This started to happen after I took off a old alarm. Everything runs fine until the engine warm up and the fan turns on then a min later engine shuts off...I can drive it for a kool 20 min before the engine shuts off...then I try to start it...it cranks but just won't turn over? Any clue?

 

can you elaborate a little more on the situation. Id like to help. When the car dies is the gauge showing hot? have you changed the main relay. If they get hot they start to malfunction. The main relay operates your fuel rail, ignition and ecu.

 

Temperature normal where is the main relay?

 

The PGM-FI Main Relay is to the right of the steering column, access by removing lower dash trim.

FYI, the PGM-FI Main Relay powers the fuel injectors, IGP1 and IGP2 at ECU/ECM, [fuel injector relay] and the fuel pump, [fuel pump relay] both the relays make up the PGM-FI Main relay, not sure what part of ignition whiterice916 is talking about, other than indirectly.

When it stops running and you try and restart, do you hear the fuel pump priming if you turn the ign, to run position, [not all the way to start]?

If not...
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html
http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm

Or possibly the fuel pump itself, you can test the pump by unplugging the PRM-FI Main Relay and jumping the yellow/white and yellow/black, there are two(2) yellow/blacks, one is the injectors the othewr is the fuel pump, try both, you can also test if it is the ECU/ECM, with the relay plugged in and ign. switch on jump black to green/black.

The above tests need to be done when engine stalls and fails to start.

If you do hear it, then the problem is most likely the coil or possibly the ICM, [igniter] both are suseptable to heat failure, more so the coil, the ICM generaly just quits, never works again, the coil on the other hand will work when cold but fail once hot.

The above are the most common problem with your symptoms and are very common on older Honda/Acura.

Before doing anything else, redo your main ground, [also a common problem on older cars] DO NOT just eyeball them. disconnect/clean/reconnect, the batt. to chassis and chassis to engine grounds, one cable on G2s, also redo the VC and thermostat housing grounds.

Redoing the grounds is the only sure way to eliminate them as the possible problem. 94

 

My ground cable to chassis looks fried

 

Bring a 1/4 inch 10mm short socket, ratchet and flashlight. Its a big rectangle relay box that's either brown or black. Main relays get hot and shut down when they're malfunctioning. It might not be it but ifn it's original then it wouldn't hurt to change it. They start sending faulty signals from too much resistance

 

if you want to know for sure if it's the main relay, turn your key to the on position and look at the little glass window on the ecu. if it has no light of any kind in there then the relay is dead. They're $60

 

I sell custom copper ground straps if youre talking about the one from the valve cover to radiator support.my father actually custom cuts and solders them

 

main relay fix is cheap and easy.

http://techauto.awardspace.com/mainrelay.html

 

Looking into it right now...thanks for all the help

 

Not the relay....I'm afraid I fried something trying to install a remote start on car .....total failure

 

Or I also check my codes it reads 8 and 9 tdc sensor and cyp sensor

 

SOunds like the coil is going south, if you have those codes in the distributor, time for a new one all together.