If i replace the bad rod bearing but the rod is still loose on the crankshaft after being torqued down. Does that mean i need an under or over size bearing? Assuming the crankshaft and rod are not warped.

Im getting some plastigauge to measure clearances to give me an idea of whats going on at the rod jounals. Im doing it in car so i cant check the main journals because i dont know how to remove the crank while the block is still in the car (or easier to pull motor).

 

First you need to measure the journal with a caliper (if you see scratches or grooves just replace it or take to the machine shop) also you need to check the rods and get them rectified.

After get a rod knock you just not change the bearing and it's good to go.

You need to pull the engine or down the transmission in order to remove the crankshaft.

 

Thats what i thought. Thanks for the verification. I didnt want to spend money on this motor just wanted to work on it for fun because another motor is so cheap to drop in. Thanks again.

 

Also, from everything I understand, you can't get the proper torque on rod caps or main caps without flipping the engine over. So that would mean you can't do any crank or rod bearings with the engine in the car.

Some one correct me if I am wrong, maybe rods are an exception if the mains are still in place?

 

Its doable because ive done it. Its definitely not the way your supposed to do it and any issues are at your own risk.

 

So, did you actually replace the rod bearings and found slack in the rods?
If you use aftermarket bearings you are chancing it, they are not sized to the correct gap by Honda Specs. I just did what you are asking about. I had excessive rod knock on my D16Z6. I did a compression test first and the rings seal just fine with even compression on all 4 cylinders. I didn't want to replace the bearings if the top needs work too.

So, I removed the oil pan and the girdle. Worked on 2 rods at a time (1 and 4) and replaced the bearings with Honda OEM bearings of the same color. Rotated the crank and did the other two rods (2 and 3). The knock went away and everything looks good to go.

While I was at it, I also replaced the 5 lower crank bearing halfs with the same color OEM honda bearings.

It's a three hour job.

 

Thats what i did. But after replacing with a std bearing non oem there was just the same amount of slack. I was wondering if i go under size bearing or oversize bearing so the rod to crankshaft isnt loose and knocking. Or should i plastigauge it with the current bearing and see what clearance its at? Its obviously very loose moves up and down.

 

You should take the motor out of the car and take it to a machine shop. Let them spec it for the proper sized bearings. You can't just toss a bearing in there and call it a day

 

Yes im aware. But you have to understand this engine is just for fun so im just doing **** learning as i go. I have a type R sitting to be swapped in. d16 motor is so cheap its a joke. For the price of coil overs for my e92 m3 i can build a full track honda LOL

 

if it spun a rod bearing the journal is toast. it is almost rare for it not to be.

 

This is what i was assuming that the crank is done. I'll be pulling the motor once i source a cable reel and 6p srs harness from cable reel to srs unit.

 

Doing it cheap, and doing it wrong are two different things. There's only one way to replace bearings.

 

I don't think you're understanding. This engine is trash to me. I'm literally going to throw it in the dumpster because it has no value. Now why would I spend money on something that is junk? Purely for fun i swapped bearings to see what kind of results i would get.

Your understanding of the premise i set forth is not only unsound but is invalid. Please learn logic.

 

You're putting new bearings in it. You're asking if you should buy over- or under-sized bearings. Why would you say you're going to get something, then talk about not spending money? Whatever they put in the water out there on the west coast seems to have gotten to you.

If you aren't actually planning on fixing the car, there is no tech to your question. This is a tech section, for people who are actually trying to solve problems. Stop wasting our time.

 

30 dollars for bearings is not spending money. That is what my lunch costs. Spending money starts at 3000 for me. You keep attacking a non existent issue. My issue was resolved when my assumptions were validated by other members of this board.

 

OK, this is the way to look at it.
First question is: did the journals get damaged.
If yes, forget it, start with a new crank.
If no, then get the correct OEM bearings for the rods and you are good to go.

You can get the bearing color by looking at the number stamped on the rod and the letter stamped on the crank next to the rods. Look at the chart and you will know which bearings to use. There is no guessing or measuring when building a Honda engine if you use the OEM bearings.