I took my ej1 out to see if i could hit the fuel cutoff. Fuel cutoff for the d16z6 is 7411 revs. I almost hit 8000 revs. do i have to keep the pedal to the floor for it to work? I was scared i would over rev the engine and i only did it by putting it in neutral while doing like 30 (incase i did blow the motor i could coast home, i did it on my street), and revving up to 4 grand, then 7 grand then giving it a bit more. But i hit 8 thousand, and still no BAH BAH BAH, so i stopped and went home. i didn't blow anything while doing it. What is the problem here? MAybe the last owner chipped the ecu? he did a manual tranny swap and an exhaust, so he must have known something about hondas. Maybe he decided to be a ricer and take away the fuel cutoff or even raise it up higher? Somebody please help me. This thread is also in GDD if you want to flame me.

 

open up the ECU and post a pic...probably is tho if you're hitting 8K and I lol'd hard at your story of doing this on your street I bet you're "that obnoxious kid" that revs his little Honda all the time.

 

I said GO TO GDD IF YOU WANT TO FLAME!@!! Jesus. If you want to answer my question, please do. If you want to flame, the thread is there. Here's a link to help you out.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...3190523&page=2

 

I did look again...open up your ECU and see if it's chipped 2nd what ECU is it ?

 

How would i tell? I haven't worked with ecus before. I believe it was the p28.

 

post pic/start a new thread regarding it.

 

 

Do I need to open it up?

I'm assuming to unhook it (believe me I've done google searrches on this before) I simply pull the harness from the side of it and remove the ecu box itself from the footwell? It's not bolted to the floorpan.

 

Yes it's 4 star screws to take the cover off, there will be 3 harness clips just undo them and yah 3 10mm bolts.

 

will there be a dead giveaway that the ecu was modded when i open it? ie what to look for?

 

post a picture of both sides of the ecu once its opened up. my p28 is also chipped. did it myself.

 

If its untouched, it will look like this...


If its chipped, it will look like this...



More than likely you are just forgetting the fack that stock clusters tend to be inaccurate at higher rpm's. Not uncommon for a cluster to read 500-1000 rpm higher once you are near the "red line"

 

I gotta get me that omni replacement tach. Thanks for the pics. On my way to work today I'm gonna try hitting the rev limiter in gear, there's a big long wide road on the way there. i'm not sure I wanna do first gear because of the bad input shaft bearing, and if i do second gear, it will take me up to 64 mph in theory, and the speed limit is 55. This better work. I'm gonna have to keep my eye on the speedo, otherwise that vtech might blast me into orbit

 

Even if it for whatever reason "doesnt work" as you said....its a stock z6 that has power fall before the fuel cut anyways. So really, you taking it to 7411 rpm is pointless. There is absolutely no benefit to it just so you know.

 

Troll thread

 

Since we are on the topic of RPM. What constitutes high RPM?

The reason I ask is the SI cluster I threw in my econo EG has been pretty accurate even up to redline. Then again, my rev limit is 6500 rpm and the tach shows 6500 rpm when I hit it every time.

At what point does the coil overshadow the cam position sensor to the point of bad readings for rpm?

 

Please explane?

 

tomcat39 how'd you'd get a tile lol you've been here just under a year.

 

I'm gonna assume i have the stock ecu. It says P28 on the label. The screws holding the covers on look as old as the ones that were on my old FITV, and when i tried to take those off the heads just twisted off and left the threaded part still in the casing. So I will assume it is untouched.

 

Yeah i was wondering that too... and bswapped, see the part where it says 92-00 troller under his name? How do people put those subtitles there? I've been trying to figure that out...

 

You gotta know someone.

 

Oh **** guys... i just looked at my ECU. it says P28-A52. If my research serves me correctly then i have an auto ecu in my manual car. WTF? MY car was tranny swapped by a previius owner, but do to the passenger side carpet being unattached i always assumed the ecu was swapped too. Will that cause any issues? I have no cels but the cel works. Will the rev limiter still be there? OR will vtec engagement change?

 

I'm sure an AUTO ecu in a manual will cause some greif. it's trying to work a tranny solenoid that's not there.

However it's pretty simple to convert the ecu to manual by removing a resister and adding a jumper or something of the sort. I've read it around here somewhere..... Maybe they already converted it? I would think if they hadn't it would throw a CEL for sure.

As for the title thing..... "George just lucky I guess"

 

Post the ECU pics and everything will be sorted out

 

Was this directed at me for my post?

If so, I've read that Honda Distributors are not performance orientated. On track cars they toss the distributor and put in a different management system due to the tiny signal of the cam position sensor being stomped out by the huge electromagnetic field of the coil. And is why Honda programmed their ECU's to run the motor even when it loses the cam position sensor input. I was under the impression the tach runs or gets it's RPM readings from this sensor input.