Hey all, so last time I adjusted my valves I believe I did .003 on intake side and .006 on exhaust side. I tried searching online and I was getting different answers everywhere. Is this correct?

Also, randomly when I depress my clutch (typically when it happens most) my idle will rise and drop and repeat the process. At times it'll do it randomly. I removed the IACV and cleaned it. I don't have a cel. Could it be the IACV is bad?

Last thing, when I turn on my blower (no ac button), I notice water leaking under the glovebox. What causes this?

 

Does your car still have the under the hood sticker listing the specs ? i don't know lash specs off hand but i'm guessing it's a non-vtec.


Tbh in my experience that's kinda normal for it to be a little higher then standard idle when rolling them coming down when you stop.

leaking heater core ! hell of a pain to replace i just ripped all my ducting/HVAC out of my teg long and painfull day.

 

I believe it does. I'll check it out when I get off work. I also have the Integra service manual. I just wasn't sure which one I was looking at because there were a few different ones.

Indeed it is a non VTEC.

This nonsense started happening after I changed one of the hoses by the thermostat housing. Since my heater wasn't working, they had them on backwards, or in the wrong place at least. I took notice when I went to the junkyard and looked at another Integra.

I remember feeling water by the blower. Almost same place as heater core? It's strange. It does it randomly.

 

Did you bleed the system 2nd though that would be more likely

you could have a leak also but keep in mind the heater runs off the coolant tho

 

I'll try it again to see if it leaks and I can find out exactly where it is underneath the dash. I will bleed the system when I have off on Thursday.

 

Those exact systems can arise if the lash is too tight (i.e. clearances are too low). Test the clearances again when the car is cold and make sure they are in spec.

Your clearances are correct for non-VTEC but they are on the tight side. 0.004 and 0.007 is the "middle" setting.

 

Awesome. So .004 for intake and .007 for exhaust correct? I will be checking it out.

 

Awesome. Sounds good. So .004 for intake and .007 for exhaust? I'll look into them. Thanks for the advice.

 

If your non-VTEC B-series is anything like mine, those clearances are way WAY too tight.

Intake: .006 to .007
Exhaust: .007 to .008.
The actual numbers are in Metric and give a slightly wider "acceptable" range, but this is what I use for the sake of simplicity.

It's easiest to use the go/no-go system.

 

**** man. I honestly can't remember where I set them at. I'll do this. I'll take a picture of under the hood and the book I have at home. Although I'm sure the information under the hood is the correct one?

 

I believe those are the VTEC clearances.

 

They are not. I got them from my factory manual.

 

just set my b20 to those settings. 18 ftlbs on the locknut dont forget !

its pretty normal to clutch in and have the idle come up to 1100 or so, then when you stop moving it drops back down below 1000 rpm.

the other stuff sounds like leaking heater core. its a bitch mainly because of the **** u have to take apart to get there.. be careful when hooking up the coolant lines to the core that are on the firewall in the engine bay, the nipples are soft(lol giggidy) and and can become out of round and cause leaking hose connections

 

Okay gentleman tis what I got.

 

Unless I'm looking at the wrong spots, all of them have different clearances. Can someone just verify on this nonsense? Haha

 

Another thing. I tried seeing if the leak will return and it hasn't leaked again. Maybe a loose hose or something?

 

Also. I tried to see if the leak will continue and it has not done so. I tried turning the blower on without AC and no leak. With AC on, no leak. Heater on, no leak. Maybe a loose hose?

 

The numbers are the same in the book and on the sticker.

The book says (sticking with Metric for simplicity):
I: .15 to .19 mm
E: .17 to .21 mm

The sticker says:
I: .17 plus or minus .02 mm
E: .19 plus or minus .02 mm.

Same thing.

And both are close to the inch numbers I gave above:
Intake: .006 to .007
Exhaust: .007 to .008.
Since inch feeler gauges don't quite match to Metric numbers, my inch numbers fall in the middle of the Metric ranges.

I use the "go/no-go" system, where I have the .006, .007, and .008 fingers splayed out at all times.

 

Figures. I didn't even think of metric. I think I'll go with .006 on intake and .008 on exhaust. I'll see how they feel and get back to you all.

Thanks again.

 

I had forgotten/never realized that B18A and B18B were different. FWIW:

B18A
INTAKE: 0.006" - 0.007" (0.15mm - 0.19mm)
EXHAUST: 0.007" - 0.008" (0.17mm - 0.21mm)

B18B
INTAKE: 0.003" - 0.005" (0.08mm - 0.12mm)
EXHAUST: 0.006" - 0.008" (0.16mm - 0.20mm)

B18C
INTAKE: 0.006" - 0.007" (0.15mm - 0.19mm)
EXHAUST: 0.007" - 0.008" (0.17mm - 0.21mm)

The B18B also applies to B20Z, obviously.

 

Thank you sir. Question, will my stock ECU cause my car to run really rich? I often get a strong stench of gas. Will anything get damaged for running the car on that ECU although it has those b16 pistons? Or should I just get my ECU jumper harness and plug in my chipped ECU?

 

In general it is a very bad idea to change compression without also getting a full tune. You're up from ~9.5 to ~11.5 with just a change to those pistons. I'm not sure what exactly needs to be done but I imagine the timing will need tuning and DEFINITELY use 91 octane. A chipped ECU will not be enough unless you have had a custom tune done. I would not even trust a "custom" basemap except to get my car between my house and the tuner.

If you suspect you are running rich have a look at the spark plugs. While you are at it do a compression test.

 

The above figures are consistent with my documentation.

 

I'm off tomorrow so I will doing a compression test and checking out the plugs. The car runs great. Just a few things that bother me, I'm just **** as hell. It was a custom tune, my ignition timing is advanced as well. Just the back bumper on my car gets all black and like I said, I'm ****, it bothers me haha. I figured a chipped ecu will be okay for now. Unless a street tune or dyno are mandatory you know?