87 crx hard start
I've just recently acquired an 87 crx pgmfi. When I got it it wouldn't idle and was hard to start. According to previous owner it has all new sensors, new dizzy, fuel pump, and coil. Apparently the car was carb originally and was swapped to fi. Looks like wiring harness and everything was swapped correctly. Now if I can get it started I can feather the gas slightly and it will try to rev up but backfires and sputters. I pulled the plugs and they are black as coal. But what seems strange to me is if I spray starting fluid into the intake it smooths out for a second and revs up smooth. I need some advice on what the problem could be please.
No cel. It will rev over 3000 but I have to feather the throttle lightly and rapidly and even then it's only maybe 3200 max. I tried cleaning the plugs but I think they are too far gone.
I have tried a different ecu and it seems to be able to rev over 3000 if I spray starting fluid into throttle body while it's running. Not sure of how high though as I am under the hood working the throttle. With the other ecu I noticed no change in anything
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well the number four is your prob, check the faq.
Code 4 - Crank Angle Sensor
Top sensor in the dist. and is used for fuel control and misfire detection.
If the dist. base bearing starts failing, it will start heating the sensor(s) up, destroying the magnetism causing a code(s). It will lose 10% of it's strenght, each time it is heated up, to a 170 degrees plus.
In most cases, replacing the distributor is the only alternative. Especially if the bearing has failed.
Honda does don't stock the bearing itself, but other after-market compaines are said to have one.
If you have problems starting the engine, or drivability after the install check your cam aligment. The seizing bearing might have caused it to jump a tooth/notch or two. From the extra drag due to the bearing failing.
Code 4 - Crank Angle Sensor
Top sensor in the dist. and is used for fuel control and misfire detection.
If the dist. base bearing starts failing, it will start heating the sensor(s) up, destroying the magnetism causing a code(s). It will lose 10% of it's strenght, each time it is heated up, to a 170 degrees plus.
In most cases, replacing the distributor is the only alternative. Especially if the bearing has failed.
Honda does don't stock the bearing itself, but other after-market compaines are said to have one.
If you have problems starting the engine, or drivability after the install check your cam aligment. The seizing bearing might have caused it to jump a tooth/notch or two. From the extra drag due to the bearing failing.
It has a new dizzy. I don't think the code is 4. I got both lights on at the same time on the ecu when I unplugged the coolan temp sensor. I can clear them and they don't come back on
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