So I went and got a dyno tune yesterday. Very repitable tunner in Garland did the tune. So here is my set up.
Gsr block 82.00 bore
ls crank, eagle rods, nippon b16 pistons
B16a head with blox spring and retainers
rc 440 cc injectors, walbro 255
Blox type c cams
new oem valves and bronze guides
type r intake, 68 mm tb
dc header 4-2-1
exhuast is 2.5 back
exeady stage 1 clutch
exeady 10 lb flywheel

so yeah I made 134 hp and 111 tq
soon as vtec hit blam it would fall on its ***
we tried from 4500 all the way up to 6500 for vtec still same thing maybe 1 hp more
another thing was we could not get the timing on 16
cams set at 0.0 tuner figured it was the 440 rc injectors, so I put stock 240 injectors in and still nothing. No matter how much fuel taken out or added no real hp change. I will see if I can get the dyno chart sent to me, but Im guessing cams are crap. Everything else checks out, new dizzy runs great, idle is perfect just not producing power. Any suggestions. Also question if I have blox valve train, can I run some different cams besides blox? I understand there are restrictions on my car like header and 2.5 exaust, but it is better then stock and I should be making more then 134 hp.
made about

 

Is your timing correct?

 

yeah we re did the time 2 times and had the dizzy advanced all the way and still was not on 16 deg, it was on the last line of the 3 so what about 20 deg, replaced dizzy with known working one, timing check cams 0.0 hit vtec bam nothing, just a bewwwwwww vtec sound lol., vtec is good as far as all that goes mechanical wise.

 

So VTEC does work?

 

you need to degree the cams. find the cam card and get them degreed then put it on the dyno and make adjustments from their.

 

He's been in touch with me throughout this situation. His issue is cam timing. He's only able to reach about 14 degrees on the crank mark, with his dizzy all the way advanced, which is saying the lobe centers are off.

I'm not going to comment on what was done on the dyno because i do not know, i do know that cam timing surely wasn't done correctly, i'd recommend starting with that first, if the low cam is fine, and when it hits vtec there's an issue, and vtec is infact working, its going to be a cam timing issue. The car just needs some proper time with cam gear tuning and it'll be fine.

I'd like to know the health of the engine, engine compression test and leakdown test.

Was the head shaved any?

I'd look at possibly trying to degree the C's, they are a replica of a JUNIII camshaft, or suppose to be, but we all know what off brands tend to do.

 

Yes DDTECH has been helping me out alot, the head was not shaved, vtec does work. Im waiting on them to email me the map and the first and last dyno chart. You hear the cross over when vtec hits, but its hitting a wall and the dip is like pretty bad. Vic at the tuner shop ran about 20 to 25 runs on this engine and it makes power till it hits vtec. Fisrt thing they did was set the cams to 0.0 and checked timing, mechanical timing was on point but had to advance all the way to get 14 deg. Then we had no spark and found out my wires were bad so they hooked me up with some ngk. Now we have spark and re checked timing, still 14. Decided to try to tune, car runs smooth and you can see the power climing on the graph till vtec. vtec hits, then drop then it climbs back up. Tuner was reving to about 8500. idle is smooth, and we decided that the injectors were not good, they are rc 440, so I put the stock injectors in and we went from 130-134 hp. when i first built the engine compression was 220 across the board if im not mistaken. I then had to change out the oil sqt with ge plugs, have not done a compression test since then. now as far as headers, and 2.5 back I have dc 421 which they feel would hold some hp back, also my intake piping is on 2.5 on a 68mm tb. engine is solid.

 

I will try to do a leak down and compression test,. but I can promise that it was good. Derek you remember when we first talked and I had the gsr cams in, it ran alot better felt like stock gsr. I really think it is the cam timing as well, now the shop is awesome and the guys are great up there. They and I have never seen an egnine with this build only make 134. oh and Derek it was 115 and 111 tq with your remote tune.

 

Yea.. something off :^/

 

oil pressure?

 

i got the map if anybody wants to look at it. Got a check engine light code 13, over heating. fun fun.

 

Post a screen shot of it ... Temp sensor working ?

 

You say your vtec is working but have you verified that you are getting sufficient oil pressure for engagement? Have you checked the center cap for the dowel and oring or checked the vtec solenoid screen for debris? We have had plenty of people on the dyno with similar issues and turned out to be something simple. start there just to rule it out.

 

I am only replying because i am using those exact cams and let me tell you that with an Unshaved head 0,0 on the cams is a foolproof setting. On my recent retune i made 240 Crank HP with cams still set at 0.0 . What's really weird is your Dizzy Issue, Is the dizzy OEM honda ? or some cheap replacement part ?
if it is the later they do tend to have HUGE variation. Could be that you possible have a wrong P/N rotor and its messing your timing. If i were you i would try Stock Cam Gears and a known good working dizzy.

 

^I am running the type c's, I was going to degree them in but blox does not provide the specs needed on their website. All the provide is how much to advance or retard the intake and exhaust cams. So I did that as a base line, and will figure out exactly how much to add or take away on the dyno. Car pulls good, cams really come alive at 7,000 rpms.

Hope we can get to the bottom as to wtf is wrong with yours, like someone said check the little stuff first, then move to more complex things, definitely figure out that cam timing.

 

Interesting.. I have a car that's using Type C's and didn't experience any timing issues. And the cams are at 0,0. I do plan on degreeing the cams soon enough, but as previously mentioned there are no degree specs. Blox did provide degree specs for their P2 cams as I've installed and degreed two sets already.

 

Awesome thanks guys, yeah I got the dizzy off ebay, and I have used same place before. I will change out this one for a known working one, solenoid screen is clean the oring is there. When I had gsr cams in, it was better I mean it hit vtec and you could feel the cross over. Im really thinking it is the cams. Im going to source out some stock cams and drop them in and see if that changes. Working on getting a screen shot.

 

 

if temp sensor was not working would it give a cel?

 

Ok, so here is the dyno sheet, bloue is last run and red is first run.

 

anybody got any ideas?

 

 

It would be nice to see the timing charts from the tune as a reference.

 

timing charts, where doi find that, you mean on the s300?