Enigine Mechanical and Ignition timing help
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Enigine Mechanical and Ignition timing help
So I got a 1994 Prelude Si with a H23 engine, the engine was making a pinging noise under load and she had a loss in power at operating temp. I checked the ignition timing with a timing light and the timing was too advanced, so I moved the dizzy down until I started to see the marks through the hole on the block over where it says "H23A1", Well I got it as close as it's going to get and it still could be way better but the dizzy won't move anymore, when the light flashes the I can see the red mark still not aligned with the arrow thing on the block . The engine no longer pings and has power back, but she still accelerates slow and I know the timing is the culprit. When I got the car the shady owner said it had a new head, there was marks on the camshafts and the head looks really clean if you take out the valve cover and the timing belt looked new, so I believed it. A little while after I had some guy check my timing, and he moved the dizzy and the engine idle got really low and when I tried to start the car it didn't start anymore. The arrow on the exhaust camshaft didn't line up with the intake one, so I had a friend of my dad's fix it. The timing belt slipped off and he forced it back on the camshaft, It flaps now, but it runs and starts and idk if the timing belt it stretched or could be off a few teeth or the bottom half of the engine is not timed correctly that could be why the timing marks on the flexplate don't line up? the timing belt flaps on the left side and if I take off the valve cover and press down on the belt it seems pretty tight, And the engine still runs rough.
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Re: Enigine Mechanical and Ignition timing help
You have to slip a paperclip into the blue service connector to disable the ecu from messing with the timing while you're setting base ignition timing. The distributor should be somewhere around the halfway point in terms of up and down adjustment. It's going to be slightly down below the halfway, to be more specific.
Checking mechanical timing is fairly easy. You just turn the crank counterclockwise until the 0 mark on the flywheel is between the two block peakhole marks. Then the cam arrows should both be facing up and there should be two lines, one at 3 o'clock and one at 9 o'clock at each cam, in line with the head/timing cover.
If they don't line up then mechanical timing is off.
Checking mechanical timing is fairly easy. You just turn the crank counterclockwise until the 0 mark on the flywheel is between the two block peakhole marks. Then the cam arrows should both be facing up and there should be two lines, one at 3 o'clock and one at 9 o'clock at each cam, in line with the head/timing cover.
If they don't line up then mechanical timing is off.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
Re: Enigine Mechanical and Ignition timing help
You have to slip a paperclip into the blue service connector to disable the ecu from messing with the timing while you're setting base ignition timing. The distributor should be somewhere around the halfway point in terms of up and down adjustment. It's going to be slightly down below the halfway, to be more specific.
Checking mechanical timing is fairly easy. You just turn the crank counterclockwise until the 0 mark on the flywheel is between the two block peakhole marks. Then the cam arrows should both be facing up and there should be two lines, one at 3 o'clock and one at 9 o'clock at each cam, in line with the head/timing cover.
If they don't line up then mechanical timing is off.
Checking mechanical timing is fairly easy. You just turn the crank counterclockwise until the 0 mark on the flywheel is between the two block peakhole marks. Then the cam arrows should both be facing up and there should be two lines, one at 3 o'clock and one at 9 o'clock at each cam, in line with the head/timing cover.
If they don't line up then mechanical timing is off.
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