00 EM1/B20 swap - Low idle problem
Em1 2000/b20 swap
Okay so i had a problem where my car would need to be heated up before i run it because if i didnt keep my foot on the accelaration it would turn of i changed my distributor and when it was changed the guy changed my rpms to go to 2000 rpm but thats too high but when that ac would turn on it would go in 1500 rpm took it back to him but now its back to the same story its in 1500 rpm in normal but still has to be heated when the point of the dizzy change was to not need to heat up my car when i start it
Okay so i had a problem where my car would need to be heated up before i run it because if i didnt keep my foot on the accelaration it would turn of i changed my distributor and when it was changed the guy changed my rpms to go to 2000 rpm but thats too high but when that ac would turn on it would go in 1500 rpm took it back to him but now its back to the same story its in 1500 rpm in normal but still has to be heated when the point of the dizzy change was to not need to heat up my car when i start it
Last edited by Former User; Feb 14, 2014 at 05:28 AM. Reason: Added car information
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Iacv is the idle air control valve, it's located on the throttle body, should be a couple bolts and a plug, pull it off n clean it with some carb/throttle body cleaner and reinstall, what did he do to make it idle at higher rpm's?
OP, you also need to take a stab at reading this, straight from the Rules sticky:
Please provide that information, as well as the status on your CEL. Is it on? Does it work? It should turn on for 2 to 3 seconds after you turn the key to ON(II), and then go off.
For all technical questions, the following information MUST be included in the first post: vehicle (year, make, model) and engine (if not stock, year, make, model, OBD type). Other pertinent information includes check engine light (CEL) codes as well as engine modifications, such as a turbo kit tuned at 18 psi or a specific throttle body, large injectors, big cams, etc. This information is absolutely essential because, in many instances, members wishing to help in a thread waste their time by posting detailed replies, only to find out the next day that the topic starter left out CRITICAL information. Please respect members wishing to help by taking the time to list or mention crucial information about your car.
He moved my distributor but the purpose of replacing it was so the car wouldnt turn off jn the morning for when its really cold
he eyeballed it and i don't wanna take it to a honda tech cause they ripp my **** real quick for the simplest things so what do you think i should do
Em1 2000 nothing special but a b20 on it
Pull the CEL code(s) and post them. Check your mechanical timing. Buy/borrow/rent a timing light and set your ignition timing. How to do all of these things is covered in the FAQ's sticky, and you need to do all three.
Whoever the clown was that "eyeballed" your ignition timing shouldn't be allowed near cars.
Whoever the clown was that "eyeballed" your ignition timing shouldn't be allowed near cars.
If you don't give it gas it dies, sounds like an ignition problem. Take a look at your spark plugs and post pics of them. By now everyone should know how to do that.
Pull the CEL code(s) and post them. Check your mechanical timing. Buy/borrow/rent a timing light and set your ignition timing. How to do all of these things is covered in the FAQ's sticky, and you need to do all three.
Whoever the clown was that "eyeballed" your ignition timing shouldn't be allowed near cars.
Whoever the clown was that "eyeballed" your ignition timing shouldn't be allowed near cars.






