So to start here is a list of what I have done and why.

Used JDM 1.6 SOHC Non-VTEC Engine put in, with 6 month warranty - Old engines rings were fried.

New Throttle Body for the DPFI - Old one had bad injectors, bad dash pots and a bad TPS, cheaper to get the whole TB

New MAP - Just for Troubleshooting's sake

New IACV - Old one leaked air

New Distributor - ECU was throwing code 4 for CPS - Fixed that issue

New Plugs and Wires

New PCV

New Fuel Pump, Screen and Filter

New Timing Belt and Water Pump - Timing is set right as far as I can tell, hard to tell for sure with a surging idle

Replaced and checked that all vacuum hoses were routed correctly

NO VACUUM LEAKS - Check with carb cleaner and a propane enrichment kit.

Coolant is air bubble free


Basically, put on the new throttle body because of all its issues and I was running rich enough to put out white smoke, When I started her up now, much less smoke, but still a lil white smoke, and it idles damn near unpredictably,usually going between 700 and 2k, rising slowly to 2k and then rapidly dropping to 650-700, sometimes it will stably idle low,and run like crap almost bogging out, sometimes just dying completely. It always sounds as if its struggling to run at lower rpms, anything under 850-900 rpm sounds like crap and runs rich as hell (enough for small puffs of white smoke and a bad smell ) That is just a small list of what I replaced, damn near everything in the car is new minus the body and interior, and I am at my wits end trying to figure it out.

 

Did you clean the iacv?

Did you adjust the idle?

 

As said above, new IACV, and yes I've tried several times, with no avail

 

Did you check the voltage coming out of the TPS?

 

U might need to switch ecu just to see. Did u have a previous motor running good on this ecu?

 

Also, check your fuel pressure. If the return hose or fuel pressure regulator is blocked or restricted it will cause a lot of the symptoms you describe. I believe the pressure should be between 40-50psi at idle, maybe less?

 

Not sure if this will help, but I had similar problems with my car; it started fine, then as it warmed up, bogged down, and died. It was running really rich and had white smoke coming out of the muffler. I finally fixed it by changing my intake manifold gasket as well as cleaning all the old gasket off. I also changed the little tube from the air intake hose to the valve cover since it seemed to be bent and restricting the air. I'm not sure which of these fixed my problem, but as soon as I started my hatch, it ran perfectly. It is still running strong after 6 months.

 

I have tried swapping ECU's, the old motor ran good with it other than heavy smoke due to bad rings, I replaced the intake mani. gasket when I swapped engines, I will check the fuel pressure as soon as I get the chance and post the results, Voltage coming from tps is within range

 

Try this, after you have checked your coolant level, and bled air.

1. Adjust the throttle plate. I did this with the throttle body removed. Set it just beyond fully closed. When I did mine I noticed a sticking sensation between the plate and walls of the throttle body when the plate was closed all the way. I set mine just beyond this position. Use a fresh gasket.

2. TPS. Throttle Position Sensor. You will need a multimeter for this.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/diy-how-calibrating-voltage-your-tps-sensor-2947986/

3. Set Idle. Warm up engine. Unplug EACV. Set idle, screw on throttle body, approximately two turns out. Turn engine off. Plug in EACV. Reset ECU. Start engine without touching gas pedal, wait for engine to settle. Turn engine off. Start engine again to check idle.

Final word, each one of these steps may take a few attempts, but in the end you will feel like a powerball winner.

 

I will try that tomorrow morning video_voide, also, can anyone tell me which line is the fuel return line? as well as where the fuel pressure regulator is on the DPFI setup,im not quite sure and I think it is built into the TB

 

Quick update, If I even try to put her in gear she loses all power and the engine dies.

I might have to tow her into a shop today

 

Bump?

I'm just looking for ideas as to what it could be.

 

Dang, not sure either man. Did you do a compression test, and leak down test?

White smoke is indicating oil is burning in the cylinders, and if it smells bad. Maybe coolant but youd smell a sweet smell.

Check your timing, and maybe check out the dizzy

Also grab a vaccum diagram for your engine and car and make sure everything is good. You never know

 

Done a compression check, its 150 across all cylinders, also the motor has less than 60k on it

 

Check and set your MECHANICAL timing. That means line up the timing mark on the crank pulley with the timing marks on the cam pulley. I had an Si that was 2 teeth off and the idle hunted like that.


Step 1



Step 2

 

You have a vacuum leak. Sorry to tell you but you didnt check good enough.

 

My Timing is fine all around, and I do not have any vacuum leaks, none, I found a burnt wire in my harness and am replacing it and all other affected wires as I type, who takes advice from a guy named welfarepc?

 

Not sure if this will help, but it's something to look over again if you missed something.

New parts don't always mean they work.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/how-fix-your-idleing-woes-fitv-iacv-2153910/

 

lol

says the guy who's car can't idle for shat

 

Laserjock, just because my car can't idle right doesn't make what welfarepc said any less idiotic, and nicknack, I have tried 2 new EACVs and they were both good, I'm quite sure it is the burnt through wires causing this, but I can still be wrong, taught me a lesson about buying used cars without checking the wiring harness first.

also, I had my timing and everything checked at a shop, both the mechanical and ignition timing are correct, and compression across all cylinders is 150 give or take 5 psi. and a guarantee that there are no vacuum leaks.

 

bump?

 

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