first off: ITLL BE A SLOW PROCESS! AND ITS FOR ME TO KEEP TRACK OF MY BUILD! HATERS HIT THE BACK BUTTON!

info:
bought a 97 LX sedan non running for cheap (im thinking its the dizzy)
paint not sure got to do a car wash first/10

anyways plans:
y7 stock turbo w/ ARP headstuds, goal: 150-200WHP after cars running good
GC / Koni w/ top hats suspension setup (have the gc's, koni's coming in next week
tackle on my very first own 2way DEI alarm install (using the other alarm to figure it out)

Side plan:
a whole y8 swap on the side, needs a full rebuild as last owner did something to make it not running any longer. my plan is to do a full rebuild and slowly build for turbo!

pros for the car:
9/10 body

cons for the car:
interior rating?? 3/10 ??? floor rug is stained up
1way alarm
some wiring behind the climate control's Chopped up
need a deep cleaning in trunk and the butt cushion of back seats

what i got for the car now:
98-01 confetti sedan front and rear seats
Ground control and GC extended top hats Koni yellows r on route from shipping! (KILLER DEAL ON THE KONI's!)

D16z6 edelbrock performer X IM, i wish it was y series would make things easier for my build but hey, got it for a good deal too lol
Y series ARP headstuds
t25 .48/.49 turbo from 2G stock dsm eclipse

anyways pics to come tomorrow morning!

E:
build thread pics
password is H-T account name without caps, all lower case
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/1994...20BUILD%20PICS

car when i first got it(minus the front seats And had rear seats but i threw that **** away bc it was WET lol)

 

I love the plans you got for it, it's a common build but it's always nice to see these stuff take a different turn. Good luck with it all, i can't wait to see the progress ! :D

 

yea i know its common, i am always a fan of 4drs and i wanted to be the underdog lol.
part of the reason why i wanna keep it single is because my first car i worked on was a single and the other part was the cost spending for D turbo VS b stock swap (here runs $1,000 to 1,500 for full swap)

anyways, i got a few bucks to build up so after i get my car running turbo's goin full speed on build!

 

Yeah the thing about going B swap you get a better platform.You could consider going turbo on the Y7 while pieceing together a B-series swap rebuild on the cheap. From there you can transfer your whole turbo kit just change the manifold over to a built B.

You got good plans, no bs stuff straight to the point performance. :D

 

i guess youre right, but i did forget to mention
a WHOLE Y8 SWAP for free is whats makin me do that on the side lol

e: need help choosing an alarm
on sonicelectronix and ranging from $80 to $160 bucks
im looking and found this for a decent cheap price, lmk wat u guys think

viper responder 350 link below
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...05V.html#Viper Model Comparison Chart

will be using "civic-eg.com" for help on installing the alarm

 

Cant wait to see
im currently fixing my eg8 body.
getting ready for a swap
maybe b16a or h22a

 

How are you going to boost it reliably for under 2K ? I get used parts BUT the EMS/Tune and boost/AFR gauge will eat into at least 1K of that.

 

@B_SWAPPED93

i have a long period of time to get what i need, i dont mind the wait.
also i plan on buying a LOT of used parts

a turbo tune @ my local Richtuned is $350 per
im new to this so idk what im suppose to do tho but will ask questions as i continue on the build SLOWLY! lol

Also update:
cleaned up the alarm wiring (waiting to get car started to order a new alarm 2way alarm)
gotten DSM blacktop 2g 450cc injectors used for 60 bucks, hopefully they're good. did get em from a old guy in the rich side of the town of my region
flowtesting my injectors over here i found from wichhunter is about $10-$20 per injector, holy moly
anyone got a suggestion on 300-350 MAX WHP SATURATED injectors, really dont want to make a resistor box. and i no i can sell my injectors on CL for $80-100 easy so depending on cost of the saturated ones i may sell > buy those! gimme some suggestions!


well as promised, took a lil longer than expected but pics arise!
password is my HT acc name without caps, all lowercase letters
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/1994...20BUILD%20PICS

heres the turbo i got

 

Good luck on the build, just be careful on what you buy that's "cheap" as you could be spending more money in the long run. You know the term, you get what you pay for.

