (in neutral) and it would hesitate and bog.

 

check to make sure your timing did not jump a tooth first.

2nd, if it idle fines then i would check fuel and spark. when revving the ecu controlls a/f and if it starts bogging as you gas then something is not up to par

 

It really sound like a missfire to me too ^^^^^^

 

If your tach is being jumpy, a sensor that i forgot its name in your distributor is going out. Time for a new distrubutor, hate to say it.

And the reason is if i remember correctly is that the sensor is built into the case

 

Are those 110$ ones on ebay any good?

 

If you are refering to a distributor, I'd get it at your local parts store like napa, oreillys or autozone. Anything with a lifetime warranty

 

haha if you're going to give someone advice please know what you're referring to especially when you're informing the person to replace a major component.

Have you looked into the issue any further unautomobiled?

 

Well obviously he asked for help and i helped him. If he needs the exact name of it, look it up yourself since you're wasting space.

How did i help you ask? Because most people here learn through trial and error. Meaning its happen to them before or somebody they know so we share the "fix" and then pretend were smart. If i dont know something obviously id say "thered be all sorts of possibilities".

And if you even searched, or put two things together. Obviously its the sensor that controls the Tachometer. Obviously my car was sputtering too.

Dont take my word for it. Waste your time with the dude that responds to useless crap that makes him feel cool.

While I decided to waste my time zooming through forums trying to help out of generousity of those who helped me.

Nah, i'm just trying to make the accord guy feel worse. Laters

 

Haha^^. My point is if you have done said research you would find that there may be multiple answers. You assumed the entire distributor needed replaced. Your answer does not conclude that you have been researching. There are an entire set of wires leading to the dist, many reasons why the tach may be jumping, bogging issues etc. Don't just answer to answer. Remember that what you say is your responsibility and people will hold you to it

 

If wires were bad youd be having bigger problems but still thats a big possibility as well. But none of us can be responsible for someone elses car that we cannot physically see or touch. We can only guide them. My answer was assuming that he took care of the car and didn't slice up wires. I had my crx for a decade and never had to replace any wires or fix any.

I helped a few buddies with the same problem, and guess what, one of them was an old accord having the sane symptoms. He replaced the dizzy and guess what.

 

Wires can and will have intermittent issues. Don't tell people to start replacing things. Recommend they inspect them. It worked on your buddies car, but this one is different.

 

Well thats life dude. Its all about trial and error. You either you get your hands dirty or go on the forum getting gang banged for not knowing things and hoping you find the answer. That being said, if you want to be perfect on everything, then i'd suggest learning automotive or try to help people before going into forum posts and picking out people who are trying to help

 

I'm sure I have more automotive experience and training than yourself. But that doesn't matter. I was looking out for you. You should never tell someone to replace things when you're uncertain. But I'm also probably a good ten years older than you. Have a good day

 

i stopped reading after the 2nd arguement post...

if you are going to replace ur distributor, i strongly suggest oem, because most aftermarket parts are remanufactured and it may take 1 or 2 before finally getting a good 1. that being said, you can go to advanced auto etc that offers 1-3yr warranties to give you some comfort room.

on the flip side, dont just go replacing parts. cap/rotor/plugs/wires, and see if your getting clean spark from all 4 wires, look at the contacts in the cap if they are black.. try and wiggle the distributor shaft bearing to see if theres any play.. the rotor itself may be chewed and oily.. oil may be inside the cap... a spark pug may be fouled...

take 30 minutes out of ur day and remove the 3 screws that hold the distributor cap on.. and just look at the contacts to see if any are black or chewed from arching. wiggle the shaft the rotor sits on.. and if u feel handy with a meter u can measure the coil pack/ignitor -.- doesnt hurt to go buy 10$ worth of spark plugs though if u dont know the last time they were done.... anything other then plugs i would never run out and buy based on guessing

 

^^ me too! Stopped reading every post that started off with a retort

The part in the distributor for tach is the igniter module.

 

Haha, correct my man. I had a buddy of mine whose been a tech over here in Tampa for Honda for a couple years now. We figured out it was the ICM.

 

With my lack of exp. I'm choosing to just get a new dizzy. That's where the new problem lies. I have to get a dizzy that's the same OBD as the ecu right? I haven't checked the code on my ECU yet but the stamp on my head is P75. Going to check the code on my ecu now.

 

if the tach is jumping everywhere and the motor isnt revving up to match, it's almost always the ignition module, very common issue, since the signal the tach uses is from that module, it randomly misfiring can cause this, if you want to get an aftermarket dizzy, look for a Richporter, they make new aftermarket ones, no remannned parts

 

The igniter. Get a new one immediately or your car will leave you stranded. This will fix both problems.

EDIT: I see you're set on spending way more money for a new dizzy, so I'll let you know that I've had mixed experiences with Distributor King dizzies. they are the only one that I've bought 'new' and I don't recommend anything other than replacing the igniter (ignition module) unless your dizzy is making a God-awful noise due to bad bearings. Autozone carries the igniter for around $50 in my area.

 

just get the distributor to make the year/engine. but yes it needs to be the correct obd

 

Checked my ecu and its a PM6 and I read that it was OBD0. So I order the TD23 dizzy since the connections were the round ones like I currently have instead of the rectangular connections, which I assume is OBD2 or something. I did notice some oil/gunk around the grommet where the wires for the 7 plug connection comes out of the bottom of the dizzy and around that region just south of the grommet where it looked like some oil had dripped/gunked up. Also tried looking for the part number stamp/sticker and found nothing (no stamp=not OEM?) so I'm thinking its an ebay/reman already

 

umm........ td23u and td24u is the distribs for a b18a1 obd0 non vtec... not sure ur motor buuuuuttt... make sure its correct

 

the oil buildup is most likely from an old o-ring on the part of the dizzy that connects to the camshaft. If you buy a new dizzy, it will have a new seal and you won't need to worry about it. Or you could buy a new o-ring at Honda if you just get a igniter.

What is your engine code?

Be extra careful to turn the input shaft the correct way when installing. The dizzy will only go in flush in the correct position. If you cant get it flush by hand, pull it back out and rotate the shaft 180 degrees. Also, try your best to bolt it in at the correct 'angle' for timing. It seems like this is all pretty new to you, so it may be best for you to have a shop set your distributor timing afterwards. They will use a timing light that connects to your spark plug wires.