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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 11:20 AM
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Default decisions decisions turbo or other

Heya guys i own a jdm bb4 with a h22a . And I cant decide between getting a full turbo build. Or between some good ethsteics and small performance increases. Like carbon fiver wing and hood and putting the extra money into other things for now. How much extra horse power could someone get for 4 thousand $$$ (Canadian) aprox?
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 11:45 AM
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Default Re: decisions decisions turbo or other

Originally Posted by dothecoolwip
Heya guys i own a jdm bb4 with a h22a . And I cant decide between getting a full turbo build. Or between some good ethsteics and small performance increases. Like carbon fiver wing and hood and putting the extra money into other things for now. How much extra horse power could someone get for 4 thousand $$$ (Canadian) aprox?
Money is only relative to the amount of work you can do you're self. If you are paying a shop it will cost a lot more obviously.

$4K can get you a decently "reliable" 250whp boosted set up if you do it right.
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Sparksman
Money is only relative to the amount of work you can do you're self. If you are paying a shop it will cost a lot more obviously.

$4K can get you a decently "reliable" 250whp boosted set up if you do it right.

Do you mean 250 total whp or a boosted whp of 250
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 10:38 PM
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Default Re: decisions decisions turbo or other

Originally Posted by dothecoolwip
Do you mean 250 total whp or a boosted whp of 250
umm... what do you mean? whats the difference?
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Sparksman
umm... what do you mean? whats the difference?
Sorry im new to this whole thing. Whp is the total horse power supplied to your wheeels.
Right now I have about 190 whp so im asking will I achieve 250 whp after turbo or
440 whp?
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 12:48 PM
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Default Re: decisions decisions turbo or other

Originally Posted by dothecoolwip
Sorry im new to this whole thing. Whp is the total horse power supplied to your wheeels.
Right now I have about 190 whp so im asking will I achieve 250 whp after turbo or
440 whp?
If you a stock plain jdm h22a you have maybe 180whp, if the h22a1 more around 170whp both give or take.

There are 2 HP ratings, 1 called crank HP CHP, also called Flywheel FHP, or Break HP BHP. All the same, means power without a transmission.

Then there is 2 called wheel-HP WHP, for obvious reasons.

When talking power there is also peak power, and power under curve. The car with the most HP doesnt always win, or isnt the fastest.

If you have a 1000hp car you're not using 1000hp all the time, in fact you are only using it in the last few thousand rpm's before you shift. You gain HP the higher you Rpm's go until you hit you're peak power rev point. Rpm's dont = HP though, dont get that confused.

Im guessing at this point you're new to spinning wrenches so the best advice is keep reading and reading and reading. You cant get more then 300WHP out of a h22 without completely building it going turbo. I say 250WHP to be more "reliable".
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 02:03 PM
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Default Re: decisions decisions turbo or other

I would say 300whp is enough on a FWD car to have fun. You will be spinning tires in 1st, 2nd, and even 3rd gear. But on a stock block it won't last long... if you're going to turbo, then build the bottom end to handle it, which will end up costing around $10K for the whole shebang done right (building, parts, tuning, gauges, etc.)

If you're not prepared to drop $10K then walk away! Or it will end up costing more later... and even then, **** can happen. I thought I could put together a great turbo and make the stock block last. I put a J&S safeguard to prevent detonation, AEM meth kit for added octane boost and cooling, and ran no more than 10psi. Well, the problem was my brand new Turbonetics turbo decided to take a **** and the compressor wheel grinded against the housing causing all kinds of metal bits to go thru the engine. Even a built engine wouldn't be able to handle that... now I'm running a Precision turbo and no problems at all.
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 08:02 PM
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Default Re: decisions decisions turbo or other

have you looked into spray at all? im highly considering a 100ish shot for my bb6 with a pretty much fresh engine
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Sparksman
If you a stock plain jdm h22a you have maybe 180whp, if the h22a1 more around 170whp both give or take.

There are 2 HP ratings, 1 called crank HP CHP, also called Flywheel FHP, or Break HP BHP. All the same, means power without a transmission.

Then there is 2 called wheel-HP WHP, for obvious reasons.

When talking power there is also peak power, and power under curve. The car with the most HP doesnt always win, or isnt the fastest.

If you have a 1000hp car you're not using 1000hp all the time, in fact you are only using it in the last few thousand rpm's before you shift. You gain HP the higher you Rpm's go until you hit you're peak power rev point. Rpm's dont = HP though, dont get that confused.

Im guessing at this point you're new to spinning wrenches so the best advice is keep reading and reading and reading. You cant get more then 300WHP out of a h22 without completely building it going turbo. I say 250WHP to be more "reliable".
Thank you it really means alot for information ... and no one being complete *** holes so thank you for all the input ill be doing alot of reading . If you have any specific websites / material you would suggest that be amazing.
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by White98SH
I would say 300whp is enough on a FWD car to have fun. You will be spinning tires in 1st, 2nd, and even 3rd gear. But on a stock block it won't last long... if you're going to turbo, then build the bottom end to handle it, which will end up costing around $10K for the whole shebang done right (building, parts, tuning, gauges, etc.)

If you're not prepared to drop $10K then walk away! Or it will end up costing more later... and even then, **** can happen. I thought I could put together a great turbo and make the stock block last. I put a J&S safeguard to prevent detonation, AEM meth kit for added octane boost and cooling, and ran no more than 10psi. Well, the problem was my brand new Turbonetics turbo decided to take a **** and the compressor wheel grinded against the housing causing all kinds of metal bits to go thru the engine. Even a built engine wouldn't be able to handle that... now I'm running a Precision turbo and no problems at all.
As well thank you for giving me input and giving me a real life example any advice is hood advice and didnt think that be enough to spin in 3rd gear but if it is it makes me very happy
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by gzes
have you looked into spray at all? im highly considering a 100ish shot for my bb6 with a pretty much fresh engine
Is the product called *spray it all* care to explain
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 09:00 AM
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Default Re: decisions decisions turbo or other

:facepalm:

Spray = Nitrous.

Start reading the FAQ section in here please. Most if not all of your questions can be answered there.
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