98 accord 4cyl flashing CEL
First post here, Thanks for your interest and any advice.
98 Accord 4cyl auto sedan 250k
Had check engine light on steady
pulled codes at AZone
upstream O2, misfire, vacuum leak, and shift issue code for trans
replaced O2
Misfire was ( I believe) oil in a plug galley, which was completely full. replaced all seals and gaskets including distributor O-ring and spark plugs OEM
It did shift poorly initially but was cleaned up nearly 100% by doing the drain 3qts and replace 3qts with genuine Honda trans oil, have done this twice need to do one more time. I know trans was rebuilt but not sure when, but initial draining had good color and no burnt odor
Found crack on intake hose pipe in between MAS and throttle body which I used JB weld
The car burns no oil, and runs buttery smooth. Got nearly 400 miles on tank as fuel light came on
BUT on occasion rain or shine, cold or hot when I first start it its like it stumbles horrible (like lawn mower on chock minus smoke from exhaust) for about 5-10 seconds then it quickly clears its self out idles very smooth meaning if I had a glass of water sitting in cup holder there would be no ripples in the water.
This morning it started ruff, stumbled longer than usual maybe 10 sec, then immediately started slowly flashing CEL. But again it cleared right up runs very smooth, gets great fuel economy, shifts smooth, all fluids good. I just ordered new plug wires online, and going to replace plugs again. I'm thinking if that does'nt clear things up then I'll order new distributor (whole assembly)
The only thing that comes to mind is I did use the chevron w techron fuel treatment because of the occasional stumble, and I'm about half way through the tank that I treated.
98 Accord 4cyl auto sedan 250k
Had check engine light on steady
pulled codes at AZone
upstream O2, misfire, vacuum leak, and shift issue code for trans
replaced O2
Misfire was ( I believe) oil in a plug galley, which was completely full. replaced all seals and gaskets including distributor O-ring and spark plugs OEM
It did shift poorly initially but was cleaned up nearly 100% by doing the drain 3qts and replace 3qts with genuine Honda trans oil, have done this twice need to do one more time. I know trans was rebuilt but not sure when, but initial draining had good color and no burnt odor
Found crack on intake hose pipe in between MAS and throttle body which I used JB weld
The car burns no oil, and runs buttery smooth. Got nearly 400 miles on tank as fuel light came on
BUT on occasion rain or shine, cold or hot when I first start it its like it stumbles horrible (like lawn mower on chock minus smoke from exhaust) for about 5-10 seconds then it quickly clears its self out idles very smooth meaning if I had a glass of water sitting in cup holder there would be no ripples in the water.
This morning it started ruff, stumbled longer than usual maybe 10 sec, then immediately started slowly flashing CEL. But again it cleared right up runs very smooth, gets great fuel economy, shifts smooth, all fluids good. I just ordered new plug wires online, and going to replace plugs again. I'm thinking if that does'nt clear things up then I'll order new distributor (whole assembly)
The only thing that comes to mind is I did use the chevron w techron fuel treatment because of the occasional stumble, and I'm about half way through the tank that I treated.
You may want to check that your IACV is working properly. IIRC on '98-02 there is no longer a FITV just the IACV. If it is gummed up, sticking, or fouled with soot it may not be able to properly control the cold idle speed.
Find out what the CEL code is now present. And post the actual code.
Although OBDII is a better system for self diagnostics, just because a code is triggered does not always mean that the code set is the problem.
Find out what the CEL code is now present. And post the actual code.
Although OBDII is a better system for self diagnostics, just because a code is triggered does not always mean that the code set is the problem.
You may want to check that your IACV is working properly. IIRC on '98-02 there is no longer a FITV just the IACV. If it is gummed up, sticking, or fouled with soot it may not be able to properly control the cold idle speed.
Find out what the CEL code is now present. And post the actual code.
Although OBDII is a better system for self diagnostics, just because a code is triggered does not always mean that the code set is the problem.
Find out what the CEL code is now present. And post the actual code.
Although OBDII is a better system for self diagnostics, just because a code is triggered does not always mean that the code set is the problem.
You may want to check that your IACV is working properly. IIRC on '98-02 there is no longer a FITV just the IACV. If it is gummed up, sticking, or fouled with soot it may not be able to properly control the cold idle speed.
Find out what the CEL code is now present. And post the actual code.
Although OBDII is a better system for self diagnostics, just because a code is triggered does not always mean that the code set is the problem.
Find out what the CEL code is now present. And post the actual code.
Although OBDII is a better system for self diagnostics, just because a code is triggered does not always mean that the code set is the problem.
Last edited by kvnwhite75; Mar 31, 2014 at 03:23 PM. Reason: forgot details
Before ordering any new parts, do a compression test on the cylinders and locate that coolant leak. You will need to fix the current problem, the loss of coolant may be causing the erratic behavior currently.
I am setting that compression test for this thursday, I will post any findings and numbers afterwards. Thanks for the help!
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