1994 civic lx 5-speed with a d15b2 (bought this way, wasn't running)

Now i have the motor running, but some issues. When cold starting, it'll idle ok for about 30 seconds, then starts surging. It'll surge for about a minute or two then smooth out but idle high at 1500, then slowly drop down to normal once up to operating temp. If you rev the motor from under the hood it'll rev up but pops a little in the mid range, but revs smooth on the low and high end. The real trouble begins once you drive. It WILL not go over 3500 RPM and WILL NOT go over 25mph. In second gear wide open throttle it just bogs down and won't go any faster. It will backfire every 5-10 seconds if i keep the throttle down. Does this car have a limp mode? What should i look for if so? Something else entirely? I've checked everything i know to check, little stumped on this one. Thanks guys

 

Your CEL should be on. Pull the code(s) and post it (or them).

 

What ECU?

 

CEL comes on when driving, disappears after i turn the car off... it is not on with the key in the on position

 

This^ indicates a problem. What ECU?

 

So run the car until the CEL comes on, pull over without turning the car off, and pull the code with a paperclip. As RonJ has already asked, what ECU are you using?

 

ECU - Stamped May 1994, AU1, 37820-p06-a02

I can't get it to flash a pattern with the car running to figure out a code. I'll continue to mess with that.

So maybe wrong ecu?

 

The ECU is the correct ECU for the chassis.

Find the head code. It should be on the exhaust side of the head (front, as you're looking at it). There will be two, three, or four circles. Each circle will have two numbers in them, separated by a |. Find those numbers, and post them. There should also be another stamp, not in a circle, that follows the pattern of [letter][letter][number] - [number]. Theoretically, it should be either a PM5-x, P04-x, or PM9-6.

Find the head stamp and date stamps, and post those.

 

Head pics:

 

OK, so it looks like you have a D15B7 head on a D15B2 block, with a D15B7 ECU. We're getting somewhere.

Drive the car until the CEL comes on. Pull over somewhere safe, do not turn the car off. There should be a small two pin connector near the ECU - use a paperclip, or small piece of wire to bridge the holes. The ECU should start blinking codes. It's usually easiest if you make a video of the code with your cell phone, upload it to YouTube, then post it here.

It also wouldn't hurt to do a compression test, and check your mechanical and ignition timing.

 

The connector i see is blue with a green sleeve over the wires, but is a 3 pin. I have tried to bridge each but none make the check engine light flash to retrieve the code.. any idea?

 

That's the wrong connector. You need the service connector. It should be a blue plug with one brown, and one black wire.

 

got it. sorry i work and go to school full time, so life is tough and free time is at a minimum, I really really appreciate your help. i got one flash, then a set of 3, 5, and 7. so i take that as codes 13, 15, 17?

 

Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor /
Code 15 Ignition output signal /
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor

There is a map sensor hanging, I cannot find a spot for it on the intake manifold. The ignition and speed signals I'm not sure about, but a fault with a speed sensor sounds like something that could put it into limp mode.. Where is the speed sensor on the transmission?

 

Make a video of the flashing with your cellphone and upload it to youtube. That sequence doesn't make sense.

 

 

Does that make sense to anyone?

 

http://check-engine-light-codes.blog...retrieval.html

http://www.troublecodes.net/honda/hondadtc/

this should help you out. it looks like its a problem with the map sensor and the throttle position sensor. the map is supposed to be bolted to the top of the throttle body

 

Codes 3, 5, and 7

Reset the ECU to see whether all three codes return.

 

There is no where for the map to mount. I dont know what intake manifold this is. I will take some pictures...

 

Here is manifold, tips, and loose map

 

thats your problem your map sensor will put the car into limp mode go to a scrap yard and get a map sensor it should have been on the firewall for the car the engine came out of but your car would have origionally had it on the tb so if you see the vacume there is a spot where you put the hose into on your tb for the map sensor it is beside the vac line on top of your tb its the small one that is for a vac line to run to your map sensor which you should mount on the firewall i hope this helps I had the same problem but i switched my tb for one with a map on it you could do the same

 

Switch the plugs around on your MAP and TPS. From that image you just posted the TPS wiring is plugged into the MAP sensor. Additionally, that brass nipple is where your MAP sensor will be routed to.


Edit, just tried switching the connectors myself, and I got two of the same codes. Code 3 can happen from the MAP sensor being out of spec or plugged in improperly... Code 5 again from the MAP sensor being out of spec, as well as code 7 from the TPS being out of spec if you switch the two around. Get it all together the way it's supposed to be and reset your ECU. Outside of making sure your MAP sensor is hooked up properly and your TPS is calibrated properly you should be able to get rid of the codes in like 5 min tops with only a piece of hose as parts needed...

 

On the Canadian D15B7 the map sensor was on top of the throttle body, but on the USDM D15B7 it was somewhere else. As to where, I never did learn.

Does anyone else know where the map resides on the USDM D15B7?

 

The firewall.

Although not all D15B7 years and trims had the firewall mount - if I am remembering correctly what 94EG8 once posted.