It is pretty cold here 0 to 20 degrees. It turns over fine and starts but then dies.

I was able to see the car myself and here is what I found. You have to depress the gas pedal to get it to start and if you keep your foot on the gas it will run if you keep it above about 1,500 rpm and it will rev up ok. If you keep it at 1,500 or more you can drop it in gear (automatic transmission) then you can drive the car along as you don't let the rpms drop below about 1,500.

Check engine light is not on. The main relay does click and the fuel pump runs when the key is turned on. I have tried not releasing the key all the way from the start position thinking the contacts in the ignition switch are bad but that does not help. I also disconnected the electrical connector from the idle air control valve but no change.

Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks.

 

So if you get it started and the engine gets to normal op temp, does the same issue happen?

What is the condition of the tune up items (98 v6 still had dist) - cap, rotor, plugs, inspect/test wires.

Never hurts and does not cost much to do a good TB cleaning. A few rags, old toothbrush and a can or two of carb cleaner. Be sure to get both sides and edges of the butteryfly. Also inspect be sure to get the area on the outer part of the tb where the butterfly would "rest" at idle.

I'd check for codes anyway, most places will do this for free if you don't have a scanner.

 

The spark plugs & wires along with the distributor cap & rotor were replaced not long ago. I did find that once you get going and it starts to warm up you only have to keep it at 1,000 rpm or so to keep it from dying so as long as you do not let completely off the gas you can drive normally. After it gets completely warmed up it will idle ok.

So I took the throttle body off and cleaned it with carb cleaner tooth brush and a rag. Since I had to take the throttle body off to get to the idle air control valve I replaced it.

So far it does not die anymore but it idles a bit high on a cold start about 2,000 but the idle comes down as it warms up. At least that is better than dying. I did not attempt to adjust the stop screw on the throttle body.

 

You might want to do an idle "re-learn" to see if that will help the new issue. Cost, ~30 minutes of you time so it is worth a shot.

Yes, I am not a fan of messing with the idle screw. There is usually "something else" causing either a high or low idle.

 

My 2000 civic (260,000 miles) idles high at startup also. Any suggestions?

 

Don't forget the ignition switch, I had random stalling in my sons car and replaced that as it was worn out on a 1998 Honda accord.

 

IGNTITION SWITCH:
do you know that is an AMERICAN HONDA reinbursement?
RE-CALL 2002 -- but the ignition switch keeps shorting out after some time
so each replacement, AMERICAN HONDA has done the right thing ...
I just put the 5th one in my 98'/3.0