 

nice thread I am also building a car for the track let me know how it goes

 

I finally did my first compression
Took fuel pump under dash
Took out Ecu fuse too

Had a screw driver to open up the throttle
Went to town on it
But found out all 4 had 10-30psi each
Ruled out battery and dizzy and starter bc it cranks (and dizzy is new/rebuilt, batterys new)
Im thinking timing belt skipped as it won't start at all. It'll crNk and the belt will turn tho. Gonna try n find out how to check it without a lot of tools lol (mostly jack and a crank pulley tool the $50 one or watever?

I'll post a video soon and show you guys what I mean lmk wat u think!

So im gonna have my mechanic friend next weekend (15th) take a look
Then tell me what I needa do. At this point I am sad. Original plan was down for a week but looks like it'll be down 3 weeks

 

in the video, ignore the slow crank / starter
i replaced battery after video and its still same just cranks faster no turns (start)

here's the video, remember ignore the slow crank i got a new battery AFTER the video still same thing just cranks faster
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F_v3u...ature=youtu.be

 

take the distributor cap off, note the position of the rotor. crank the car over, remove the cap again and see if the rotor moved. that would indicate if the belt is good or not.

 

did that, the rotor moves.

but i just noticed while playing around with removing PS, the timing belt's off by 1-2 teethes, could that be the reason why its not running?
or it SHOULD run but run SHITTY?

 

im thinking the timing jumped and bent a valve causing it not to run.

SO my job tomorrow to diagnose some things:
1. set crank to tdc
2. remove tbelt
3. set head to tdc
4. put tbelt on and do another compression test
5. assuming its bent compression is low, if its high i may be the few "lucky ones" that skipped timing and motor didnt get damaged lol wish me luck!

my mechanic wont be able to take a look at it till the 15th so i think ima just fiddle with my research till then

let me know what you guys think of my steps, if thatll work or i need to change something

 

Set the crank to TDC, and see if the cam is at TDC. You don't even need to remove the timing belt if it is. From reading your thread, you don't even know if it's skipped a tooth or not yet.

 

So I set crank to tdc. Looks like I was wrong timings good pulleys single Marc was about spot on with the lower timing belt cover
Then I checked the cam knotch and it looks to be tdc

I redid compression after it was tdc, still getting
Cyl 1 15 ish
Cyl 2 10
Cyl 3 5-10
Cyl 4 5-10
Going from driver side (1) to dizzy (4)
I don't have access to a leakdown test.
Any ideas? My last resort is removing head. I will remove it once it gets to that point
Is there anything else I can check before I get to the head removal step?

 

so the starting problem first:
i checked tdc again on crank, its good. i compared tdc from crank to cam gear, its good too.
i did a compression test again after setting the tdc ^^, and Cyl 1(pulley) 15ish / 15ish / 5-10ish / 5-10ish(dizzy side)
which leads me to assume its bent valves as its no/low compression
and since i got no compressor ima pull head of and since im doing that ima do a whole
headgasket and timing belt job


good news, i got my Koni's in today and assembled it. Will take pics in a few

 

aright 3-7-2014 I am pulling the y7 head off, got everything off EXCEPT header and head 14mm studs

needa go get an extention thats about 3-6 inches and a torque wrench again / beaker bar!

 

Build threads require pictures. The current thread is almost entirely text. Please document your build process with photographs.

 

its in the linked i posted but i can ill just edit it

e: in the photobucket page i linked it shows all of them
even the parts for me to keep track on what plug plugs into what for the head installation again lol

 

Yes, you can edit any of your posts.

 

Viper too common, please think about the other alarm company, and I'm not talking about all the other ones made by DEI.

 

With cylinders that dead, you just need to go ahead, pull the motor, and completely rebuild it...or replace it.

 

in process of removing head

needa order a whole new timing belt kit and water pump kit
more on monday soon i think