Here goes my build thread 1990 CRX Si, B53-P (celestial blue pearl) bought it bone stock for $2000, 270,000kms, and lots of rust!

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had build in appearance thread, but its a performance build so i thought it belonged here.
stay tuned for more!

 

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that stock height tho!
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Monster truck!
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Lowering springs!
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Needs more low
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Chillin with an s14
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Decided it was time for a wire tuck and charcoal delete. before pic
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Pulled the fenders off and thought hmm how about I strip down all the old **** and redo the undercoating while I am in there.
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Bam Clean! and new uca and ball joint!
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will be replacing uca with skunk 2 before it goes on the road.

 

Bolted back up (temporary)
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Thought i would line the inner fender since the inner liners had to go
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After wire tuck (sorry for shitty pic)
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That hood Angle tho!
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Interior shot
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Rusty a$$ QP's
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EG brake light sockets in signals. BTW lacked out lenses are going bye bye
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Lightly smoked tail lights (and pee shooter exhaust)
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Pretty decent interior
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I found some power windows in a hatch at pick n pull, snagged em for $100 and they work damn good!
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A little cut and polish! i love this color! B53-P
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Cleaned up the bay a bit.
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Cant believe the depth to the color! and how it looks in different light.
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And here is where i have decided i want to go K20 turbo so might as well tear it down and shave they bay until i can afford some more ****!
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Wire brush(motor is gone!)
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Soo many things to take out!
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So funny story, i put the stock head in my alley as i didn't need it and didn't wanna go to the dump yet, come out the following saturday and wouldn't you know hey its gone! i guess someone wanted it. so i tried the same thing with my block and tranny and damn haha someone took em both off my hands! probably thinking they’re stealing it. they also went through the bin of small parts next to it and removed what they wanted.
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Bump for some WOOD GRAIN NARDI i got off a buddy ‘s mint EF wagon.
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Shaving begins. Or I guess filling, better bust out the welder.
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Sanding up a storm!
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More sanding..
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Passenger mount gone! no going back now!
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Also removed interior as to not start fires when welding fire wall
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The work pad!
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All welds are done! for now.. minus the passenger engine mounts. Have to wait till Christmas to purchase those!
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Still lots more sanding to go! Also will be painting stock color.
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Ever since i bought the car i had a funny feeling it had been repainted/had some body work done and woulkdnt you know it almost quarter to half an inch of bondo on rear quarters! Good thing I have new ones that are going in!
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Had to test other spots to make sure it wasn't too bad. will have to bring it down to bare metal before it gets the bodywork done so i dont have any unexpected problems.
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Good Day EH! found a spot on the door rusted all the way through, hopefully i can find one at the scrap yard.

 

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Oh right doing the DA integra big brake upgrade with the 1" mc
freshly stripped down and coated!
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Rest of the brake stuff! Going to be doing tucked lines(go ahead and hate) but its my build.[IMG][/IMG]

 

I sort of want to do a wire tuck now. How hard is it? I'd also suggest a K24. Love em more than the k20. But its up to you. Looks good so far.

 

wanna be able to clear a hood though. wire tucks are easy, headlight and corner light assembly wise. pretty straight foreward put the plugs where they go, get wire lengths and solder together, make sure it looks good lol.

 

Pulled off the skirts and found more rust.




All jacked up.


Dropped the gas tank so i can start getting everything cleaned up underneath.


Trailing arms getting removed as well


Will get all loose **** off with wire wheel


Mint where tank was lol


Random pic.

 

Got some oem Stanley side markers!


Picked this beaut up for dirt cheap, mishift, bent valve. Good thing i only need bare block!


Valve cover. Debating color match or wrinkle black.


On the stand, quite dirty. Will have to be put through parts washer.


Grime. Can still see original crosshatch, will re cross hatch before install. Looking for a place to get it decked.

 

Zero scratches! In very good condition other than the build up of shmagma.




Possibly looking to sell pm if you want them they are brand new still have plastic wrap except center piece which I took off to look.


I made a mess.


Mock up.


Started cutting.


Cut out! Will be doing other side when it gets warm. -39 this weekend.


Busted out all the sound deadening, -39 and an air hammer mean no need for dry ice haha


Made a lip so it sits flush. They are civic rears and they fit good with a little persuasion FYI
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Password jdm hood spacers, oem rear mudflaps, oem rear corner window seals.


Random pic of my puppy.


Hasport 88UA mounts from Ktuned!

 

my plan is internals and valve train, precision PT6266 gen2 .82 AR, as for coils im undecided
had a set of megan full coilovers in my last car, felt like it was on rails, but debating the koni GC set up. will be a weekend car in the summer, and for drag days whenever we get a local track.will be putting in a cage while keeping dash and door panels and hopefully headliner. not sure about wheels, thinking 6ULs powdercoated white. getting repainted stock color.

any help, tips, advise, etc will be appreciated.
thanks in advance,

Matt

 

Looks good.

I'll be tuned in for more updates.

 

Koni/GC is the most suggested set up here. I would say Progress CSII coilovers are a deal though. At $600 shipped to your door with spring rates from 250/250 to 450/500, you can't really go wrong. You just have to know what you want for your set up.

I know you said weekend track use, like auto-x or drag? You said drag when you get a track, but I don't know what you mean by track. So many track events these days.

 

Will be dd in the summer on nice days, have never done auto x, the city where I reside tore down the race track, 1/4 mile and road coarse. So all I have is either a road or a 2 hr drive to a track. Don't think my setup will be ideal for auto x either tho.

 

You sure you want to put all that time and effort into an A3 engine?? Even if it was cheap, that engine has a lot of budget parts from factory. Weaker block, weaker crank and rods, pistons are lower compression and have that weird bowl design for an economy setup...and of coarse the head is not true vtec.

You are much better to run, at the very least a K24 engine....."way" strong in every aspect. Also can be found dirt cheap, I know because I have a couple. Let me know if you need advise, i'm local to you

Deetz

 

Why cut away so much of the superior OEM metal on the quarter panel.

The replacement metal, is not where near the quality of OEM.
If the original is not rusted, leave as much as you can.
The new metal you put in will be swiss cheese in alot less time than the oem stood.

Like the build so far. Alot of people would die for and give you good money for what you cut out.

 

Lots of bondo on both rear quarters, were very mis shaped when sanded down. Plus all the holes filled with fiberglass. Look not as bad before sanding down. Originally was only gonna use small pieces. But it was pretty bad so.

 

K20a3 was bought because there are no oil squirters. Keep in mind I'm just using the bare block, cp pistons, Manley rods, A2 crank, a2 head and tranny with aftermarket LSD.

 

You could use a K24A4 block, no oil squirters, good strong stock rods and mains, the bock carries more webbing and is much stronger....it would need different pistons though. I could get you a complete longblock for $200......plus it will make more power

 

Pm'd

 

10 degrees this weekend, will be welding passenger side mount in and fixing some more rust. Will post up more pics of progress this weekend!

 

Do you have a light you use when welding? Or an auto-darkening mask? I have trouble seeing with my mask down.

I'm in for pics. It's a clean car as far as I'm concerned.

 

Looks good. I am always amused, however, when I see the phrase "lots of rust". What you have here is not "lots of rust", my friend.

THIS...



is "lots of rust". :-D