I built a 13.1 gsr using the GSR 87.20mms crankshaft and rods with fully built ported and polished GSR head skunk2 stage 2 cams and I love how it performs

Know I have a GSR block and a option to use a 87.2mm GSR crank or 89mm LS/b20 crankshaft with 82mms 13.1 piston and I have skunk2 stage3 camshaft and fully built ported and polished GSR head

PARTS i have
skunk2 Ultra Series Street intake
Skunk2 pro 74mms Tb
Skunk2 tuner 3 cams
Skunk2 pro valve train
Skunk2 LAM
PLM- try-y big tube header



So has any one used a LS crankshaft for drag racing
I been told that the gsr crankshaft is better and can make more power but I have aso heard that a LS crankshaft and rods will make more power

So should I use gsr crank and rods. Or LS crank and rods for my high compression N/A gsr build

It going to be mostly a street car and as 6500rpm+ when racing

 

It's been done but me personally would use the 87.2mm vs the 89mm. Smaller stroke can sustain higher RPM's for a longer period of time.

 

I'm will be running a 89mm crank in my b20v but I'm using longer off the shelf eagle 5.531" rods. I'll be running custom cp pistons with the pin moved up to compensate for the longer rods. I'm hoping the improved r/s ratio will help carry the power into the higher rpms.

 

Thanks Flbyu352.
Keneticsi I was going to us a b20 block with gsr head but the only cast piston they make is a ITR 84.5 and it only like 11.5.1c and I didn't want to spend the ex money for long rods and custom piston with out a sleeved block or a CSS block so i got the nippon CTR 82mm

 

u have a dyno sheet?
its similar to what im doing.

you also should check to see if your harmonic ballancer is in top notch condition either oem or ATI liquid dampener. dont put a 15 year old blown out harmonic dampener and expect it to do its job. my motor sounded like a chainsaw when it hit about 6500 rpm

and i also like 87mm crank in a gsr motor
you could find a clean ITR crank that will give u much better ballanced crank for higher rpm. ( people argue about that day and night tho)
itr crank has heavier counterballance to keep it more stable at high rpm but itr has lighter flywheel to offset the crank weight so at the end rotating assembly is same weight as gsr.

 

I have an LS crank and Crower LS rods in my turbo car. @28 Psi it made 460 wtq and 650 whp torque is much higher than it was with the gsr crank and rods. Most guys making the same amount of torque as I am are well over 700 whp. When I'm ready to have the boost turned up It should make 750+ hp and a little over 500 lbs/ft

 

for my harmonic balancer I have a VMS Racing Light Weight aluminum Civic EK9 Type R Crank Pulley CTR
its a single belt are they any good or did I waste my money

 

I also have a oem honda CTR pulley to would that be better then the aluminum VMS oem

 

The vms pulley is good, used it on several of my motors, never had an issue

 

I will be running a cncwerx css block

 

yeah I was going to spend the money for that block and I was going to buy long Eagle 5.5 rods and customs 14.5 compression pistons but my last setup made good power and pulled head so on this setup
im going to have a better ported head and bolt on and cams so hoping for about 20-30 more power and im going to e85 last motor was on 93 shell pump

 

A solid crank pulley is not a harmonic ballancer.

Theres no dampening of any kind from solid ctr /style pulley

 

So a oem honda CTR crank pulley is not good so what about the vibrations from the clutch because they're not balanced

 

there are many pages explaining the ctr pulley and its knockoffs and why you should use a real harmonic ballancer.

yes theres people doing all kinds of setups and claim all kinds of stuff

i ran an engine with 2 used rod bearings from a 91 civic for 8 months instead of buying new bearings the crank was also scuffed. while everyone told me the car wouldnt make it 20 miles it ran daily for almost a year of heavy driving and some abuse in last 2 months of its life. doesnt mean that i recommend everyone slapping used bearings in their engine to save a buck...
in emergencies i made some engines work using things that shouldnt be used... but not a high performance motor because every lil thing will cost you a whole lot of cash if it breaks like in my case.

 

If I'm not mistaken... don't you have to ditch the oil squirters when you go to the 89mm/LS crank?? thats something else to think about when looking at reliability and overall performance.... I had both cranks laying there when I built my motor and chose the ITR crank so I could keep the oil squirters and high rpm stability.

 

I cant actually remember if I still have them or not lol but Im pretty sure they are gone

 

Who said clutches arent balanced? And the clutch side of the crank is also supported by the transmission if you think about it.

Allll the vibration and harmonics of the engine go to the cranks snout. Without a damper to absorb those harmonics, **** breaks. There are numerous cases of solid type pulleys shattering oil pump gears.

 

I have Tota billit oil pump gear