Clutch replaced now experiencing problems with shifting
I am having problems after my car warms up or after I drive for a few miles. The problem is that I have to press clutch about half-way down in order to shift. If I press clutch all the way down it won't let me shift or if I press more than half-way up to a certain point it feels like it is not fully engaged(or disengaged?) and when I shift it grinds... I replaced the clutch Master cylinder a little than 2 months ago too. I see no leaks by the clutch pedal or leading up to the Slave master Cylinder. all fluids are full.
the Prior problem prior to me getting the clutch replaced was that the pedal(clutch was stiffer than usual and higher) as well as not being able to shift normally because the operation was working backwards( where I had to slowly press clutch and and gas to go but after the replacement I had the above problem. Could it have been something else besides the clutch ?
I have looked for similar problems but the descriptions don't quite match.
the Prior problem prior to me getting the clutch replaced was that the pedal(clutch was stiffer than usual and higher) as well as not being able to shift normally because the operation was working backwards( where I had to slowly press clutch and and gas to go but after the replacement I had the above problem. Could it have been something else besides the clutch ?
I have looked for similar problems but the descriptions don't quite match.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Adjust the clutch master cylinder. Not sure why there has been a rash of people having issues with this lately.
There's a 12mm nut where the CMC rod connects to the pedal. Unjam that nut. Turn the rod so that you get proper adjustment. It might be hard to turn. Dont use pliers. You can either grab it with a paper towel with a little brake cleaner on it or you can loosen the mounting nuts for the master cylinder till you can easily turn that rod. Dont use pliers or scratch that rod with any tools.
You want about 1/2" to 1" of freeplay at the top of the pedal travel. meaning the pedal should be useless for the first 1/2" to 1". It should just flop freely for that amount of distance.
There's a 12mm nut where the CMC rod connects to the pedal. Unjam that nut. Turn the rod so that you get proper adjustment. It might be hard to turn. Dont use pliers. You can either grab it with a paper towel with a little brake cleaner on it or you can loosen the mounting nuts for the master cylinder till you can easily turn that rod. Dont use pliers or scratch that rod with any tools.
You want about 1/2" to 1" of freeplay at the top of the pedal travel. meaning the pedal should be useless for the first 1/2" to 1". It should just flop freely for that amount of distance.
This won't require bleeding right since none of the fluid parts is removed?
Also why does it only give me a problem after I have driven the car for a while ? Is that just because of the need of an adjustment? Thanks..
Also why does it only give me a problem after I have driven the car for a while ? Is that just because of the need of an adjustment? Thanks..
Last edited by bhergh; Jan 24, 2014 at 07:25 PM. Reason: Added more
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
No...it seems like the CMC rod was way too far out (too tight). I'm guessing there isn't any freeplay at the top of the clutch travel?
What I think is happening is that since the CMC is adjusted so far out, pushing the clutch half way disengages it, but pushing it any more just hyper extends it and pushes the springs into the disc...which in turn engages the disc back into the flywheel while its locked into the pressure plate also.
Try adjusting it and let us know.
What I think is happening is that since the CMC is adjusted so far out, pushing the clutch half way disengages it, but pushing it any more just hyper extends it and pushes the springs into the disc...which in turn engages the disc back into the flywheel while its locked into the pressure plate also.
Try adjusting it and let us know.
Bserious is almost certainly right. The slave cylinder arm is traveling too far and causing you problems. The reason why you are experiencing this is because the CMC was adjusted for a worn clutch, and now your clearances are all different with the new clutch. Just adjust it and enjoy your ride.
Also sometimes there are micro bubbles in the clutch fluid (or even the fluid goes bad and looses its integrity). Micro-bubbles will cause the clutch travel to be drastically different when the temperature fluctuates. The remedy for this is just to bleed the system and replace the fluid. This is probably NOT your problem, but something to keep in mind for general information.
Also sometimes there are micro bubbles in the clutch fluid (or even the fluid goes bad and looses its integrity). Micro-bubbles will cause the clutch travel to be drastically different when the temperature fluctuates. The remedy for this is just to bleed the system and replace the fluid. This is probably NOT your problem, but something to keep in mind for general information.
Yes it was an adjustment.. Thanks again.. Like crx said too it was adjusted for a worn clutch prior..
Clutch still makes noise and is stiffer then before.. Again the problems comes back after I drive for a while... The pedal is okay stiff? I feel that it might damage my clutch again...
I think I wil have to try and bleed the system to see if thy solves it
Clutch still makes noise and is stiffer then before.. Again the problems comes back after I drive for a while... The pedal is okay stiff? I feel that it might damage my clutch again...
I think I wil have to try and bleed the system to see if thy solves it
Last edited by bhergh; Jan 28, 2014 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Problems came back
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Will after a while this is still happening after many different adjustments... I've followed the other guides I have found but yet the problem still occurs... The other day I had it in first and let go of the clutch to see if it would stall and it did not and it to me seems like a free play problem but I'm not sure anymore since I have made adjustments yet this keeps happening no matter how lower high I have adjusted it.. Any other fixes I should try before taking it back to the shop
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
If you let go of the clutch and it doesn't stall...it still seems like it's adjusted way too far out. Go the other way with the adjustment.
The MC rod needs to go into the pedal clevis further.
I would take it to a shop. If the pedal is stiff, you might have problems elsewhere. Clogged lines, out of round slave cyl/piston, etc.
The MC rod needs to go into the pedal clevis further.
I would take it to a shop. If the pedal is stiff, you might have problems elsewhere. Clogged lines, out of round slave cyl/piston, etc.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Ok. I would take the car somewhere that doesn't give it back to you more broken than when you took it to them.
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