92 hatch dohc swap questions.
So I may be trading my integra for my buddies 92 hatch. Its all original, stock motor minus a header and other things.
I plan to pull the slow stock d15 and order a obd1 jdm d16a9 the dohc zc. Mainly from searching and reading I know everything will bolt up. I've found some parts etc are interchangeable but what all should I look for when buying the motor? Dizzy etc basically what all should come with it.
Haven't seen much into on what ecu to use but should I save myself the trouble and get the ecu for that motor? From what I have read it just bolts right in to the stock axles and mounts. Also a recommended distributer that is decently priced. I've looked on h motors and some other places but its kinda hard to find one. Tiger Japanese has then but I've heard too many bad things to order a motor from them.
Any info and personal opinions are welcome. Thanks guys.
I plan to pull the slow stock d15 and order a obd1 jdm d16a9 the dohc zc. Mainly from searching and reading I know everything will bolt up. I've found some parts etc are interchangeable but what all should I look for when buying the motor? Dizzy etc basically what all should come with it.
Haven't seen much into on what ecu to use but should I save myself the trouble and get the ecu for that motor? From what I have read it just bolts right in to the stock axles and mounts. Also a recommended distributer that is decently priced. I've looked on h motors and some other places but its kinda hard to find one. Tiger Japanese has then but I've heard too many bad things to order a motor from them.
Any info and personal opinions are welcome. Thanks guys.
To my knowlage its as simple as pull the old motor and tranny and drop the zc w/tranny in. All the old lines and everything should have a home right? Just need a zc ecu and the motor/tranny. Still curious as to what all should be included when I buy it. Thanks.
I could careless about 8 HP and 15 pound of tq difference. Its a dd. The zc will get better mpg and I don't have to buy axles, mounts and whatever else. I'm looking to make the swap simple and easy is why I wanted to go with the zc.
To my knowlage its as simple as pull the old motor and tranny and drop the zc w/tranny in. All the old lines and everything should have a home right? Just need a zc ecu and the motor/tranny. Still curious as to what all should be included when I buy it. Thanks.
To my knowlage its as simple as pull the old motor and tranny and drop the zc w/tranny in. All the old lines and everything should have a home right? Just need a zc ecu and the motor/tranny. Still curious as to what all should be included when I buy it. Thanks.
Yea. What should come when it when I order it. Sensors, intake, starter. Basically what do I need to make sure is there that can't come off my current motor.
Also any snags or problems I may come into during the swap. Are all my.hoses and plugs going to have a home? Or is modification needed. From what I've searched and read not many people go into detail about the dohc swap.
Also any snags or problems I may come into during the swap. Are all my.hoses and plugs going to have a home? Or is modification needed. From what I've searched and read not many people go into detail about the dohc swap.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Not many people do the D16 dohc swap. If its a complete swap, it SHOULD come with everything you need. It's a very out dated motor, though. If you're not concerned about power, why undertake a swap at all? What's wrong with the D15? A more common/documented swap with good parts availability would be a SOHC VTEC swap like a Z6 or Y8 swap....or JDM D15B swap.
If you're bent on the d16 dohc swap, most things that are missing will swap over from your engine. Use everything you can that is concurrent to your D15. Idk what you're going to do about an ECU. Maybe a OBD1 B18B ECU would work.
If you're bent on the d16 dohc swap, most things that are missing will swap over from your engine. Use everything you can that is concurrent to your D15. Idk what you're going to do about an ECU. Maybe a OBD1 B18B ECU would work.
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Why swap the ZC? There are so many better options out there
And if you come back with some hipster reply "I just want to do something different for the sake of being different", prepare to be banned.
And if you come back with some hipster reply "I just want to do something different for the sake of being different", prepare to be banned.
So instead of doing the d16a9 I should pick a different d series? D16y8 I guess?
So I stumbled across this y8. Overheating. What would be a good price to pick this up at and average cost if I had the block honed and both the block and head tanked. New bearings main and rod new rod bolt.and head bolts. All new gaskets and maybe a valve job. Could I keep it under 1000 bucks to rebuild it?
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/4304355446.html
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/4304355446.html
How come many posters start out their sentences or questions with "So" ?
i,e.. "So, I just graduated 7th grade English and now I am going to pop some zits then jerk myself to sleep."
i,e.. "So, I just graduated 7th grade English and now I am going to pop some zits then jerk myself to sleep."
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
$1k to rebuild a stupid Y8?!!!!!! INSANITY!!
You can find a solid Z6 or Y8 from time to time for like $300-500....sometimes including the trans. I found all kinds of deals while shopping for motors for my dirt track car.
IDK how local you are. I have a knocking D16Y5 and 5spd trans with a few extras for like $150. Head is in good shape. I'm from the chicago burbs. For an extra $50, I would throw in the HX 5spd ECU that I see on eBay for $400 lol. Comes with a working wideband sensor too. If anything, use that for pricing reference. Don't pay good money for a D series for god's sake.
JDM D15B's are a little pricey...but I guess if you bought one from a legitimate dealer, you have some secruity. I buy a lot of motors and transmissions/parts from jdmenginescorp.com. Awesome pricing....suuuuper clean motors every time I have bought one.
You can find a solid Z6 or Y8 from time to time for like $300-500....sometimes including the trans. I found all kinds of deals while shopping for motors for my dirt track car.
IDK how local you are. I have a knocking D16Y5 and 5spd trans with a few extras for like $150. Head is in good shape. I'm from the chicago burbs. For an extra $50, I would throw in the HX 5spd ECU that I see on eBay for $400 lol. Comes with a working wideband sensor too. If anything, use that for pricing reference. Don't pay good money for a D series for god's sake.
