hello all,

I have a 97 accord wagon, f22b2, auto,206k, rust free (rare for western pa).

very little invested in the car, just a 2nd car as a beater. joined to get some more info about the car. never owned a Honda before.

bought the car with out a muffler. would like to put axle back on it but have not really found one.

could use a timing belt, but its cold out, lol.



i normally drive a 2012 chevy sonic HB

 

Rockauto.com will have a selection of bolt in replacement mufflers. Make sure to purchase a unit for your wagon and its correct sub model. Rear muffler tip/tailpipe is in a different location than the coupe/sedans. Also I believe there may be a difference in pipe diameter between LX/EX models.

Front wheel bearings usually last about 100K Miles before needing replacement. They do not make noise like other cars, telltale sign is uneven wear of the inside tread block of the front tires. Usually every other tread block will be scalloped/worn. While the bearings are being replaced this is the oppurtune time to also replace the lower balljoint as the wheel bearing needs to be removed to replace it. Check the thickness of the front rotors at this time as well. These cars use a hub over rotor design which encapsules the front rotors, and they cannot be removed unless the front bearing/hub assembly is removed from the knuckle.

If you have no records of the timing belt being changed, it should be changed ASAP. Interference type engine will have the pistons smack the valves if the belt breaks, requiring a head rebuild. Stick with Gates brand full kit, Rockauto has good pricing, with a waterpump. While doing the timingbelt/waterpump replace the thermostat as well. I highly recommend sticking with one from Honda. When they fail they usually fail OPEN, which will prevent an overheat issue which will warp the head and require head removal and rebuild.

AT trans in these cars will last a long time if the fluid has been changed regularly. The most common 'death' of the trans is due to the sump filter becoming clogged with clutch material and junk from wear and no fluid changes done to remove/prevent the buildup. There is no removable pan on this trans, only a drain plug. Thus drain and change the fluid. These transmissions are good for 250Kmiles with no fluid changes before they get clogged up. I would also suggest using a transmisison solvent/cleaner when changing the fluid. I prefer SeaFoam TransTune. This will help break down any goop and varnish inside the trans, to be removed on your next drain.
Will require a drain and refill X3 to fully change out the fluid. Do not use a fluid changing machine to change the fluid. These transmissions have more in common with MTs than typical ATs and also run at a lower pressure than typical ATs. Verify that the TV cable is correctly adjusted, it should not have any slack, but it also should not have any tension on the lever. Adjustment can be done with a 12mm open end wrench. If the car suffers from erratic shifts, the two magnetic pickups on the right side cover may be covered in ferrous material, simply remove and clean them. After the initial fluid change, I like to simply drain and refill the sump every 10K miles. Wipe off the drain plug, it is magnetic and will have junk stuck to it.

If the car has a slight stumble or stutter at cruise the EGR ports may be partially blocked. Very easy to clean on 94-97 Accords. Check the Accord FAQ at the top of the page on how to clean. Although I would not use silicone grease, just normal wheel bearing grease when reinserting the injectors.

Check that there is no slack in the throttle cable, over the years the cable may stretch and not allow full opening of the butterfly, and a delay in throttle response vs pedal actuation. 12mm open end wrench, just remove the slack.

If you need to check any CEL codes and do not have a OBDII scanner, under the center of the glovebox door are a couple of blue wire connectors. The two wire one can be jumpered, and the ignition turned to II(ON) to retrieve any stored codes, but will only be in the form of OBDI codes. Preferable to have the OBDII scanner to retrieve much more accurate OBDII codes.

Accord FAQ at the top of the page has tons of info for you to peruse, I suggest getting familiar with your 'CD'(chassis name) Accord.

Welcome to H-T.

 

thanks for all the information!

the front rotors are the same as my sonic then.

i dont have any abnormal tire wear but i will have to keep a eye on it

trans was replaced with a salvage one @ 195k miles( right before i got it) due to no drive

i have not driven over 3k rpm due to the belt, once the weather breaks i will be changing it. my sonic is a timing belt but it is alot easier to change with a external water pump and no balance shaft. my sonic is far from stock and i use it for auto and track cross. fun car!

the engine runs like a champ, always stats, hardly burns any oil if any.


what is the correct trans fluid type? and how many qts for a sump change?

 

Honda specifies their own $9-12 per quart fluid.
Old Fluid: ATF-Z1
New Fluid: ATF DW-1

However if you look at the rubber plug on the dipstick it states 'DEXRON II'. Also around the time of Honda changing fluid type, Dexron II was being superceded by Dexron III on several auto parts store. This is nothing new(DEX III superceding II) but it was common to be able to pickup a gallon of DII. If need be. Now it is more common to find gallon jugs of DIII. IMO just use Valvoline Dexron II/III in the gallon jugs ~$20 at the local auto parts store. Coincidence that Honda fluid and Dexron fluid types changed availability? Or is it just the same stuff with a Honda bottle?

FWIW I used to use the Honda fluid, but it would get expensive to do a normal drain and refill. Being I like to be progressive the pan is drained and refilled every 10K miles. Between DII and Z-1 I noticed no difference in shift characteristics or operation of the trans. When Honda switched to DW-1 the trans shifted smoother and softer IMO. Went back to DII and the the trans shifted like how it used to with Z-1. Then I tried DIII and it shifts like DW-1 fluid. So I have been using Valvoline DIII from the gallon jugs.

2.5-3 Quarts, I have also had nearly 4 quarts come out of the pan.
*more reason to purchase a gallon jug*
I also like to drain the fluid soon after a drive, this seems to help pull out more particulate matter suspended in the fluid that may otherwise sink to the bottom of the pan and not flow out.