Is it necessary to do ATF Flush via cooler line? which requires 6 liters and otherwise approximately 2 liters on 92 accord auto Transmission.

I plan to change the Oil but not sure if complete flush is worth it..... or its just costing me 6 liters

 

dont do flushes just do drain and fills until its totally red again

 

Draining is better as you need to remove any material that has worn off and fallen to the bottom of the sump. There is also a magnet on the end of the drain plug that will be covered in gunk and will need to be cleaned. Also just snug the drain bolt do not over tighten it.

 

Drained the oil there was some metal gunk on the nut magnet. Cleaned it. I dont think i would have to redo this after few days? as the oil was already redish..........

 

if it's red now then you're good to go...if it was me I would make sure it's bright red

 

so after how many km i should change it?

 

Every other oil change change out the ATF. It's not that the ATF itself goes bad, but that the sump for the AT is not accessible and it can easily become plugged up with old clutch material. Once this plugs up the transmission will not work due to being starved of fluid.

If the fluid has never been changed, change it again at the next two oil changes. Then start the every other oil change.

 

I was a little skeptical about even messing with my trans fluid. I just bought a 99' CG5 LX Sedan 2.3 4cyl and before i bought it i read these transmissions (99-02) are some of the worst when it comes to reliability, and the worst when it comes to servicing.

Example i read so many "i just serviced my transmission and im having shifting issues now" threads on here....got me scared to even allow honda to service it. lol.

The fluid is "Redish Orange" in color and smells semi-burnt. Its clearly not brown or black at all, and its on the full mark on the dipstick. I am intrested in changing the fluid more after reading this thread but im hesitant after all the bad cases stated here on HT.

So with that said to properly service a "Serviceable" (Fluid is still "Redish" in color) Honda Automatic Transmission we should follow these steps:

1. Purchase/Use Honda Automatic Transmission Fluid Only. (Dealership)
2. Pull dipstick, and then pull the drain plug.
3. Allow adequate time for drain (dripping is ideal imo)
4. Reinstall and retighten plug to spec.
5. Add the Honda ATF fluid to your transmission to the full mark?
6. Shift the transmission thru the gears 3-4 times, then place it in park. Shut off vehicle.
7. Verify fluid level is on full mark.
8. Then change every 5-6k mile intervals.

I hope ive got this right, for people with my situation. Im going to do this very soon possibly in a week or so. Thanks for the help.

 

If it smells burnt change it ASAP. It has lost most of its lubricating properties if it is burnt.
Then you will be there all day and it will take more than 3 quarts/litres to refill. Just drain it, when the majority of the fluid is out plug it and refill.
Nooooope. Leave it running. You want the dipstick to be showing within the full range when the engine is running.
If your fluid smells burnt, I would suggest you drain, refill, go for a short drive to engage all gears, come home, drain, refill, short drive, drain, refill, short drive. Then check that the fluid no longer smells burnt.
Once the fluid is burnt it will increase the wear on the trans. Get rid of the old fluid.

As for changing. At every oil change it would be best to drain/refill the 3 quarts of fluid from the AT sump.

If your fluid smells burnt, do it today or don't drive the car.

 

AT sump? I am not familiar with the sumps location, logically im thinking oil sump in an engine so its low and towards the bottom of the transmission sir?

The only drain im familiar with is the 3/8 Ratchet magnetic plug on the bottom of the trans. Are you recommending to drain from there and then refill through the that same hole sir? Ive got the means to do that if thats what your suggesting, and if so is that to keep debris from being freed up and causing blockage?

 

when the fluid is burnt it might be wise to pull the pan and clean out the gunk in the bottom of it and clean off the magnets

 

AT sump? I am not familiar with the sumps location, logically im thinking oil sump in an engine so its low and towards the bottom of the transmission?

The only drain im familiar with is the 3/8 Ratchet magnetic plug on the bottom of the trans. Are you recommending to drain from there and then refill through the that same hole sir? Ive got the means to do that if thats what your suggesting, and if so is that to keep debris from being freed up and causing blockage?

sorry for the repost but i need some emphasis on the AT SUMP LOCATION.

 

Yes the sump the reservoir of the ATF. Drain fluid from the drain plug.
You drain from the sump plug. Close it. Then refill with a long funnel at the yellow dipstick. That's the only way to do it properly.