1994 Accord VTEC 2.2 starts then dies
Well most of my google searches ended with a Honda-tech post so I joined to ask a question about my Accord. I did search the forum and can’t find my exact problem, or I fail at searching.
1994 Accord 2.2 VTEC Automatic, problem is intermittent. It will leave me stranded, tow it home only to have it start later. I’m at a point now where it hasn’t started for several days so I’m hoping I can finally figure it out.
It starts, then immediately dies. Once it dies, if I attempt to restart without turning the key to the off position, it’s as if there is no fire. If I turn the key to the off position, it will start and immediately die again. I’ve done this many times and the symptom does not change, always the same. No CIL.
I really appreciate any help I can get to diagnose the problem. Thanks.
Edit: Has spark when it will not start on retry. I'm guessing fuel pump?
1994 Accord 2.2 VTEC Automatic, problem is intermittent. It will leave me stranded, tow it home only to have it start later. I’m at a point now where it hasn’t started for several days so I’m hoping I can finally figure it out.
It starts, then immediately dies. Once it dies, if I attempt to restart without turning the key to the off position, it’s as if there is no fire. If I turn the key to the off position, it will start and immediately die again. I’ve done this many times and the symptom does not change, always the same. No CIL.
I really appreciate any help I can get to diagnose the problem. Thanks.
Edit: Has spark when it will not start on retry. I'm guessing fuel pump?
Last edited by mikeoj; Feb 9, 2014 at 05:52 PM.
What you basically need to do is to take off the steering cover to get access to the ignition switch. Then you need to test for voltage at the solder point where you get power when you turn the key to the 2 position. So in the 1 position it will not have power at the spot, then when you turn to the 2 position you will have battery. You can actually attach an alligator clip to that particular solder spot then wait for the car to die while you're looking at the multimeter. If voltage drops when the car dies then the problem is the ignition switch. It's two 6mm bolts and a connector on the other side at the fuse box assembly. One of the easiest things to change out, assuming you don't have an aftermarket alarm that is tapped into it.
I had an aftermarket ignition switch I bought go out at 25k miles a week ago. It was starting to nonstart after the car was warmed up. I tested everything in the starter circuit and it was all good so finally I did a voltage drop on the start position and it was basically all going down my multimeter. I pulled another from the junkyard and no problems since. It was only doing it when it heated up. The contacts just get old. Not sure why my aftermarket went bad but you get what you pay for. I had got it from rockauto .
I had an aftermarket ignition switch I bought go out at 25k miles a week ago. It was starting to nonstart after the car was warmed up. I tested everything in the starter circuit and it was all good so finally I did a voltage drop on the start position and it was basically all going down my multimeter. I pulled another from the junkyard and no problems since. It was only doing it when it heated up. The contacts just get old. Not sure why my aftermarket went bad but you get what you pay for. I had got it from rockauto .
Last edited by holmesnmanny; Feb 10, 2014 at 06:53 AM.
OK, There are 7 solder points on the back of the ignition switch (left side of the column) 2 are hot all of the time, 4 are hot when the key is in the on position, 1 is hot when starting. The 4 that are hot stay hot after the car dies.
I’m assuming this is a fuel issue. After the car dies, I can hear the fuel pump run for another second or so, then it shuts off as I hear the relay under the dash click. I don’t have any way to check for fuel pressure/volume while this happens.
As it is now:
-Start car, dies.
-Try to re-start without turning key all the way off, no start at all.
-Turn key all the way off, car starts then dies.
I get that by turning the key off completely and back on will run the fuel pump for a second, which makes sense as to why it would start after doing that. But, when it dies, the pump runs for a second and then will not restart unless I cycle the key. Shouldn’t there be fuel after it dies from the pump running to restart without cycling the key?
Sorry if that’s confusing, it’s the best way I can explain it that makes sense in my head. Thanks for the replies and help!
I’m assuming this is a fuel issue. After the car dies, I can hear the fuel pump run for another second or so, then it shuts off as I hear the relay under the dash click. I don’t have any way to check for fuel pressure/volume while this happens.
As it is now:
-Start car, dies.
-Try to re-start without turning key all the way off, no start at all.
-Turn key all the way off, car starts then dies.
I get that by turning the key off completely and back on will run the fuel pump for a second, which makes sense as to why it would start after doing that. But, when it dies, the pump runs for a second and then will not restart unless I cycle the key. Shouldn’t there be fuel after it dies from the pump running to restart without cycling the key?
Sorry if that’s confusing, it’s the best way I can explain it that makes sense in my head. Thanks for the replies and help!
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