So as anyone knows swapping a B Series into an EF is fairly straightforward. BUT, there are many small things that most might not have issues with and are over looked.

One issue that I am searching for information on is crank pulley differences between different B series engines. Working with an 89 Civic Wagon and the engine is a B18b1 that is going in an already obd1 converted car.

My wagon is quite low and I already know there are going to be some clearance issues. Luckily I'm trying to cover this now not once its in. The most pressing issue will be radius arm clearance to crank pulley. My OEM one is the three rib one for PS and AC. I am running neither, only an ALT. Now I've seen people run the CTR single rib pulley but its only balanced, not dampened, which is a no go.

Are there any OEM NON AC pulleys I am not aware of? Or is there any risk of shaving down the pulley to just a ALT pulley or even just take the AC section off? Because I know for a fact that 3rd belt section is going to contact the radius arm as soon as the car is back on the ground. Thank you for reading.

 

I thought the B20 was the only block with pulley issues. I know my B16 is smaller than the B18, but I don't have issues with all 3 ribs and my radius arms are larger than stock. I do not know of any OEM non-ac pulleys. I don't see an issue taking the pulley to a trusted machine shop and having them shave it down.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/b-series-lightweight-crank-pulley-3030676/

That's the best I could find. Seems like there are some aftermarket options. There is the mill option. And there is the B16B (CTR?) Pulley. Is your motor stock? I guess the CTR pulley would work for a NA B18B1 build.

 

Yeah I've heard that some have issues and some don't but I'm pretty dang low and my gut just says ill have issues? What does your ride height look like? I got innovative mounts if I didn't mention. I saw the ati damper but thats more than I paid for this whole swap! Lol I plan on boosting and doing a vitara build on a D series and putting it in after the ls anyways so I'm not wanting to spend all that much on things that wont be helpful once I go back to D.

And yeah that was the same thread I found and probably the best. Surprising how little info there is on all these loose ends that deal with b swaps. Many people just aren't slammed and B swapped I guess?

 

And the ctr pulley scares me. Worse case is Inline Four sells slimmed and balanced pulleys for $150 but I could have a machine shop do that locally for cheaper most likely though their units look very nice. If you have any pics of your clearance to the arm from a couple angles that would be awesome. Thanks for replying in both my threads too!

 

I'll get a pic probably tomorrow. Gonna be honest, not driving that car at the moment. Maybe I can get a photo today. I'm not slammed, or even low actually. I'm at stock height. I am going to go about 1-1.5" lower though. I don't think I'll have ssues.

I would definitely get a shop to machine it. And when you sell this LS, sell the crank pulley. I know people are all over that sort of stuff.

 

I shaved the AC part off of my pulley years ago. Easy money.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...9325&styleid=2

As far as the pulley is concerned - cut off the A/C pulley with a cut off wheel. If you be sure to take your time and smooth it out evenly then there will be no issue. If you are concerned then have it balanced afterwards. Some epoxy paint will go a long way too.

 

Agreed.. I shaved mine off in 2002, 12 years later the b16 is still running strong. (8 years of that turbo'd)

 

Don't be afraid of the CTR pulley, it's a factory part and I ran one for years without issue.