i know its not necessary but i like the look so just wondering if some one has done it before and what was needed for the work thanks for feedback

 

If you swap the subframe from a non-DC2 you won't have any issues running rear subframe braces. In this case you would actually benefit from a subframe brace.

 

nobody makes a subframe brace for the itr subframe, so you would need to heavily mod one for a regular integra

 

alright thanks for the help i just don't like the look of the stock subframe i guess ill just put up with it lol

 

I thought comptech made a lower bar that went in the same location as the one on the ITR?

 

yes comptech does make a tie bar but that's different then what op is looking for ..op wants a asr or equivalent subframe brace.. a large piece that covers the whole rear subframe and reinforces it for a large rear sway bar as to not get subframe tear out

 

Fixed dat for you.



Player.

 

Swapping sub frames is a serious undertaking and not worth the effort in the slightest. If you are concerned about the appearance you can paint the sub frame black, get F7 LCA's and a Beaks tie bar and call it good.

 

Perhaps one of these with a set of Skunk2 lca's?

 

If you're just going for looks, you could always get a Beaks bar on there. That's of course not to some people's tastes but that's about as close as you can get. I prefer no flashy stuff down in the Integra's nether regions because who really looks down there? Lol

 

people that see my tail light well I'm just going for a clean look and polished subframe is 100 times cleaner than black one by all means I'm not trying to go for looks over function subframe braces help your stock one so it doesn't tear out or crack so just wondered if there was a special brand that made some for itrs.

 

You keep talking about tear outs. Do you not understand that the ITR subframe is thicker?

 

^^^^^!!

 

The DC2R chassis does not require a rear sub-frame brace. Many owners run a 26mm solid rear sway bar on the stock sub-frame without issue. That is why no one makes a rear sub-frame brace for the ITR.

 

<- This guy.

 

Yup ^^^^.

On my last ITR I ran the ASR 32mm bar... roughly double the stiffness of the 26mm m00gen bar. It didn't tear out either.

If you want bling, maybe spray bomb the subframe with chrome paint?

 

The asr 32mm bar isn't twice the stiffness as the mugen 26mm bar, the asr bar is hollow so the hollow asr 32mm equals the same as the solid Mugen 26mm

 

Derp... you're right. Looked at the wrong figures I had on rate. My bar was ~20% stiffer than the Mugen 26mm.

PS
The 0.250 wall is the one that's double the 26mm solid.

 

^^^I'm curious what the load factors would be on the full stiffness setting on the infinitely adjustable arms? Is the pressure/load that the rear sub frame sees dependent on what setting the arms/bar are at?

 

Actually... that's a really good point. I'd *think* that there's an effective limit to what the subframe is going to see... i.e. just because the load transfers instantly with the 0.250 wall bar doesn't mean that it sees any additional peak load over what it does with a 22mm bar. Now it'll see relatively "more" load, "more" often and that load will be applied over a shorter duration of time... what does that mean to the subframe? No clue.

 

Yeah, that basically what I was asking. Pretty much a moot point as many of us have run thicker RSB's with zero issues.
I'm a sucker for theory chats though

 

Yup. What we need is the Soooooper Genius to chime in with the additional math and theory behind it all.

In my head, as the car turns (we'll say "right") the ~500# on the RR wheel begins to transfer to the LR. The rate of transfer is dependent on the bar (and with these bars we can pretty well exclude a scenario where not all the weight transfers) but the total weight transferred will always be 500#. So, if we assume my old setup of 550# rears and the 0.120 wall bar, we get a wheel rate based on just the spring of around 270#. The swaybar mounts inboard of the spring/shock so let's say that it contributes ~700# of additional wheel rate in roll or 350# per side. The result would be something like 3/4" of suspension travel at the rear before the inside rear takes off? Is that right or did I g00ber something up?

Assuming that's right, it explains why the car was soooo delightfully neutral and quick to respond to throttle steering...

Back to the "total load" question, I don't see that the shock loads would be particularly bad... possible exception to this would be if the rear was super low with the outside shock on the bumpstops at the exact moment when the inside rear caught a HUGE curb. That would effectively bottom out the wheel travel for both sides as the swaybar tries to instantly transmit that vertical load from the inside to the outside. I'd expect the rear of the car to get launched into the air (resulting in a spin)... but outside of this long shot scenario, I doubt there's much additional peak stress running through the subframe with the big bars.

BTW, this is just me mulling it over... feel free to poke holes in it.

 

No hole poking here . That's some great scenario theory.

 

Thanks man.

And I didn't mean "poking holes" in a snarky way... just that I may have overlooked something.

 

Got a comptech tie bar gsr
will need milling down to fit type r