Context: I bought an EH9 cuz I missed my accord (also an EX), quickly grew tired of the auto tragic and searched for 2 months for a decent, cheap, DX coupe. I realized a shell, although inexpensive, wasn't actually cheap due to towing expense (truck's harness melted). I decided I would buy one that's motor was on the way out instead.

engine problem:
I bought my DX coupe, the D1.5 w/ 130k and a misfire in cyl #3. *edit* it burns oil significantly, when its cold it smokes alot. That's why I believe its a mechanical problem, besides what the Previous owner told me. The previous owner said he had a mechanic look at it, used a bore scope and said there's a burnt exhaust valve. Who knows if this is a true story tho, right bro? The piston rings could be ffuccckked and I'm not rebuilding the 1.5

so as I see it, I have 2 & 1/2 options.

1: my options to fix the engine
unbolt the head, replace the valve(s) and associated hardware if that is indeed the issue, put all new seals in, and do a head gasket and a timing belt job.

1.5: buy a good head with good valves, reseal that, and do the head gasket and timing belt job.

2: hope I can milk the engine, avoid inspection, and swap in a better USDM engine that I won't feel so bad fixing. Maybe a GSR, B18b, or a b16a. I sorta like the b16a idea since that's a good setup to make an LS/b20 vtec. That would give me a chance to build the short block.

 

I was thinking about it, is there any way to tell the difference between oil burn/misfire from piston rings and a head problem? I dont have any interest in rebuilding this block I'd rather build a 1.8 block if anything

 

Leak down test is usually a way to discern top end from bottom end problems.

Wet compression test too but it's less definitive.

 

Vacuum gauge.





eH.

 

Is there a way I can tell from looking at it with the oil pan off, like looking at the cylinder walls or something?