I was adjusting my valves on my wife's 98 crv and the #3 exhaust valve is stuck up. I tried pushing it down with a flat screw driver and did go down with tension but came back all the way up being stuck. This is preventing me from specking the accurate clearance. The other exhaust valve was cake and adjusted without any issues.
WTF is up with that?

 

Anyone got any feedback?

 

are you talking about the lash adjuster or the actual valve its self?

 

Its the lash valve adjustment, sorry about that. Consulted with a Honda Technician last night, skip it, complete the entire cycle and leave for last.
Im got a b20b4 DHCH, going off the specs that are located on the inside wall of the hood:
Intake 0.08 - 0.12 mm (0.003 - 0.005 in)
Exhaust 0.16 - 0.20 mm (0.006 - 0.008 in)

#3 is kicking my ***

 

#4 exhaust is kicking my ***. Don't understand, both exhaust valve are also stuck. Am I missing the TDC, or the up stoke?
2,4,3,1, starting with #1 on the driver side.
WTF?
Help, help!

Ive done this job twice before on this crv, so don't think this is my first time a the rodeo.

 

pull them out and clean them

 

What do you mean by taking them out/off and clean them?

 

I use a wooden dowel (broom handle piece) and a hammer to tap lightly on the valve adjuster to cycle the valve up/down. This will abruptly move and allow you to hear if the valve is fully seating (a distinct thunk sound) when closed after each tap.
It should happen rapidly and sound the same each wack. If the valve is not pulling up (seating) every time, you have another issue with the guide.
Don't be mad, make sure it's on the base circle of the cam (NO LIFT) before adjusting.

 

K, this is da deal, wife needs the car for work tomorrow morning and this is how its gonna go down. Im gonna compress the valve down, separating the rocker arm to give me room for my feeler gage to fit in tight as crap, tighten locknut, then press down the valve to pull the feeler gage out.
Give me the pros and cons, its my only options at the moment.

 

K, I will test this method. Base? you mean to say the cam needs to be off the lobes?
BRB, will post up my results.
What do you think about my last post?

 

Yes, cam needs to be off the lobes to adjust lash.
I'm not sure what you mean by your last post? It (feeler gage) needs to be snug and movable, not tight .

 

Im gonna compress the valve down, separating the rocker arm to give me room for my feeler gage to fit in tight as crap, tighten locknut, then press down the valve to pull the feeler gage out.

 

Could not adjust the exhaust valves, 6 out of 8 and they are making a laud clicking noise. I was able to remove the rocker arm and reinstalled it. I tried opening the adjuster to max and I don't have any room for the feeler gage, so I have to compress the valve for the rocker arm to detach from the valve. This is weird.

 

^^

IDK if I read this thread correctly..

But that last post made me think your doing it worng.


Didnt B20's have collapsing valve seats or something... I cant remember this early in the morning.

 

^ agreed, they had a massive recall on them, sounds like the seats burried themselves into the head. Why are you adjusting them? Maintenance or are you having problems?

 

Thanks for getting at me. This valve adjustment is strictly for maintenance purposes, I'm aware of recall and burned valve issues. Been there done that. Headed south for thanks giving, Sacramento to San Diego, did a basic tune up for da1k miles plus trip. No issues, even did a cylinder compression test, 150 - 156 psi clear across. It was a good trip, average 430 miles a tank, good respond climbing the grape vine, no loss of power.
Though my crv showed no symptoms of any valve issues, I was thinking I should adjust the valves as soon as possible, its been a good six years since they were adjusted. And yes, I had a burned #3 exhaust valve, took the head off & took in myself to a reputable machine shop.
So this is da deal, # 3,4,2 exhaust vales are super dupper tight, the lobs are off the rocker arms and spring head and I still got no room between the rocker arm & the cam. Its seems like they are stuck with spring compression in the up position.

 

EsotericImage, in what way do u think I'm doing da wrong way? I'm open to any suggestions at this point.
Thanks

 

Hello, anyone?

 

Silly question but you are putting the feeler gauge between the lobes and not the top of the spring head right?

 

 

Jjbaehr, nice illustration, I have followed that very same M.O. to a capital "T". I've read somewhere before that the lobe need to be facing off/away from the rocker arms/top of the spring head.

 

Yeah, I unscrew open the adjusting screw all the way to open till it won't go any more. I got no spare room for the feeler to go into. The rocker arms won't move up or down (no play), but they will move side to side a bit.

 

When you set cylinder 1 to TDC are you checking the crank pulley mark as well? You weren't 180 out right?

 

And your positive you are using the right gauge? I'm sorry for the dumb questions but something is not quite right. Should be 0.008 for the exhaust.

 

No pun intended, no crime committed by asking questions. Yeah #1 is at TDC & marks do line up. I even put a straight coat hanger wire in #1 to be more precised about it. I can't even jam the thinness feeler in there and that's almost pepper thickness.
My only doupt is, how do really know if u r trully hitting TDC on the up stroke?