decisions decisions turbo or other
Heya guys i own a jdm bb4 with a h22a . And I cant decide between getting a full turbo build. Or between some good ethsteics and small performance increases. Like carbon fiver wing and hood and putting the extra money into other things for now. How much extra horse power could someone get for 4 thousand $$$ (Canadian) aprox?
Heya guys i own a jdm bb4 with a h22a . And I cant decide between getting a full turbo build. Or between some good ethsteics and small performance increases. Like carbon fiver wing and hood and putting the extra money into other things for now. How much extra horse power could someone get for 4 thousand $$$ (Canadian) aprox?
$4K can get you a decently "reliable" 250whp boosted set up if you do it right.
There are 2 HP ratings, 1 called crank HP CHP, also called Flywheel FHP, or Break HP BHP. All the same, means power without a transmission.
Then there is 2 called wheel-HP WHP, for obvious reasons.
When talking power there is also peak power, and power under curve. The car with the most HP doesnt always win, or isnt the fastest.
If you have a 1000hp car you're not using 1000hp all the time, in fact you are only using it in the last few thousand rpm's before you shift. You gain HP the higher you Rpm's go until you hit you're peak power rev point. Rpm's dont = HP though, dont get that confused.
Im guessing at this point you're new to spinning wrenches so the best advice is keep reading and reading and reading. You cant get more then 300WHP out of a h22 without completely building it going turbo. I say 250WHP to be more "reliable".
I would say 300whp is enough on a FWD car to have fun. You will be spinning tires in 1st, 2nd, and even 3rd gear. But on a stock block it won't last long... if you're going to turbo, then build the bottom end to handle it, which will end up costing around $10K for the whole shebang done right (building, parts, tuning, gauges, etc.)
If you're not prepared to drop $10K then walk away! Or it will end up costing more later... and even then, **** can happen. I thought I could put together a great turbo and make the stock block last. I put a J&S safeguard to prevent detonation, AEM meth kit for added octane boost and cooling, and ran no more than 10psi. Well, the problem was my brand new Turbonetics turbo decided to take a **** and the compressor wheel grinded against the housing causing all kinds of metal bits to go thru the engine. Even a built engine wouldn't be able to handle that... now I'm running a Precision turbo and no problems at all.
If you're not prepared to drop $10K then walk away! Or it will end up costing more later... and even then, **** can happen. I thought I could put together a great turbo and make the stock block last. I put a J&S safeguard to prevent detonation, AEM meth kit for added octane boost and cooling, and ran no more than 10psi. Well, the problem was my brand new Turbonetics turbo decided to take a **** and the compressor wheel grinded against the housing causing all kinds of metal bits to go thru the engine. Even a built engine wouldn't be able to handle that... now I'm running a Precision turbo and no problems at all.
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If you a stock plain jdm h22a you have maybe 180whp, if the h22a1 more around 170whp both give or take.
There are 2 HP ratings, 1 called crank HP CHP, also called Flywheel FHP, or Break HP BHP. All the same, means power without a transmission.
Then there is 2 called wheel-HP WHP, for obvious reasons.
When talking power there is also peak power, and power under curve. The car with the most HP doesnt always win, or isnt the fastest.
If you have a 1000hp car you're not using 1000hp all the time, in fact you are only using it in the last few thousand rpm's before you shift. You gain HP the higher you Rpm's go until you hit you're peak power rev point. Rpm's dont = HP though, dont get that confused.
Im guessing at this point you're new to spinning wrenches so the best advice is keep reading and reading and reading. You cant get more then 300WHP out of a h22 without completely building it going turbo. I say 250WHP to be more "reliable".
There are 2 HP ratings, 1 called crank HP CHP, also called Flywheel FHP, or Break HP BHP. All the same, means power without a transmission.
Then there is 2 called wheel-HP WHP, for obvious reasons.
When talking power there is also peak power, and power under curve. The car with the most HP doesnt always win, or isnt the fastest.
If you have a 1000hp car you're not using 1000hp all the time, in fact you are only using it in the last few thousand rpm's before you shift. You gain HP the higher you Rpm's go until you hit you're peak power rev point. Rpm's dont = HP though, dont get that confused.
Im guessing at this point you're new to spinning wrenches so the best advice is keep reading and reading and reading. You cant get more then 300WHP out of a h22 without completely building it going turbo. I say 250WHP to be more "reliable".
it really means alot for information ... and no one being complete *** holes
so thank you for all the input ill be doing alot of reading . If you have any specific websites / material you would suggest that be amazing.
I would say 300whp is enough on a FWD car to have fun. You will be spinning tires in 1st, 2nd, and even 3rd gear. But on a stock block it won't last long... if you're going to turbo, then build the bottom end to handle it, which will end up costing around $10K for the whole shebang done right (building, parts, tuning, gauges, etc.)
If you're not prepared to drop $10K then walk away! Or it will end up costing more later... and even then, **** can happen. I thought I could put together a great turbo and make the stock block last. I put a J&S safeguard to prevent detonation, AEM meth kit for added octane boost and cooling, and ran no more than 10psi. Well, the problem was my brand new Turbonetics turbo decided to take a **** and the compressor wheel grinded against the housing causing all kinds of metal bits to go thru the engine. Even a built engine wouldn't be able to handle that... now I'm running a Precision turbo and no problems at all.
If you're not prepared to drop $10K then walk away! Or it will end up costing more later... and even then, **** can happen. I thought I could put together a great turbo and make the stock block last. I put a J&S safeguard to prevent detonation, AEM meth kit for added octane boost and cooling, and ran no more than 10psi. Well, the problem was my brand new Turbonetics turbo decided to take a **** and the compressor wheel grinded against the housing causing all kinds of metal bits to go thru the engine. Even a built engine wouldn't be able to handle that... now I'm running a Precision turbo and no problems at all.
and didnt think that be enough to spin in 3rd gear but if it is it makes me very happy
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