Hey honda-tech,
I had my complete stock b18c1 rebuilt couple months ago, I took it to get a quick tune because I was running a base map.
*STOCK EXHAUST MANIFOLD *STOCK INTAKE MANIFOLD *STOCK CAMS

Did a healthy 145whp, 113wtq. w/ Chrome

Couple months later, I finally added a few goodies so I can take it to get a retune. I got excited because I found out Eugene at pro street was doing tunes for 175$
Mods added
AEBS Intake manifold, 65mm tb, Civic type r cams, dsm 440 injectors walbro fuel pump , and a nice aftermarket exhaust manifold.
I was hoping for 180whp, 115wtq+
But ended up with

140whp
103wtq
How can I lose power?

Motors not leaking or burning fuel or overheating.
installed a electric oil pressure gauge, checked out good.
Did a compression test and I got 190-190-175-175
I can see these numbers are low but is there something else that I could be missing?

Eugene(the tuner) said he was having problems with vtec, switching on or off. or something like that. I couldn't really understand him.

Please Honda tech GUIDE ME before I end up tearing this block apart!

 

First you need to find out if Vtec was engaging and staying engaged throughout the powerband. If it's not then that is most likely why you seem to have lost power

 

damn those are low numbers considering that this is pretty much off a rebuilt engine.

back in the days my stock gsr (stock i-h-e- im) just did tune on crome did 157whp & 118tq.


if your motor was just rebuilt. i think you need to go back and talk with your engine builder.
chances are something wasn't done right.
195-175psi on compression test is pretty low.... should be easily 220-230psi if your engine is stockish around 10.1 static cr.


GL

 

Try running a leak down test next to make sure the valves are sealing properly. Might even have a timing issue?

 

double check timing for sure, no special tool needed for that.

leak down test will help to know if somethings off, BUT won't eactly tell you what it wrong... could be seals, rings, valve job...

 

was it a different "dyno" than the first time? Sounds more to me of a calibration, not the engine.

 

I agree. Sounds like it could be a VERY poorly calibrated mustang dyno.

 

220-230 w/ a wet test possibly. Dry a GSR will be around 200.

 

Good morning guys and thanks for replying,

These numbers I got are from a wet test.

- What could cause the Vtec to not stay on? I get NO CEL
-I have not done a leak down test yet
- I think I should take it back to the tuner and pay to have him diagnose the problem first, before I throw money away and rip apart the block.

 

Start with the basics for vtec to work. Oil pressure.
Do you have the O-ring in the center cap on the head?
Is the solenoid screen free of debris and flowing properly?

 

I kinda got the same prob, but mine is a stroker poor mnas, and with blox type c this is what my dyno was.

 

Yes and
I took out the vtec solenoid and cleaned it out already, it wasn't dirty before.
I installed a oil pressure gauge, after driving warmed up. I idle around 18-20
full throttle I get around 70. So everything checks out as far as oil pressure

 

With the vtec cutting in and out I wouldn't be too worried about the number. The number is going to be different on the different dyno anyway. Unless the numbers are from the same dyno, under similar temperatures the numbers won't mean ****.

As for the vtec cutting in and out, its either electronic or mechanical. If the data log says the ecu was sending signal to engage vtec consistently, then you know to inspect the rocker assemblies, vtec solenoid screen etc.

If its electronic the data log should tell you exactly why its kicking out of vtec.

Get vtec sorted. THEN worry about the number 8].

 

I don't understand how you expected to pick up 40whp from a couple mild modifications.

I wouldn't put it past crome for having a VTEC glitch

 

IF those are the numbers you got from a wet test then something is definatley up.would mean your numbers dry would be significantly lower.
who did the rebuidl?

 

What dyno did you use for your original baseline?
Eugenes dyno jet tends to read on the low side which in reality doesn't matter tuning wise but if you are comparing apples to oranges then you will only see minimal gains , eugenes dyno has been a measuring point for so cal for over a decade but keep in mind it is a tuning tool so if you are comparing before and after progress on his dyno then you want to look at the percentage gain and powerband comparison.
The real issue is why is the vtec cutting out? Look at the ECU, the wiring, and all the mechanical factors involved.
On a stock gsr basing numbers off of eugenes dynojet you should see peak somewhere around 136ish whp so once you have sorted out the vtec problems you will have a somewhat close comparison.

 

Defiantly low compression numbers. I just did a compression check on my rebuilt gsr with type r piston after 7k and it was 235-240 across. Have you done a valve lash adjustment?

 

Try swapping your injectors back to stock. You would have been ok on the stock 270cc

 

LMFAO, he says VTEC wasn't working properly. I'd say that could easily be the culprit.

Compression numbers don't mean a whole lot. A weak battery could cause the numbers to be low. They look relatively consistent so I doubt the rebuild should be suspect.

 

Just a thought, your cams went flat on you? It happens. Could explain your vtec and low numbers.