Current motor is a jdm 2000 spec b20b, Dyno'd at 141hp 131tq

Im trying to get to 200 with out spending an excessive amount of money...
For a all motor set up what head would be best also...

 

Are willing to touch the bottom end ? if so it's SUPER easy and pretty cheap to push 200whp I'm at 247/163 but it's got a fair bit into it $ wise. unless turbo'd which isn't "cheap" you'll have a hard time seeing 200whp N/A stock bottom end. can post up my parts list if you'd like get an idea. ideally a type r head

 

I will have around 1500 to play with...im not vtec yet so im probably not going to see those numbers

WHats your list set up

 

85x89mm, 12:1 c/r pistons, eagle rods, pro 1 cams, ultra series manifold,74mm tb w/custom intake, grams 550cc injectors, plm big-tube header, 3'' exhaust. tuned on Hondata.

what you can do is get the ultra series mani a good header and a tune with 1.5K and have some money left over for itr/ctr cams you'd probably pushed 170+whp

 

I have JDM FGK jasma Header 2.25 Piping So What Brand Is that Ultra Series Mani and No valve Train? with the cams?

 

Skunk2 they released it mid last year, yah I've upgraded that I was just giving the basics lol there's lots more like flat valves etc. I'd ditch that header and go 3'' eventually for the exhaust. not bad numbers for non-vtec b20 tho

 

B20 block
ITR rep pistons
ARP Rod Bolts
B16 Head
Light Port work
CTR/ITR cams
B16 P30 Intake Manifold
60mm+ Throttle body
GOOD header (RMF, Toda, etc.)


And most important, a GREAT tune. That combo should get you to 200 to the wheels pretty easily. And it should come in right around your 1500 budget.

 

Yeah maybe but i will need to pay for labor


im going to buy a Skunk 2 manifold and TB with Cams And Valve Train see what happens

 

Like everyone said a vtec head with the basic bolt-on and a good tune and you eill surely be in the 200 mark.

 

That manifold is WAY too much for a stock block B20.

And those cams will most likely hit the pistons. You cannot run anything bigger than ITR/CTR cams on stock B20 pistons. And even if you could, you wouldnt have the compression to support them. The real secret behind making power with the B20 is the ITR rep pistons. That takes a 170-180whp motor to over the 200whp mark and beyond.

 

the thing is i cant afford to work on the block. if i was vtec already....then i would upgrade pistions and rods....

what im focusing on is getting a nice vtec conversion with good numbers

GSR head with What Manifold? a Stock GSR manifold? And what Cams SHoould i run with the GSR head and would i need to upgrade my fuel rain and injectorS?

Trying to be smart and not spend stupid if its going to hurt me instead of help my power

 

You cant afford to work on the block, but you can spend over a grand on a manifold and cams???

ITR rep pistons - $200
Machine work - $250 MAX
New bearings - $120 (ACL Race)
New oem oil pump - $120

So around $700. Then all you need is a B16 head. Hell, even GSR cams should put you above 200whp with the ITR rep pistons, and that will save a ton over CTR/ITR cams. Then get a P30 intake manifold, a decent sized throttle body (60mm+) and a GOOD header (TODA or RMF rep).

 

I'm going to take your advice and look in to this path, thanks i will keep you guys updated with the build and dyno results

 

Labor will run me 600 , and the tune will cost me 200

right around my budget...but that wont include the IM or TB I'll see what i can do

 

Don't forget to account for the cost of engine management (Hondata, Chrome, Neptune etc.) and the time on the dyno.

That is going to a be somewhat costly but is THE single most important factor to not only getting the power you are looking for, but also to ensure it will make that power reliably.

The more i think about it you may have a tough time hitting 200whp on 1500 bucks. You might need to do it in stages.

I would start with the vtec head conversion as it produces the horsepower per dollar spent.

 

200$ for a tune ? lol not even once you get what you pay for, and the last thing you want is a bad tune with already thin b20 sleeves.

 

Here's the setup for my buddy's b20vtec that I tuned. It's pretty much simple setup and made 200whp 154 trq. Dyno jet dyno was used.

B20z stock bottom end
B16a stock port upgraded valvetrain.
Itr cams
Custom made Turbo style header
Hondata CPR kit
Id2000 injectors-going turbo soon
Custom cold air intake
Old version skunk2 intake manifold
Tuned on e85

 

This is entirely false. I have two friends running buddy club 3+ cams on a stock b20 block and at the same time, making good power while being reliable. A p30 manifold is too small to do anything.

 

OPEN, start with a gsr head and maybe itr cams if found for cheap. Pr3 is nice but in stock form, gsr will be a better choice (excluding itr head). For daily drive usage use AEBS intake manifold(found on eBay for cheap) for either head with no bigger than 65mm throttle body. If not ITR/CTR, try a stage 1 cam with less than 11.8mm lift. Tri y header or toda replica header would be a good choice. A cheap valve train would be rocket motorsports springs with 14765-prb-a00 k20 retainers from this site↓↓↓

http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/o...5-PRB-A00.html

If you need injector just use h22 345cc ones, they'll be able to support what you want on 93 octane.

 

nah man b20 sleeves arent thin, its the material they're made of that's not as good others. it still is good though..

the pic below is a b20 at 85mm. its not as thin as people make it out to be. also a way to strenghten it is use a blockguard.

 

this a k20 stock sleeve and what would be considered thin

 

B20 sleeves aren't weak. This Fucken misinformation is so Damn annoying.
The Material the sleeves are made of, make them more prone to crack at Low rpm/HIGH LOAD due to knock.

Meaning if you're in 5th gear @ 2k rpms and you MASH the gas all the way, yea, its going to ping and yea, it's probably going to cause issues. I've Tuned a lot of stock sleeved setups and haven't had any issues.

When properly tuned, no matter what, the setup doesn't matter.

 

What are they made of ? oppose to the a typical c1/c5 sleeves or an ls block. thought they were cast iron/steel ? I've been worried about my set up (85mm 12:1) on stock sleeves.

 

The B20 uses a monolithic sleeve that encompasses all four cylinders.
The LS/GSR block utilizes individual cast-in sleeves.

I'm on 85MM stock sleeves, 12.5CR. I daily drove this setup for awhile before it got switched to a all out race car. I also have had a 100 shot on top of my NA setup for the last 3 months. I just put the pills in for a 175, stock sleeves.

Jason Lumpkin is still on stock sleeves and he currently is the fastest NA B series 85x92 is his setup.

Tuning is important and cheaping out is why people get the bad misinformation on how b20 sleeves are weak.

 

Stock pistons?

And yes, a P30 is smaller than all the aftermarket manifolds, but it will also have a better low-mid range torque curve than most aftermarket manifolds. Not everyone wants the power in the last 2k rpm.