Long story short I found some rust I immediately cut it out along with the surrounding area it's about a 10x6'' area and it's right where the passenger would put their feet to get in/out of the car. I'd like to avoid having to pay for welding so I'm going to drill/bolt it in for the time being where could I get a 12x12'' sheet of aluminum that's thick enough that I could not worry about things. Car doesn't have to look pretty just be able to pass the safety check inspection at the track. Any other suggestions welcome I am planning to get the car caged so this area is somewhat important as that's where one of the "to-chassis-mounts" will go

 

Don't use aluminum if you're planning on welding in a cage.

If you're planning on bolting a cage to a spot that had rusted out and then been replaced with a bolted in piece of aluminum or steel.....it's a bad idea.

People have rebuilt their race car's floor plates with refrigerator panels lol. But they were welded in...and the piece was not structural.

If you have a spot rusted thru somewhere structural enough to weld a roll cage....you should have it fixed professionally.

Sheet metal is available anywhere that sells sheet metal. If you're buying steel, do something like 1020 cold finish if its available in the size you need. That's a common structural steel...and way stronger than the rest of your old Honda.

If you really want aluminum...aluminum diamond plate should also be available wherever Paul Walker bought his floor for his eclipse. Or buy plain 1/8" thick 6061 T6 (at the least).

 

Go to bone yard find your car, cut section bigger then the hole you have out of the donor car from same spot, should fit yours like a glove. 94

 

i think the bending process is beyond any tools i own may just go to my body shops guys, just don't have alot of money right now still need a helmet for this season etc. was looking for something just to get me there and eventually welded in

thx

 

That's why you get the section from a donor car, it will already have all the correct bends/folds/dimples in it, it should drop into place almost exactly.

If the piece has an overlap of about an inch, you can use some seam sealer and some pop rivets to hold it in place and seal it.

We have done the same on a few G2s under the rear seat for fuel pump access, using a gasket and some pop nuts and bolts. 94

 

You could also go with some galvanized or cold steel sheeting, at LEAST an 1/8 of an inch thick. I would go with a 1/4 inch to be safe, since you said passenger's feet go there (weight bearing).

Drill holes through the plate into the floorpan, line them up, and use Grade 8 bolts and nuts, at least 1/4-20, and a grade 8 flat washer with a nylon washer to keep the metal from denting. Then bolt it down. Use some silicone sealer around the edges of the hole you cut out, then lay the sheet on top of it, to seal out the heat/cold/water.

Good luck OP.

 

1/4" thick steel??!?!?!?!!??! Acura Tanktegra.

 

 

yah just going to be hard to find a junkyard car that doesn't have rust there too, it's right where the floor starts to up to the seat area. I'll need some sort of cordless angle grinder.

 

Yea, I see you do not have any PicknPulls out there, the one here in Kelowna has 6 G3s...http://www.picknpull.com/check_inven...ra&Distance=20. 94

 

Where the OP lives there are dozens and dozens of wrecking yards. I know because I live there too. OP is more interested in posting his angst and his traffic tickets than in actually getting stuff done. Sheesh.

 

 

rust has gotten to most of the teg's I've seen at the yards, no i just don't know body work, trying to get it fixed up before may 25th for the CSCS season opener.


@crazyhorse the car doesn't have rear seats so no one steps there but 1/4'' sold steel ? the goal is to keep weight down lol the oem floor is like 1/8th thick after the sound deadening/carpet is removed seriously thin imo.

 

1/8 or 3/16. And remember to use nylon washers and grade 8 hardware.