What motor oil should I use I bougth a d16y8 and the guy who I bougth it from siad it had 115k miles it's of a 99 ex he used regular 10w30 should I run synthetic or regular?

 

Just keep using cheap, regular 10w30

 

Quaker state full synthetic 5w-30

 

10w 30

 

that's like putting 91/94 into a civic dx...completly pointless and a waste.

 

Mind explaining your reasoning?

I understand why going with higher octane is pointless, but not sure I can understand why anyone wouldn't want the added protection, better cold flow rate, increased thermal break down protection, more uniform oil molecules and just overall better oil for any car unless it was leaking pretty bad. The only downside I know of is that the oil control rings don't remove synthetic as well due to the enhanced properties of synthetic so oil consumption is increased in older Hondas with it.


Quaker State has a higher paraffin content than Mobile 1. Last I checked, most oil manufacturers typically gauge their oil to Mobil 1 Extended Performance synthetic. Last I knew, Mobil 1 was still one of the best synthetics out there, most expensive too but there is reason for that.

 

Run 5W30. You don't have to run synthetic, but if you live in a place with a lot of temperature fluctuations or extreme temperatures it's nice.

 

@tomcat39

(see recent thread on"what gas should i use") it may be a page back. some ppl have reported MPG drop even when using 91+ on their econ-o cars.

 

He gets that, I get that. What no one gets is the idea that it's somehow a waste of time to run synthetic.

 

Maybe on a 400 dollar winter beater. But if you are gonna dd a honda, and you've got the cash, you might as well spend the extra 8 bucks for synthetic and have your engine run smoother longer.

 

lets assume OP's engine does infact have 115K miles and is just a DD there's more then likely leaks and it proably burns some. In this application why would you ? when it's x2/x3 the price of cheap oil it's just going to get burnt or leaked. Never said it's a waste i run semi-synth in my 09 fit...why cause it's a spotless engine and doesn't leak. Same deal with my integra's B20V but i never ran anything other then cheap stuff on my old 99 dx when i had it. better spent on other stuff.

 

Copy that. When I got done replacing the hg on the honda I bought I ran 91 octane Chevron with Techron, figuring I would clean out the system. Also added a bottle of upper lube and injector cleaner. 30 mpg

Ran 87 after that and got 32.5...consistently on every tank after that.

Why not run a high mileage synthetic blend?

 

You should try 5quarts of this stuff, aggg gggg ggggg gggg

 

This guy seriously could use a 7 day vacation. Let's keep these off-topic posts to the confines of GDD, okay junior?

 

10W30 is extremely thick at start up. Then again, so is 5W30.

I would use 5W30 though. That's what's recommended by Honda as the best compromise. I wouldn't bother with synthetic. Pick an oil...you really can't go wrong here. Castrol GTX works well.

I think Advance has a sale on synthetic Havoline for $19.99 with a filter. Pretty good. Do that if you want to give synthetic a try. Then just go back to conventional when prices go back up on synthetic.

Either way. 0W30 or 5W30. Not 10W30.

 

5w-30

I run synthetic in my daily only because I can run it for longer distances and thus do no have to spend every month doing an oil change.

And mods you need to kill some of the trolls in this thread.

 

Is 0w-30 safe to use on these older hondas? I know after 2000 Honda went to 5w-20, then the latest Hondas with their super tight tolerances went to 0w-30.

Haven't heard anything about using this new synthetic oil (0w-30) on our older Hondas.

 

New hondas are at 0W20, not 0W30. 0W30 is only available in synthetic as far as I know. A 0W30 conventional oil would need a very short drain interval.

Yes, Castrol Edge 0W30 is fine to use on old Hondas. Castrol Edge (black bottle) 0W30 is supposed to be made in Germany. It's a REAL group 4 synthetic. Most "synthetics" on shelves (including Mobil1 and other weights of Castrol Edge) are group 3. They're modified molecules based on dinosaur oil. Group 4 synthetics are actual synthetics.

0W30 Castrol Edge runs on the very thick side of a 30 grade oil at operating temp. Meaning that at operating temp, it's most likely thicker than most 10W30. Downside being that gas mileage is slightly reduced. Upside being better protection at high temps...even if you ignore the oil's additive package.

You want a thin oil at start up. You want it to then retain thickness at operating temp.

Unfortunately, most manufacturers dont release enough info on their oil these days to be able to paint an accurate picture of "the right oil for the right engine". Used oil analyses come in...but the key word there is "****".

Not necessary for DD use on a single cam Honda. The motor demands very little from oil.

If you want a guide to what most people found:

-Pennzoil makes an awesome 5W30 off the shelf synthetic. If you have a Honda that takes 5W30, Pennzoil platinum is your guy.

-Castrol 0W30 works really well as a "track oil", especially for 5W30 and 10W30 cars. And it's good for extended drain intervals since it's a BMW longlife (15,000 mile) oil.

-Mobil1 is heavily over rated. It's no longer the best oil you can buy.

For a D16Y8 DD that sees oil changes every 3-5k, I would just use normal off the shelf conventional 5W30. The engine will run forever on that. I believe Castrol GTX has a high zinc content (relatively). So that maybe has an edge over others.

Valvoline maxlife semi synthetic is an awesome oil also. Great additives and very little burnoff. Try this out if your honda is burning a little oil.

I would not use Mobil 1 on anything that you're worried about having oil consumption on. On almost any review of M1 in any engine, it burns off faster than any other oil. M1 0W30 is on the very thin side of "30" at operating temp.

 

My bad on the 0w20/0w30... Been out of the oil business awhile now, definitely 0w20 is what new hondas use. The 0wXX oils are still fairly new to me. I was up to the 5w20 days.

Your statement that M1 is not the best anymore and is overrated makes sense. Being it was the best at one time not overly far back in history, the hype carries on for quite some time after the quality drops. Like you said, detailed information isn't readily available on oils anymore.

Thanks for the fabulous insight. Mad props to you. You've done your homework on all of this and I definitely appreciate it as I hope others will too.

 

^No problem.

 

i live in jacksonville florida so temps are pretyu high here
most of the time

 

You'll do just fine with a decent conventional oil. But if it tickles your pickle, buy a synthetic off the shelf. Like I said before, Pennzoil Platinum is a good way to go for a synthetic 5W30

 

i live where it get hot in the summer an below freazing in the winter. Would it be better to run something like 5w30 year round or run 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer. my moter is a d16 z6 head, fresh rebuild.

 

On my other y8 I ran Synthetic and my oil pan started leaking so bad then my VTEC selinoid so I was wondering will the same happen agian ?

 

10W30 and 5W30 have the same thickness (within a tolerance value) at operating temp. 10W is thicker at start up. The misconception is that W stands for winter. Use 5W30 all year round.

The only advantage to using CONVENTIONAL 10W30 vs. CONVENTIONAL 5W30 is that since there is less delta between the two numbers, 10W30 will be more shear stable. Which means it will resist thinning out over time. So if you're going a longer time between intervals (like 7500+ miles) and you have an engine that really shears apart oil (F20C, for example), 10W30 might be beneficial...but you still get more wear at start up.

Simple answer: use 5W30 all year round. Change the oil at reasonable intervals.