I built one of these head light air intake things since I was super bored this weekend I was just curious if they actually help with ET/HP. I will only be using it on the track. I used a 5" velocity stack to 4" dryer hose to a 4" intake pipe that reduces to 3" I believe that goes to my 70mm throttle body.

I just went to home depot bought some sheet medal (planned on just enclosing front end) then decided to cut out some medal in the shape of a light drilled a 4" hole built some mounting brackets and bam! LOL

Car setup is
1994 Civic Si
h22a
Evolution H2B KIT
PRO 1 Cam
Crower Valve train
Pro series cam gears
Pro series high comp valves
Skunk 2 intake mani
70mm pro series TB
Tri y h2b header to a 3" collector
3" Doug’s performance electric cutout
Type r tranny
550 RC injectors
Walbro 255
E85 fuel
215/60/14 Mickey Thompson ET Street II
NX Express Proton Kit jetted for 100 Wet shot
NEPTUNE Engine Management
Stock suspension

I plan on getting the car dialed in at the track and get some consistent 60fts before spraying.

Car was street tuned by a friend and made 221whp/156wtq on a mustang dyno NA

Car was then street tuned on e85 recently but haven’t been to the dyno since so don’t know what the gains are yet. The car is different for sure. You can feel the difference in torque but who knows.

Anyone have any ideas on what kind of ETs to expect?

Also what are some people launching at on the track with a drag radial?
On the street 3800 seems to do well but i know that probably won’t cut it on a prepped surface. Probably just bog down.

 

Obviously you will have to play with the launch to find the sweet spot. My friend had a h22 swap and I have a 82x89 b18 and we both launch in the neighborhood of 6k-7k on 22x8 slicks if that helps you get an idea of where you might want to start.

 

oh wow that high!? well sweet thanks now i no where to start i was thinking like 5k or so. my slicks are pretty much 23.5x8

 

You will have to any around d with your rpm as well as tire pressure. There is no way to know exactly what works for you without trial and error.

 

my ~230whp k20a would dead hook on a 7800 rpm launch with 23's. 5k will be way too low.

 

Stopped taking your question seriously when you said you installed "dryer hose" on your car.....

 

alright gotcha! sounds like i'll be starting at 6k and move on up along with adjusting air pressure as well. atleast i have a starting point.

thanks!

 

oh really why is that? it worked.. i was going to buy one offline that wasnt a "dryer hose" but they wanted $40 or something and then i could only find 3".

The dryer hose worked perfectly and i needed something adjustable that bended. plus $4 at home depot.. whatever works right??

 

so if he had said corrugated tubing instead of dryer hose it would have kept you happy? c'mon ppl grow up, dude just wants to go racing! as for the op, im positive your intake will yield you gains there have been plenty of ppl in this forum with proof of that. but you have to go to the track and data log, then go through the data logs with your tuner.

 

i have since changed the intake thing. it worked but eventually got holes. i bought a new and shrink wrapped it and it seemed to be doing well!i moved the intake down in the bumper so i could still drive at night on the way home from the track seems to work well! took out the car to race wars here it wa this past weekend car ran great!

 

just because people are launching at over 5k doesnt mean they are launching at wot.


although in the NA field, they might be....i dont know.



i know i cant come out the hole even at half throttle...but that could be because im not on slicks..........yet.

 

so for you which one works better ??(mph/et wise)
the one through the head light or the one down the bumper ??

 

When I did my velocity stack intake I bought a bunch of pieces from vibrant in 3.5" and some couplers and the stack and played with the length and bends on the dyno for a few hours. I learned a lot in how the graph will change and how much bends and length affects the hp and the shape of the graph. There is a lot to be had by tuning your intake on the dyno if you and your tuner have the time to do so. The above setup with the three transitions to the throttle body will hurt flow, you are better off with a 60 or so degree bend off the throttle body and straight out to the headlight, or behind the headlight if you are keeping it as a street setup.

A buddy had his car tuned with an AEM 3" cold air, the ITR one on his GSR and just for fun we took my intake off and threw it on his car after his was fully tuned. The V stack intake made 10 more pretty much everywhere on the graph and more in the midrange. Every setup is different but ours was pretty similar and made hp with this intake. So $200 in vibrant fab parts and three hours of dyno time.......well worth it in the end.