Just swapped a b18c into my "eg" hatch. Using p28 don't know of chipped or not, since the previous owner hacked the original wiring I integrated vtec and also knock (just in case) back again into what seems to be a obd2 harness (the wiring has crank sensor not the block)

After fixing some junk wiring previous swap owner had I'm Only throwing Code 9 /:
Bought a new distributor and still code 9.

I will check using d15 ecu tomorrow to see if that clears the code: researched and some guy posted if cel light goes off it could be the ecu or harness something like that *edit-did not try this*

Also going to check ohms later tomorrow and post. It's my daily, I'm trying to get it back on the road drives ok but I panic at the sight of the "cel"
car sounds like small vacuum leak at red lights im pretty sure its not and its doing that due to the code

[B]THINGS RULED OUT:
a) using p28 ecu obd1: cant be Crank Sensor (unless someone experienced tells me otherwise) so i didnt do the ckf bypass
b) bought new distributor still code 9, old distributor cyp sensor looked fine no cracks some red dust on rotor but thats it so im returning new dizzy to get me my 300 rooniies! (input on this anyone?) *edit-can't return electronic engine parts back to oreillys or autozone I tried *

c) **** 200v setting ohms at distributor plug cypp and cypg together read .040
200v setting ckpp and ckpg read .401
TDC reads at .791 does this mean ecu is bad? cyp is giving me super low number
****

*****edit- Readings where taken at harness near distributor at shock tower and lastly on ecu pins as typed below

Readings were constant so no leaks in the harness

Cylinder position sensor
B11+b12= 0.000 ohms **Edit- was taking voltage reading not ohms**

Top dead center read
B13+b14= 0.780 ohms

Rpm read
B15+b16= 0.401 ohms

My estimated guess is bad ecu

Can anyone confirm this?***

useful info pertaining to car:
obd1 dx automatic hatch chassis converted to manual still using obd1 ecu plugs
p28 ecu (not sure if mapped)
obd2 (1997 gsr head ) block has no crank sensor
using what seems to be obd2 engine wire harness
odb2 distributor

 

Give this thread a read for diagnostic process.

 

thanks i have researched many pages some guys just change ecus and done... some just change distibutors and done..
i cant find another obd1 p72 ecu here in south california near the border so i have to try everything else.

the harness i have has a crank sensor connection but i dont think the P28 ecu is chipped to run as obd2 ( i only have one O2 sensor and i get no O2 code)
so i dont think that the crank sensor is the problem. any more imput guys?

going to try reading ohms today. i will post my findings and put them on the first post so anyone can see them easily.

any help is appreciated... i have worked hard for this swap did it by myself no spoonfeeding converted from auto to manual (changed oem manual bracket) the whole deal. please i appreciate any help

 

looked for continutiy at the shock towers and distributor plugs everything seems good
when connected using the cables near the distributor
grounds with ground beeps
positives to ground no beep


looks like my obd2 CKPP and CKPG wiring is swithced with my CYPP AND CYPG wires going to switch them to see whats up
OBD2 ckpp is yellow
ckpg is black

OBD1 ckpp is blue/green stripe
ckpg is blue/yellow stripe

OBD2 cypp is blue
cypg is white

OBD1 cypp is orange
cypg is white


on the shock towers they were criss-crossed changing them righttttt......NOW

 

Switched wires car cranks
but doesnt turn on?

man, there has to be someone on here that can help...

changing wires back to how they were
:/
car runs but with code 9 again
**Edit: cables are connected to wrong color but it is all continuous (meaning they all go where they suppose to just wire changes color)**


200v setting ohms at distributor plug one probe on cypp and another probe on cypg together read .040!!?!?!?!
200v setting one probe on ckpp and the other on ckpg read .401
TDC reads at .791

 

cyp is giving me a lower number is my ecu bad?

 

Bump
is ecu bad
or is distributor bad?

