I have a 96 civic cx hatchback, recently swapped in a b18b1. The battery was fried so i bought a new one, and i go to turn the key over (cluster lights up/fuel pump primes) and when i turn it to crank the engine there is no response. The only thing i noticed was the light for the A/C turned off when i tried to crank the engine. Please help! Much appreciated. Cheers

Update 1/12

Just swapped the TPS and MAP connecters because RonJ said they were switched, and also preformed CKF bypass trick. Reset the ecu, and looked at my CEL, which was only throwing a code for my IAT (wierd, because i dont have my o2 sensors plugged in yet). Then, fired up the motor and the revs shot up again. Looked at the CEL and now im throwing a code 7, which is for my TPS. Not sure what to do next

 

Any cel lights? Did you short anything resulting in blown fuses?

 

When i turn the key to (II) position, the CEL comes on and stays on but so do the battery and oil light, does this mean i have a CEL? How would i know if i shorted anything?

 

Check whether the clutch pedal rubber stopper fell out.

Also press the switch button in and check whether the engine will crank.

 

@Ron
The rubber stopper that sits near the slave cylinder? Not quite sure.

Also, not sure what switch you're talking about either.

 

The switch at the top of the clutch pedal (switch A) presses on a rubber stopper.

 

Ok perfect so i put that back together, it cranks now. But, it turns on for a few seconds then dies, could this be that my throttle isn't open enough? i replaced the throttle cable while preforming the swap.

 

Pull the CEL code.

 

Does it have fuel pressure? I would spray starting fluid at the throtle body in short spurts after startup to see if you can keep it going. If yes, fuel pump/relay/issue possible culprit.

 

I tried pulling the CEL earlier, I don't have a scanner but i do have a paper clip. I've never actually done this before, do I just jimmy it in there until it stays or what?

 

Short the two terminals of the service connector any way you want. A paperclip is fine.

 

Indeed. Short the two wires on the loose connector by the ecu. The cel light will start flashing.

Count the flashes. Long pauses is 10 quick ones are 1.

 

Just pulled the CEL's, results are: 3, 10, 41, 54, 65

3 - Map Sensor
10 - IAT (Not plugged in, no intake)
41 - Primary O2 (Not plugged in)
54 - CKF (Haven't done this operation yet)
65 - Secondary O2 (Not plugged in)

All of these besides CEL 3 were expected, because I haven't taken care of them yet. I was just trying to see if my car would start and idle properly.

So is my MAP sensor faulty?

 

Fix the CEL codes. To get the engine to start and run, start with the MAP and CKF codes. But why stop there? Just fix them all.

This^ information REALLY should have been mentioned in the first post.

 

So by throwing a CEL for my map sensor, does that mean that i should replace it? Any kind of test i can do? I don't know if this has anything to do with it but, when trying to crank the engine sometimes instead of idling for a few seconds then dying, it would just rev extremely high. Could this be from the MAP or a throttle issue?

 

Reset the ECU and crank the engine for 30 seconds or until it runs. Then pull the codes again. Post them.

 

High revs is almost always a big vac leak.

 

Same codes, just did this.

 

How did you reset the ECU?

 

Took out the back-up 7.5A fuse from the under hood fuse box for 3 mins.

 

What are the colors of the 3 wires in the MAP sensor connector? Posting a picture would be best.

 

Yellow-Blue
Red-Black
Green-Black

Pretty sure thats what I saw.

 

That's the TPS connector. You may have sensor connectors swapped.

What ECU?

 

FML. Yeah I'll swap them and post results. Could this be the cause of the revs spiking when i start the car?

Obd2A p75

 

Make sure that each sensor connector (wire colors) matches the sensor.