I just picked up this car Monday and in driving around town it was fine. However when i started to drive it on the highway i was at 4,000 rpms going 60mph. The speedometer doesn't work so i had my gps going after I purchased it to see the speeds. I've already ordered in a VSS to fix the speedometer, but am guessing it won't fix the shifting issue. Seems like its not shifting till around 4,000 rpms as well. Any help would be appreciated. It's a 2.7 v6.

John

 

Also forgot to mention that the d4 light starts blinking after I start driving.

 

If the D4 light is blinking, jump the two wire blue test connector and read the code that the D4 light blinks. If the VSS is bust the TCU will still command an upshift and lockup. You will need to check the codes to see what is actually the problem. Also the VSS can be taken apart and cleaned, it may become fouled and may work again after cleaning.

 

I'll check that out tomorrow and see where I stand after that.

 

When jumping and getting the code from d4. I got 4 blinks which seems to indicate a faulty lockup control. Any ideas on where to start for checking and replacing parts?

 

Might have been looking at the wrong sheet initially. The 4 flashes seems to indicate the speed sensor being the issue. Guess I will work on that first should be here next week.

 

Back probe your TPS. If it is faulty the ECU/TCU will not know what throttle angle the pedal is and will not command proper upshifts. VSS on the F22 cars only controls automatic downshifts, not upshifts. Is your shifting ever erratic or harsh? Then the NM/NC sensors on your Left Side cover may be fouled with ferrous material. These are the speed sensors for the transmission shafts and the TCU commands an upshift at the appropriate shaft speeds.

Go to the tech auto link in my sig for more info.

 

Will try to do the back probing tomorrow. It is a bit erratic and harsh on the upshifts. Shifting occuring arround 4,000 rpms or so.

 

If the shifts are harsh/erratic the NM/NC sensors(magnetic pickups) may just be fouled with a metallic slurry. If this happens the sensors lose resolution and the TCU will do its best to command a shift, but it would be working 'blind'.
I would remove the sensors and make sure they are clean.

On the V6 trans there is the main shaft sensor located on top of the trans case next to the fill plug, and the other sensor is in the left side cover at a ~10 O'clock position. Remove the 10mm bolt holding them in, twist them to break them free and pull out.

 

Hopefully going to have access to a garage today to take a look at all of your suggestions. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Sadly didn't get access to a garage yesterday. My apartment complex doesn't allow working on vehicles in the parking lot. Will have it next weekend and hopefully the VSS i ordered with be in to do while we are doing the rest of it.

 

Sadly didn't get to check the sensors you suggested yet. I did get the new vss in while leaving the original pin in. Didn't fix the speedometer issue. The two fault codes it currently shows are P0500 and P1791.

 

P0500 Malfunction VSS circuit.
P1791 TCM A/T Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Fault

Something is going on with either your VSS or your VSS wiring.

 

Yeah. I replaced the vss earlier with no change. I didn't change the pin on it, could that be an issue?

 

Do you mean the drive link?
There is the senor and a shaft that links between the lower gear housing and the upper sensor.
If the link is broken the sensor will not work.
If the lower gear drive is broken/worn, the sensor will not work.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html

 

unfortunately I have seen these problems popping up more lately with the autos.
it looks like everything mad mike has just about covered.
did you check the condition of the fluid?
is it dark in color and smell burnt?
transmissions are one of them things people tend to overlook or just forget about until there is a problem and then its too late.
I wish the best of luck and if you do fix it please let us know the outcome.

 

Yeah the drive link. Couldn't think of what it was called for anything. I haven't checked the transmission fluid yet. Though it may be an unrelated issue, my code scanner/diagnostic tool is reading my rpms off anywhere from 700 to about 1300 off of what my gages are reading (gages show higher).

 

So I finally got to do some work on the car today. Oil changed, changed transmission fluid old fluid was pretty nasty), and tried to trouble shoot some more things.

I cleaned one of the sensors that MadMike suggested, the one closest to the ATF fill cap, but wasn't sure about the placement of the other. Anyways with the new fluid seems to shift a bit easier, but still at high rpm's.

As far as the speedometer goes, we looked at the connection and think that the connector itself may be bad. Is it just best to go to a junk yard and try to find a good one?

 

If it is light corrosion the connection might be cleaned by simply unplugging and replugging the connector in. Electrical contact cleaner may help. But if the wire harness/connector looks deteriorated then splicing in a new(used) connector may be the ticket.

http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html

 

The connector looked a bit corroded but the wires are very loose in the back. Going to see if I can track down one today.

 

Replaced the connector and at first thought there was not change. When I started driving however i noticed it jumping around (from about 15 to 20, peaking at 20.) So I hooked up my OBDII reader and saw that it was getting a speed readout now so the connector was part of the issue. That also lead to the cruise control working again.

The next step I guess is to replace the instrument cluster, and thinking that it might be displaying the RPMS, and not the reading i got from the computer. So it might be shifting correctly. Will post back when i've located one.

 

Updated note. When driving it this morning after a little bit the speedometer started working. However after parking and coming back out, started bouncing between 15 and 20 before eventually starting to work again. Any ideas?

 

try pushing the odo reset and maint button numerous times. there are stories of them mechanisms somehow holding things up? next thing would be to check the solder joints on the back of the speedo.

 

That only "applies" when the speedo works but the odo and trip are not.

 

I gave it a shot but didn't make a difference. Will check the connections this weekend.