Friend's NXed 2001 Accord
My friend just got his nitrous Express kit... we started with the 35 shot... every once in a while there is a pop coming from the engine bay (only happens when it shifts) this is also an automatic accord lx. When we put the 55 shot in with Zex colder plugs, it does it every time between 1st and second... is this poping his transmission or an intake packfire or what?
Thanks guys.
p.s. are there any other precautions we should take when running the 55 shot other than the Zex turbo/nitrous plugs?
Thanks guys.
p.s. are there any other precautions we should take when running the 55 shot other than the Zex turbo/nitrous plugs?
whats with these 'zex' branded plugs??? how much do they even cost?
whats wrong with just putting in colder NGK's like I do?
whats wrong with just putting in colder NGK's like I do?
He puts premium in his car... would less octane be the result of an intake backfire? or were you saying 92 octane as a precaution?
wow thats about $16.00 too much for me. I'll stick to my NGK's.
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I'm going to tell you right now ive been using nitrous (Nitrous Express) kit on my 91 LX for 3 years almost. I have run ZFR7F and ZFR6F's depending on how much I spray. I have run 50-125 nozzles (being bored) and my car is still here to talk about it.
All this 'wonder' **** Zex has out is bunk IMO and you can keep it. I believe Nitrous Express has the best kit out there and you couldnt convince me otherwise. Just take a peek at their solenoids sometime.
NGK's rule of thumb is 1 step colder for every 50-100hp added on top of the engine or some such. I sometimes I have gone one below that even, but at the same time, a plug must be hot enough to reach a point where it has enough retained heat to self-clean.
All this 'wonder' **** Zex has out is bunk IMO and you can keep it. I believe Nitrous Express has the best kit out there and you couldnt convince me otherwise. Just take a peek at their solenoids sometime.
NGK's rule of thumb is 1 step colder for every 50-100hp added on top of the engine or some such. I sometimes I have gone one below that even, but at the same time, a plug must be hot enough to reach a point where it has enough retained heat to self-clean.
He puts premium in his car... would less octane be the result of an intake backfire? or were you saying 92 octane as a precaution?
dont hammer me, i've had the kit a lot longer than your friend.
I take this from NX's own site:
Q.What is nitrous backfire?
A. Nitrous backfires can be caused by two situations. 1. A nitroussystem that is
toorich or a system that atomizes the fuel poorly, thus causing pooling orpuddling
offuel in the intake manifold. 2. A system that is operated toolean
describe your friends setup to us.. did he invest in a FPR or ??
[Modified by GimpyAccord, 2:06 AM 10/30/2002]
I'm going to tell you right now ive been using nitrous (Nitrous Express) kit on my 91 LX for 3 years almost. I have run ZFR7F and ZFR6F's depending on how much I spray. I have run 50-125 nozzles (being bored) and my car is still here to talk about it.
All this 'wonder' **** Zex has out is bunk IMO and you can keep it. I believe Nitrous Express has the best kit out there and you couldnt convince me otherwise. Just take a peek at their solenoids sometime.
NGK's rule of thumb is 1 step colder for every 50-100hp added on top of the engine or some such. I sometimes I have gone one below that even, but at the same time, a plug must be hot enough to reach a point where it has enough retained heat to self-clean.
All this 'wonder' **** Zex has out is bunk IMO and you can keep it. I believe Nitrous Express has the best kit out there and you couldnt convince me otherwise. Just take a peek at their solenoids sometime.
NGK's rule of thumb is 1 step colder for every 50-100hp added on top of the engine or some such. I sometimes I have gone one below that even, but at the same time, a plug must be hot enough to reach a point where it has enough retained heat to self-clean.
meah. my accord is biodegrading in storage. if its still alive when i return from japan ill go NGKs.
meah. my accord is biodegrading in storage. if its still alive when i return from japan ill go NGKs.
and im not sayin the Zex product is ****, but its definatly not 23.00 good IMO
(note the IMO)
as opposed to 1.25 NGK's i replace every 3-4 months anyway
[Modified by GimpyAccord, 2:10 AM 10/30/2002]
meah. my accord is biodegrading in storage. if its still alive when i return from japan ill go NGKs.
how is Japan??
and im not sayin the Zex product is ****, but its definatly not 23.00 good IMO
(note the IMO)
as opposed to 1.25 NGK's i replace every 3-4 months anyway
how is Japan??
and im not sayin the Zex product is ****, but its definatly not 23.00 good IMO
(note the IMO)
as opposed to 1.25 NGK's i replace every 3-4 months anyway
Still in eau claire......
Leave for japan in january, get back in June. I need to finish my semester at UWEC. The accord has been in stored since the beginning of this month. I have no use for it at school and I dont drive it in the winter. I won't see it till June.
My winter beater on the other hand....that lil guy kicks ***..
His car:
2001 accord lx (auto
)
Short Ram Intake
DC 4-2-1 Header
Greddy EVO exhaust
Nitrous kit
he has no other fuel upgrades... should he get a FPR or something else? This only happens when he shifts... at no other time has there been knocking, popping, or anything else... just that pop between 1st and 2nd.
2001 accord lx (auto
)Short Ram Intake
DC 4-2-1 Header
Greddy EVO exhaust
Nitrous kit
he has no other fuel upgrades... should he get a FPR or something else? This only happens when he shifts... at no other time has there been knocking, popping, or anything else... just that pop between 1st and 2nd.
ummmmmmmmmmmmmmm... well its all kinda hard to say. My exp with OBDII Accords is: 0. Sounds like its doing as NX says, I'd start lookin at the fuel delivery direction.
I run a B&M FPR @ 46-48psi. Factory is like 39-42 I think, now this can cause some other problems too... so when im just running around town I back it down a tad otherwise I tend to foul plugs and bog a bit on the bottom. My methods are compleatly unscientific and only work for me, so if you blow up his car don't blame me. Only way to really do it right is to get the car on a dyno with a wideband O2 and tune it to a good air fuel ratio... Have you followed him to see if his car is puffing black smoke or anything when he hits it?
I'd almost suggest taking the timing back a tad (I have a Crane HI-6+fireball coil) but with a 2001 you're kinda screwed on that
[Modified by GimpyAccord, 10:40 AM 10/30/2002]
I run a B&M FPR @ 46-48psi. Factory is like 39-42 I think, now this can cause some other problems too... so when im just running around town I back it down a tad otherwise I tend to foul plugs and bog a bit on the bottom. My methods are compleatly unscientific and only work for me, so if you blow up his car don't blame me. Only way to really do it right is to get the car on a dyno with a wideband O2 and tune it to a good air fuel ratio... Have you followed him to see if his car is puffing black smoke or anything when he hits it?
I'd almost suggest taking the timing back a tad (I have a Crane HI-6+fireball coil) but with a 2001 you're kinda screwed on that
[Modified by GimpyAccord, 10:40 AM 10/30/2002]
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