I am still doing my stock rebuild on an 82mm gsr and wanted some confirmation.

Even though the b series engine spins counter clockwise, do you still measure degrees by turning clockwise on the degree wheel?

In my case, for example, the intake cam is at max lift at 230 degrees. I thought it was 230 degrees from 0, turning counter clockwise. Although now that I think about it, this sounds rather stupid, because how is air/fuel supposed to be added that late in the cycle and function. WOW!!!

It must be true, because nothing else seems to work. I will proceed to dial-in my cams at proper degrees, but don't you find this perplexing to someone who is building one of these for the first time, one with half a brain like me.

Im posting this for people in the future who cant put two and two together.

 

Sure the camshaft is at max lift at 230°, However, ask yourself this question. At what degree is the camshaft when it actually starts lifting the valve off the valve seat? Because that is when the air/fuel starts being added in the cycle. I'm pretty sure that it is a few degrees before max lift. @ .05" of valve lift you would probably be somewhere around the 128°-135° mark depending on the design of your cams.

Degree them counter clockwise......

 

http://asian_e.tripod.com/Honda_Engine_Specs.htm

on another note, im using this page to help me out. it seems everytime im probably just 1 or less than 2 degrees off from where the valve should be opening and closing. You feel this is sufficient enough or should i keep cracking til its POYFIKT!!!?

EDIT: I was trying to explain that even though you spin the motor counterclockwise, you still read the degree wheel clockwise. It makes sense now but at the time i was posting it didnt click til my revelation

 

i ended up not going by when the valve opens or closes, but just found a middle ground as best i could for the cam lift.

example: if the cam was at max lift and held from 237 to 227, i adjusted my cam gear so that the middle ground was found at 230 degrees.

Sweet baby jesus i hope i did this right

 

You degree in rotation of engine due to lobe ramps. What cams are you degreeing in? What were your numbers at 50?

 

Numbers at .5"? Ive just been going by where the valve is at max lift. I didnt check to see if it was at .5"

Its a stock gsr cam on a gsr block with a gsr head. The reason for degreeing is because the head was resurfaced twice as well as the block was decked twice. Long story but it is what it is.

When degreeing, the cam itself is at max lift for maybe a span of 8-10 degrees on the wheel. I just tried to find the span, figure out the middle point, and then set it at the appropriate degree on the wheel (ex: intake cam at 230). Ive disregarded the degrees where the valve begins to lift or where it begins to close because it just doesnt work, or maybe it works when the rockers arent locked in vtec.

Heres a pic. Before i called it quits you can see that i had to retard the intake cam almost as far as it could go and the exhaust cam had to be advanced to the same proportions as well, and it has to be even further. I may have to even have the exhaust cam gear itself advanced a tooth or two to get this motor mechanically in time. Does this seem crazy?

Afterwards, i plan on claying the motor to check p2v clearances if i plan on upgrading someday.

 

reading over cam degree threads again, and now i understand the .050 method you were referring to. I have to take it to this block again. I thought I was prepared for doing this the right way, but again, thought wrong this one write-up for d-series is great

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showc...rated-fun.html

EDIT: I think my train of thought was somewhat along these lines, but the .050 method will be with greater accuracy.

 

I've got a pretty good writeup on my website as well if you are interested.

Degree wheels can be different in the direction they count, since most are made for clockwise spinning V8 motors the numbers themselves arent really important, but rather the distance you are away from TDC. In other words pay attention to the math and the number of degrees you are away from TDC rather than the printed number on the wheel.

The degree wheels I use for example go from 0-180-0 so to get to 230 degrees you rotate from 0-180, and then another 50 degrees in the same direction (180+50=230). However the number printed on the wheel would actually be 130. Point is don't get confused by the printed numbers, they may not always be counting in the direction you are turning.

 

Finally back at it, and I am somewhat happy with my results. After several iterations of checking and remeasuring and checking again, I think I've got it.

But the teeth don't line up properly. A mechanic once told me sometime ago, no matter how hard you try, it will always be half a tooth off. You can see that I am at true TDC, and yes the exhaust cam is a half tooth off. I feel the motor is mechanically in time though.

Should I keep trying at this, or is this as good as its gonna get?

 

I am having nightmares about those camgear bolts....

 

Yea i suppose on a dyno they would be a pain. I bought em used. Ive heard this gen cam gear from skunk2 was sometimes prone to slipping n so this was a way to nip it in the butt. For my application its gonna serve its purpose well.