JDM D15B's are a little pricey...but I guess if you bought one from a legitimate dealer, you have some secruity. I buy a lot of motors and transmissions/parts from jdmenginescorp.com. Awesome pricing....suuuuper clean motors every time I have bought one.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Another option may be a VTEC head on your current motor if its healthy. I believe you can do an A9 head also. Might be easier and cheaper than an entire motor. I'm sure there's a 1G integra at a junkyard somewhere.
Oh jeez please no dont ban me. Lmao.calm down big guy. And Because its what I wanted to do. I may go with a b18b if I can find everything cheap enough but it more or less benefits my budget to stay d series. Plus the mpg benefit. If I was to settle on a b series swap I could just keep my integra instead of getting my friends hatch and do a poor mans type r swap.
So instead of doing the d16a9 I should pick a different d series? D16y8 I guess?
So instead of doing the d16a9 I should pick a different d series? D16y8 I guess?

If i was swapping a D series, i would find a Z6 and start compiling turbo parts. The LS swap does give you an instant power/torque bump but its quite a bit of work for a marginal gain...you're right that it benefits your budget to stay with the D as opposed to swapping.
This is another good option. I had a 98 Civic EX with a D15B and it was a fun little car...made good power and still got 35+mpg
I start sentences with so the emphasize I have something to say 
I'm in north Carolina so the shipping would probably be the same as the motor. I have been looking on hmotors and the JDM website that was listed above as well. Same senerio. Around 600+ minimum for a motor and 2-300 shipping. The motor that is currently in the car my Buddy claims it to be the original with 93k. The cluster went out so we picked up another one that reads 280k. Basically a mini me swap I guess would be my cheapest route. But is his bottom end going to hold up like a d16y8 would? Turbo isn't what im looking to do for the time being. Not looking for 200+HP
Mainly my goal is around 160hp on stock internals with a few bolt ons and a good tune. Currently he has
Intake, header, exhaust, high flow cat, cold air intake, and advanced timing. Not really sure the power gains from that but it drives better than stock.

I'm in north Carolina so the shipping would probably be the same as the motor. I have been looking on hmotors and the JDM website that was listed above as well. Same senerio. Around 600+ minimum for a motor and 2-300 shipping. The motor that is currently in the car my Buddy claims it to be the original with 93k. The cluster went out so we picked up another one that reads 280k. Basically a mini me swap I guess would be my cheapest route. But is his bottom end going to hold up like a d16y8 would? Turbo isn't what im looking to do for the time being. Not looking for 200+HP
Mainly my goal is around 160hp on stock internals with a few bolt ons and a good tune. Currently he has
Intake, header, exhaust, high flow cat, cold air intake, and advanced timing. Not really sure the power gains from that but it drives better than stock.
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^thats about a 135 hp D series if you start with the 125-128hp VTEC motors Translates to aboug 115hp at the wheels.
You will have just spent your life savings for 10hp.
You'll need to start slangin that krokodil or atleast become a 1980's succesful stock broker to make a 160hp NA, stock internal D series. Hire a full time crew of engineers and tuners. I thought you didn't care about power. Now we're talking about a Bill Gates sponsored project to make a certain power goal.
You will have just spent your life savings for 10hp.
You'll need to start slangin that krokodil or atleast become a 1980's succesful stock broker to make a 160hp NA, stock internal D series. Hire a full time crew of engineers and tuners. I thought you didn't care about power. Now we're talking about a Bill Gates sponsored project to make a certain power goal.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
D16YX bottom ends aren't all that great...well...mainly the oil pumps.
The OBD0 D16A6 has probably the strongest bottom end. The Y8 has the best head. Idk which pistons you'd want to use. There are some D series combos that can yield insane compression with stock internals that you'll definitely blow up.
The OBD0 D16A6 has probably the strongest bottom end. The Y8 has the best head. Idk which pistons you'd want to use. There are some D series combos that can yield insane compression with stock internals that you'll definitely blow up.
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The Z6 is a good combination of both. That's probably the best overall D series motor. 1.6L, nice and solid. The Y8 makes more power and has better potential, I guess.
But if you're after a 160hp, budget built, single cam (or DOHC sans VTEC), stock internal, 30+ MPG, 1.5 to 1.6L, reliable DD engine from the 1990's....idk man....
But if you're after a 160hp, budget built, single cam (or DOHC sans VTEC), stock internal, 30+ MPG, 1.5 to 1.6L, reliable DD engine from the 1990's....idk man....
So basically I should save my money and piece together a lsv swap or a b16. Gsr swap is tooooo much $$ but I can snag a b16 local for around 5-800 or get a b18b1 bottom end and b16 head. Then I have to dig into my pockets for a conversion kit and ecu, axles and half shafts, mounts etc.
Would I come out cheaper doing a b series swap or boosting the current motor. I don't want to boost on stock internals if I go that route. I'd prefer to at least upgrade to better rods and pistons.
Would I come out cheaper doing a b series swap or boosting the current motor. I don't want to boost on stock internals if I go that route. I'd prefer to at least upgrade to better rods and pistons.
From what I'm reading the mini me swaps are bad for boost due to the high compression. So if I plan to boost it I should swap the motor or keep the current d15b7 that's in the car? People are also saying that I could boost on stock internals at pow boost around 5- 8 pounds. I'm sure that isn't recommended and its not something I'm very interested in.
Also would like someone to recommend a few turbo kits so I can go through and compare pricing. If I could boost the b7 for around a grand I'd be satisfied. I'm assuning that 5 - 8 pounds would put me around 160 -170 at the wheels? I've read the internals are safe up to 190ish. Preferably a kit that comes with injectors. If I could boost it around a grand that would leave me a few hindered to get a tune.





