Long story short I un-loomed my harness(portion that goes to abs/fan/right blinker/rad fan and a/c) to begin tucking and when I was undoing it I snagged several of the old brittle wires now I have no horn, no headlights, no rad fan and no left side blinker(it was the big harness coming from the firewall that was cut). can post pics later but I NEED the headlights and horn most of all.


here's what I need to know

1:how can I direct wire my horn to the NRG hub(I had it wired up properly before this)
2:How can I get the headlights to be on all the time I know this isn't ideal but I can just take out the fuses/unplug them in the day
3:how can I direct wire up the fan

I have lots of room to run wires and my dash has the climate control taken out and a board in place(perfect for mounting new switches)


update from what I can gather this is the dash/cabin harness I fucked up can anyone confirm that it also includes the abs/ac/blinker/fan/headlights.

 

Is this on your 94RS? 94

 

94 GS-R

 

Thread should read "fcm pls help !! wire tuck failed"

 

lol yah not too many ppl know their stuff when it comes to electrical, I just need the headlights as I still run in the "street" FWD class for time attack and they have stricter rules then the next up. any idea on how to get the horn wired direct I see it's just 2 wires I'm assuming one is a ground and the other a "signal".

 

Yes, any of the jerry-rigging you need done, [horn, headlights and fan] can be, but I can't help you on that.

In a pinch, just to get you home, sure, but instead of pissing into the wind, just do it properly and be done with it.

That does not mean you have to replace the harness, you can repair it, if your doing a tuck, leads would need to be extended by adding wire anyway.

Even with just a Haynes manual repairing that should be easy. 94

 

the bigger part of the dash harness is what I'd need right ? well it was a little more then what I said got that got cut.... basically everything from where it splits off to go to the starter go ripped so I have like 20-30+ wires with no ID off hand am I right about the horn tho one being a ground and the other the signal ?. main reason I'm looking for a quick fix is I can't take this to my guys and get it done right way to embarrassing this is among the dumbest things I've done worse then the twice compression tester incident .

 

Any pics of the wires?

 

Can you post a picture of where everything got ripped? If it is before the main shock tower plugs then you need the under dash/ecu harness. I'm sure there's a technical name for it, but I can't think of it right now. If it's after the shock tower plugs then you need the engine harness. Btw, I'm not a wiring expert and don't claim to be, but given a multimeter and wiring diagram I can engineer as necessary. I can't think of many car enthusiasts that like wiring. I'd say that most hate it, me included. The bottom line is that despite what you may think it really is not terribly difficult. You just need a basic understanding of how a multimeter works and a wiring diagram to figure most things out. In my experience honda is usually very considerate in that they color code every wire. I wouldn't doubt that you could just match wire colors and patterns on the ripped wires and get everything back 100% correct.

 

What I'm going to try and do is find what colour the 4 left side headlight wires are then split the loom open further and snip wire by wire till I have just those 2 left. here's a pic of the damage. another issue is some of the harness is stuck behind the damn abs unit.

 

Red/black is park lights.
Green/blue is left turn.
Green/yellow is right turn.
Green/white is left side marker.
Green/red is right side marker.
Green/red is left high beam
Red/blue is right high beam.
Red/yellow is left low beam.
Red/white is right low beam.

Head lights, [high and low beams] are fused individually and need to stay that way, splitting one of the leads to two of the head lights will result in blown fuse or worse, burnt wiring harness. 94

 

Thank you very much ! this makes things look more hopeful .

 

Good luck OP. May I ask why you need your headlights on all the time? It just puts unnecessary load on your alternator (and by extension your engine), and will kill your lights much sooner. DRLs are the death of long lasting automotive headlights. I have 19 year old bulbs in my civic that are still burning strong, and my dad's silverado needs new bulbs every 2 years.

 

So the police don't give me **** for them not working they road block the entrance to "TMP Cayuga" which has the season finale held at it(race track). And the event's sometimes last late so after my 2-3hr drive it gets dark before I'm home and I'd be screwed if they don't work. yes this will be a big pain but process of elimination then time to get so spade terminals and crimpers .

 

If anything couldn't you just rig up a 5 dollar switch? So at the very least you can control it?

 

If he extends the leads he cut, [for the lights] and reconnects them to the lights, everything will work off the combination light switch. 94

 

So I've split the wiring loom of both sides of the break time to print off the ID list and get busy. it also appears i'll have to clean under the battery tray it's gross as anything lol that's not rust. I'm thinking i'll just get a crimper and some terminals etc ?

 

only the right side headlights "should" be affected from this right ? cause my left turn signal still works fine but not my left headlight for some reason(right doesn't work either of course) ?


edit:by park lights what are you referring too ? the DRL's ?

 

Well the driver side heigh beam works !! I can't test the others yet due to destroyed plugs so i'll have to make a junk yard run soon. So now my 2nd question I see our tegs take 9006/9005 is the pug different for each ? also does it matter if I get 9006's all around ?. and to confirm all 4 headlights are individually fused in the under dahs fuse box ?

 

up** can someone answer the question in my last post ?

2nd question where is the horn relay located ?

 

apparently the relay is in the UD-FB so if I reconnect the wires the horn should work, now again I see our tegs take 9006/9005 is the plug different for each ? also does it matter if I get 9006's all around lets say.

 

@bs i've always wondered, if the integras have 2 headlamps on each side, is one low beam and the other high beam? Or do they both come on?

 

When you're driving the DRL's(Canada feature) come on and they're the inner beam, when you switch to your night time lights the outers come on and the inners shut off. Then on high beams the inners come on too and when you dim them the inners shut off, imo the 3rd gen integra's have the BEST light output of the 90's Honda's.

 

So inners are DRLs, and outers are low/high?
Lights off, daytime - inners on.
Low beams - outers low, inners off
high beams - outers high, inners on

Did i get that right?

 

B swaped, Get yourself some shrink-wrap solder and a soldering iron. get some wire from your local parts store, and do the fix the right way. You'll end up with bad connections, flickering lights and intermittant problems in no time with those crimp connectors. Not to mention if one of those pos pops off and shorts everything to ground! Spend a little time, do it right, complete your tuck, and show your boys wassssssssup!