car- 99 ek4 sedan jdm
engine- b16a4 stock obd2 with y21 tranny
ecu- stock jdm obd2 ecu

hey guys, so my cel light was on so not vtec. did a scan and the O2 sensor was bad. i changed it and immediately cel went off. took it for spin hoping for vtec. no vtec. i resist the ecu and took it for a drive. still no vtec.

i checked the following

1 oil level is on mark
2 wired the vtec solenoid and its clicking
3 no cel light


any help and suggests on this

 

When you took it for a drive, you let the car heat up first, right?

 

Also is the car all stock? Is this a real ek4?

 

Its O2 sensor not H2O = water .
1. Oil level (checked)
2. Solenoids (checked)
3. Restart ECU (checked)

Are you sure it was the O2 sensor? Can you tell me the reading of your O2 sensor you may be running rich, ecu will not open VTEC if running rich. Have you checked oil pressure, you may have oil leak causing low pressure. When you check VTEC engine must be hot, you must have exact oil pressure, you must be moving it will not open in neutral gear, you must reach specific rotation, you must have no CEL's and proper fuel/air mixure. I hope i helped i'm facing similar problem at the moment.

 

Are you sure VTEC doesn't engage? It may not be obvious.

 

yes i did.


yep real ek4 bro. i like in trinidad and tobago- lucky to us jdm hondas are only available

 

sorry for the typo, it happens to the best of us.

when the cel light was on before and i did a scan it a bad O2 senor showed up. i replaced it with an oem one. cel light came of. i am also did a scan again and nothing came up.
with regards to the oil leaks, i have none.

so from here im beat as to whats the reason

 

why would you say this?

 

I'd hook up a test light to see if vtec is engaging.

 

i did this earlier and the ecu is not sending the signal (edited)

 

compared to an eg9 i previously owned it was heard clearly and loudly. this car only has a short ram and power getter axle back.

im sure if it was engaging i would have heard some change in tone. correct me if im wrong

 

Provide more details about how this^ test was done.

VTEC engagement generally is not a "punch you in the face" obvious event. It can be missed.

 

used a test light and extended wires. negative ground to battery terminal and positive tapped into the vtec solenoid wire. the extended wires connected to the test light and placed into the car with hood closed. buddy of mines held it. and we drove the car around for approx 20mins. double checked connects and drove the car for vtec engagement.
no voltage was being sent, we then disconnected the test light and used a volt meter and still nothing

 

Given that your battery is clearly okay, this^ only tells me that there was a problem with your rigged power and ground wires from the battery.

By the way, the VTEC solenoid and pressure switch each get voltage from the ECU. The solenoid grounds locally whereas the pressure switch grounds on the thermostat housing.

 

You couldn't run those connections inside the car you had to wire it to the battery and the solenoid? Wire it to the ecu and ground that bitch to some bolt.

 

highly doubt it, one wire from ground terminal leading straight inside the car same goes for the vtec solenoid wire.

took direct from the battery ground because the solenoid is already ground, a solenoid had no polarity so the vtec solenoid uses a positive signal from the ecu. if there was any voltage being sent from the ecu it would have be shown by the test night and if it was too low the voltmeter would have shown the voltage


i stand to be corrected

 

Draw a picture how your rigged the battery wire(s) to the VTEC solenoid and where the test light probes were placed. The more detailed the information you provide, the more quickly a solution can be found.

I understood your previous post to say that you ran both power and ground wires from the battery. You also did not indicate where the test light probes were placed.

 

pictures of the ecu, ecu code and ecu plugs

 

The dude has a B16 with a short ram. Beethoven can probably hear his VTEC from his grave. It's EXTREMELY obvious when the cam changes. Think of the most obvious thing you've ever heard. B16 VTEC is more obvious than that.

Anyway...OP...is the car fully warmed up when you're trying this? Does your CEL work? Sorry if that's been covered.

The fact that you changed the O2 sensor and that the light went off right away on a OBD2 ECU without resetting it sounds like an issue. OBD2 ECUs remember everything. Like some sort of angry girlfriend.

 

The guys getting on it to verify vtec, so yes its probably warmed up. What I'm trying to do is verify what version obd2 and what ecu he's running and why? Is it wrong to dig deeper to find the answer?

 

You obviously didn't read that he had a cel for o2 sensor.

 

What does the O2 sensor have to do with anything? The car is in open loop when you floor it.

 

 

He said he drove it around. He never said it was warmed up. A dead thermostat can cause the car not to warm up for a long time.

His O2 sensor light reset itself? Sounds crazy. EK's are all OBD2, arent they? That's why I'm asking if his CEL is working.

 

I don't believe that any O2 sensor CEL code would prevent VTEC engagement.