 

http://www.justanswer.com/honda/22w6...m-running.html

 

thanks im onto it, everyone seems to quit before resolving it...
cyp=.04 so bad housing im guessing
going to try new distributor again if not taking it back to see if its defected

 

I testes cyp harness conector and got .040 with old distributor
Then i got sporatic readings with the new distributor from 0.000 to like .800
does this mean ecu is bad or distributor
I tested from the wire harness connectors

Im confused im really trying My Cousin printed out diagrams for me aswell lol. Once its fixed I'm pretty sure I'll slap myself for something simple. Going to stick prongs in the ecu itself later today I'll post readings

 

Easy mistake on the distributor wiring is to switch the blue and DARK blue wires.

I would get shop manuals from www.hondahookup.com and do your own interchange diagram for distributor wires.

 

Everyone seems to quit because we're not there to troubleshoot electrical issues. That task ain't easy to describe something over the net. The only thing I can say is to make sure that each wire on the distributor needs to be check going back to the ecu, meaning check for continuity from "a" wire on distributor to where "a" wire is suppose to be on the ecu.

 

I appreciate all the comments
Suggestions and tips.

Traced back to the ecu.. B11 orange wire and b12 white wire I believe have no reading coming directly from the ecu..

So this means ecu is busted correct

 

Readings where taken at harness near distributor at shock tower and lastly on ecu pins as typed below

Readings were constant so no leaks in the harness

Cylinder position sensor
B11+b12= 0.000 ohms

Top dead center read
B13+b14= 0.780 ohms

Rpm read
B15+b16= 0.401 ohms

My estimated guess is bad ecu

Can anyone confirm this?

 

Post a picture of your multimeter showing how it as set to make these^ Ohm readings.

 

Sure will Ron I'm on my phone won't be able till tomorrow
Can you confirm if this means bad ecu?

 

Unlikely

 

Can't confirm **** from here.

 

Here's pretty much what i did
On 200v setting in my multimeter I touched red prong to cypp b11 on ecu
And black prong to cypg b12 on ecu
With key to on position.
Didnt use harness i used the actual ecu board. If you take off the conections from the ecu There are male pins sticking out of the ecu itself, thats what i read from. here are the locations for each pin. Ill post My pics later
http://b16a2.kicks-***.net/diy/pgmfi...FI-pins1-2.jpg

 

You did the test incorrectly.

1) Post a picture of your multimeter.

2) Turn the key off and disconnect the battery connectors.

3) To do a resistance (Ohm) test, you do not set the multimeter to read voltage.

4) The Ohm test at B11 and B12 is done on the female pins in ECU connector B, not the ECU itself.

 

lol.. great :/
ok here is my multimeter set up wrong http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps486be2fc.jpg

and how i tested it. I just find it funny how im getting no reading from those two but got readings for the other distributor sensor ecu pins

this is b11+b12 cylinder position
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1396450937

rpm b15+b16
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1396450939

tdc same thing just reading was .780

going to do your steps right now, setting meter to 20k ohms; do i disconnect ecu and read the female side?

 

Your picture does not allow one to see how your multimeter was set. Post a clear piture of your multimeter.

 

meter set to 20v http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps486be2fc.jpg

 

So do you now understand that your meter is set incorrectly in the picture and how it should be set?

 

yes ron thanks i set it to 20k ohms this time and the distributor reads .37 (ohms this time) on all 3 sensors

i did the same thing on female ecu plug-b and they read .36 ohms
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1396457621
i used extra wire so i can make contact these wires dont touch eachother or anything else to give me false reading checked it 4 times

i did the same thing on the strut tower connectors engine harness side that connects to distributor read .37 ohms
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1396457603

when i use the meter on the cyp orange and white wires that go through the firewall, they read a high number like 9.6xx ohms when ecu is connected and if ecu is not connected the meter doesnt move at all just stays the same
i dont know what that means? ill take a pic right now

here it is ecu connected
http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1396459206