so after tuning with big exhaust and intake for best performance.

will it damage the engine if i put a smaller diameter longer pipe intake and put a small diameter pipe silencer in the exhaust and make it a warm air intake by placing the inlet next to the engine or something

and then dyno tune it for gas mileage with that setup. would choking an engine out like that hurt anything.

i do enjoy driving the car and not always want to smash on it. if i want to get from a to b i would like to maximize my gas mileage

pretty much do what d15z1 engine does is to use small intake tube to cut down the air intake volume...



but with a high compression b series.( most likely around 12.8cr) and pro1 cams( im rebuildng my gsr in the signature .

 

this is a new year joke post right?

 

no its not bro if you dont know dont reply

 

You would probably be better off with setting up primary/secondary maps to switch between depending on configuration. Most tunable EMS' have the option to switch between two or more maps on the chip/emulator.


What you are wanting to do is perfectly fine, but I would caution you to keep an eye out for anything unusual. I dont image high IATs would be conductive to suppressing detonation/pinging at certain loads with your CR. Could be wrong though. You should definitely see an increase in MPG with a warm air intake, and/or slightly restricted intake/exhaust system. You will know once you get it on a wideband O2 and start seeing places in the map that now require less fuel to maintain a specified AFR. Less fuel = less air = less power.

 

thats what i was planning. i have neptune rtp already and a permanent wideband with the gauge.
i thought about putting an egr valve since gsr has an egr port that is not machined but its a complicated system.
warm air intake is much simpler to make especially for winter time

 

Why not use throttle modulation to keep the rpm low and vacuum high? An engine that has been modified to produce more power should also have better fuel economy provided you keep your foot out of it.

I have personally gotten 37mpg on Crome with a 12.0:1 LS-VTEC using 310cc Injectors and 30mph 10.0:1 turbo on Neptune with 1,200 cc injectors. No map switching, no restricters... Just a solid tune and an easy foot.

I did lose about 7mpg when I switched the turbo car to e85

Not the info you are asking for.. But my experience none the less.

 

well i did get around 35mpg when it was tuned but i think i can get even more with a simple mod like restricting the intake and exhaust flow.


and u know that its harder to keep from smashing on it when your car goes bwaaAAAAAAAA instead of single cam non vtec going bbbbbbbbbbbbwwwwwwwwaaoooouuuuuu

but ive been driving my single cam hatch for abotu 4 months and im in love with that MPG im getting close to 40 sometimes...

about 90% of the time i got 18-20mpg because there wasnt a single day in a year that i drove it without going through gears at least once lol

then that one time i drove on the freeway at steady speed for long time i got around 35mpg lol that wasnt fun

 

I get 24MPG beating the living **** out of my car and 26MPG normal city driving. 30MPG if I drive a lot of sustained highway. I would never restrict a motor for MPG, simply drive more carefully and get cruising AFR's in the 15.5:1 area.

 

15.5 with almost 13 compression? u sure its safe?

 

im not talking about restricting to 1 inch intake diameter and 1 inch exhaust.

maybe somewhere around 2.5 inch intake pipe instead of 3.5

 

IDK try it and report back. Your compression is controlling your use of timing more so than it is fueling. 13:1 and pump gas not being E85 is just stupid. You might need more fueling to prevent detonation but cruising is light throttle. Who's your tuner? If they can't figure it out, you should probably look for a new one.

 

If you decrease the size of intake and exhaust you are going to increase pumping losses. The easier it is for the engine to get the fresh air in and exhaust out the more efficient it will be.

Put an egg under the gas pedal.

 

It will get crushed as soon as im out of the parking lot lol

 

this post is key, pay close attention to it. a proper tune will not only maximize your power when using heavy throttle, but it will also maximize your gas mileage when cruising and driving normally.

a smaller intake pipe and/or smaller exhaust and/or hot air intake will not improve your gas mileage. because all of those things will reduce power output at a given throttle position, requiring heavier throttle to bring the airflow back up to maintain the same speed/power.

the only time de-tuning an engine works for improving gas mileage is if you have aftermarket parts installed that are designed to give more power in higher rpms, like cams, larger valves, different intake manifold, etc etc, because they increase airflow at higher rpms by using much larger everything, but which decreases air velocity at lower rpms. in that case, going back to stock parts would more than likely increase cruising mpg's because it would bring back the higher air velocity at lower rpms

 

Warmer intake temps increase your EGT's, higher EGT's mean you should pull timing or add more fuel, that is the opposite of increasing fuel efficiency.

Ideally you want your intake temps as low as possible without condensation and the intake velocity as high as possible to reduce pumping losses. Vacuum destroys fuel efficiency, which is why high comp with a very mild turbo setup gets better gas mileage than say a lower comp with a lot of boost. It also gets more mileage than the equilavent NA engine due to lack of vacuum.

Efficiency is all about decreasing pumping losses and windage. Plugging up your engine will not do this. Straightening out your intake and exhaust pathways or making them flow better is the correct path. If you are having issues with mileage after that it has more to do with the operator than the engine.

 

Hot air intakes improve gas milage through better fuel atomization amd lower air density. Less air=less fuel. You can actually add timing to reduce egts. Retarding the timing increases egts as the fuel is being burnt later.
As long as you have good afrs, you can manage the egts through timing.

I vote for high flowing intake and exhaust, warm air intake, and a solid tune. And a brick under your pedal to stay out of it.

 

im thinking the same thing for you when you want to run a high comp decent size cammed motor with a small exhaust and hotter intake charge.


m4xwellmurd3r - you are right about the timing being able to fine tune egt's. i was doing that with my b20 before the wicked winter weather set in. there should be a sweet spot if you will somewhere that either adding or decreasing timing will increase egt. its probably a 2-4 degree window from what ive noticed personally over the years