My hope is to get ~210whp. I want type s pistons (I don't want to resleave), P&P, probably skunk 2 stage 2 or 3 cams + valve train. MSD ignition. Besides the basic boltons and VAFC, I want to upgrade the intake manifold and TB. If possible, I would like to make power up to 8k rpm, and have fuel cut off ~8500 rpm. I know the stock crank can take this but what about the stock rods and bearings?

 

turbo or nitrous, get boost, be happy. I think if your're shooting for 210 that the resleeve might be a must, plus something more than the VAFC for tuning, especially with stage 3 cams if you go that route.

 

You could just have your stock rods shot peened...they would be fine for 210whp I would expect. But $$ buys peace of mind...

 

... but they wouldn't handle 8500rpm. The rods would egg in no time.

 

I want all motor damnit! If I do go NO2 it wouldn't be more than a 75 shot, at which point I would definately get the rods and bearings, but I was just wondering if stock would be good without NO2.

 

Oh yeah? Well no wonder my engine is fucked


[Modified by satan_srv, 4:21 PM 10/28/2002]

 

I thought you were keeping the rpm's low. I told you, there's no way you could rev to 8500 rpms with stock rods, especially with an H23 crank in there.

Your rods probably nice and oval, like these:

http://www.higginstribe.com/gallery/derek/

I'm guessing you already decided it was a spun bearing? That's why all this new crank talk. It would explain the rattling noise.


[Modified by DirtyLude, 4:33 PM 10/28/2002]

 

Ummm yeahhhhhh that explains it...yeah I kept the revs low...but egging the rods can happen over time right? Like I think I hit 8000 once but I'm sure Richard had hit it a bunch of times.... ?? Dammit I was blaming the rods the from the beginning...weak stock stuff....even with shot peening

 

Damn, those are some scary pics!

I guess I'd better get the rods just to be on the safe side. Which one to get though? type s or other, like eagle?

BTW, what the hell are you or your friend doing to that dog? (jk)

 

How were you going to raise your rev limit anyway?

 

I don't understand what you mean by the last part of your post.

If you did do a 75 shot, you would be right at your magic HP number, and with correct fuel upgrades be reliable. You could also go for a progressive controller, that would let you still benefit from the ATTS, without it shutting off at the launch. Plus with the on/off feature of nitrous, you can still get the nice mileage, emissions, and comfort during daily, non-severe driving.

As for rods, just go for straight overkill :
http://www.paeco.com/conrods.html

If you go FI or NA your're going to have to give up some of those comforts you like, like ATTS,passing emissions, and reliabilty. And 210 NA isn't exactly a stone's throw away.


[Modified by mackymcg, 5:02 PM 10/28/2002]

 

Neither of those guys is me, I'm taking the picture. The rods belong to the guy on the right.

Either Eagle rods, or Crower Econo rods. Both are fine for NA and will take pretty heavy inertial loads. They're both about the same price.

Don't forget about the head. Running stage 3 cams at high rpms is very hard on the valvetrain.

 

you'll have to get new springs, retainers, and alot of other small bits to handle higher rpm's. I know one reason the CR-V/B16 hyrbid sucks is because you can't revv it out much since the CR-V's crank isn't balanced that well. You'd want to make sure your's is pretty much blueprinted and balanced well. my guess is the oil pump would need to be upgraded to a higher flow or something to keep the engine lubed... what rpm are you looking for anyhow?

 

Macky - the last part of my statement was regarding the stock rods with NO2. As for emissions, I'm exempt 5 years, but after that it could be a problem. What do you think of skunk2 stage 1 cams? they just got CARB exempt, SO while I was putting in those I could swap it the stronger rods to deal with the NO2, and still be safe with the valvetrain right? I don't think the 210 whp would affect atts, but a standalone engine management system would

 

That funny my brothers B20/Vtec spins 8000-8500 and runs prefectly fine, So it isn't that.

 

What rods.

 

i dog the **** out of my LS/VTEC all the time, shift at 8k+ RPMs daily..... stock LS rods too

 

daily? well don't expect to have that thing for much longer. Any car driven like that daily will die early, unless you want to rebuild it often. BTW> you're not going by the factory tach are you? it lies. 8000 rpm on it is really only like 7600 rpm. And about the CR-V/B16.. the CR-V crank isn't designed for higher rpms, and a slight weight imbalance will cause a much nastier affect at higher rpms

 

yes, daily, it was never meant to be my daily driver though, it was built to be a race car, but unfortunatly, my lude is taking a nap right now, so yes, i beat the **** out of my teg daily, 6k miles on it so sar, and still runs incredible strong, to be honest, the rings never seated properly, and i'd hate to imagine how well it run if it didn't burn al that oil.

 

Let's also remember that LS/VTEC is running a significantly smaller/lighter piston and a shorter stroke. The H series bottom ends seem to be made of glass when compared to most B series motors, they just don't take to increased RPM the same way.

 

Eagle rods..

 

well the strok on an LS is 89mm...less than H22a and with the lighter piston it makes sense that it should handle 8000....

oh my poor rods

 

You mean less than the H23. The H22 has an 87.2mm stroke. I think the pistons have a huge part to play here, the H23 pistons have a taller compression height than the B18's and they are 6mm larger in diameter. And of course the unmentioned r/s ratio difference .

 

Really? I though the stroke of the H22a was 90.7mm...cause with your numbers the H22a would only displace 2.073 litres


[Modified by satan_srv, 9:38 PM 10/28/2002]

 

Jesus, of course you're right. I've been doing too much math with these numbers, it's all starting to blend together!

The B18C1 is 87.2 mm.

BTW satan, have you thought at all about offsetting the piston pin with some custom pistons to reduce rod angularity w/ an H22 crank? Might be more beneficial overall than trying to find an obscure F20B crank.


[Modified by texan, 6:47 PM 10/28/2002]