I have a stock block. im in the process of putting it together for the tune. was wondering if you have any comments or advice. lol but im trying to run a stock block only. that can push up to at least 240+hp. i know thats impossible with just a stock block... but bare with me here.. haha what compression should i run? what else more do i need to do to prepare it for the tune. getting it tuned @inlinefour (il4) with hondata s300 v2. heres my set up. let me know what you think i should do.

B20V
98 integra type r head
arp head studs
kms dual valve springs and retainers
supertech black nitride flat valves
aem tru time cam gears
skunk 2 stage 2 tuner camshafts
itr manifold ported
aem high flow fuel rail
rc 550 injectors
255 fuel pump
omni 68mm throttle body port matched
3in short ram intake with velocity stack
dc non carb 4-1 3in collector
magnaflow b pipe
blox test pipe
obx 3in forza muffler
aluminum single core radiator
99 b20b hmo bone stock block
gsr water/oil pump
gsr trans
chipped p28

 

13+:1 compression, ditch the tuner2's. pick up some pro 2's or 3's, ditch the dc header and get something like a Toda or Sk2 Alpha.

There is a whole b20vtec stock sleeve thread that will point you in the right direction.

 

i wont say 13:1 is a must. there are plenty 230+whp on itr reps and they are 11:8+. i agree tho with the pro 2s or bigger. a nice header and exhaust too.

im shooting for the same in my ek. my build will be one month long starting in feb.

 

He wants to do this on a stock short block...

 

i wasnt planning to go all out with my daily driver.. i have a rs machine sleeve gsr bored to 86mm for my boost project. i was planning to run with the stock block set up for 6-12 months until i have enough money and time for the project. so what should i do for the most power but reliable until the 6-12 month period. what do you fellow hondatech enthusiast think?

 

once im done with the rs machine gsr block imma just swap out the block, install the turbo. maybe upgrade some minor bolt ons but thats it. then its off to the tune. what set up should i go for than?

 

I would just keep it stock of its only for that little period of time. That, or spray it with some nitrous. Thats always fun.

I guess somewhere around 12:1 would be fine if youre just tryin to run a fun daily till your turbo block is ready

 

What fuel do you plan on using?

If your thinking 12-13:1 on 91 octane, then that tune better be spot on perfect.

 

Are you attempting to keep the stock block and achieve 240 whp?

 

by stock block i assume he means stock sleeve. lets not be too quick to start a riot.

 

Assuming works.

 

A stock B20V w/ upgraded rod bolts is a quick and fun DD motor as is. No need to up your budget on a motor that you don't plan on using for a long time or "seriously". Save the extras for your boost build. That being said you will not make 240 on a stock block. It's obvious you havent searched either, those cams will not work with those pistons. And I wouldn't recommend running over 12:1 as a daily on pump either.
You're going about this all wrong and you're going to waste your money.

Stock block w/ arp bolts
Stock Vtec head
B-Vtec tranny

200whp, quick and reliable.

 

this is the conclusion i just came to after building an lsvtec with a c/r over 12:1

next time around:

jdm low miles phk piston high comp block
rehone/ new rings while the oem pistons/rods are out for arp rod bolt installation
maybe new rod bearings going 1 or 2 colors looser, should be able to keep the mains

vtec head
probably itr cam and a itr or similar intake manifold
gsr or b16 w/gsr5th tranny

rock out. compression should be around 10.5:1 give or take depending on hg and any head milling. ive been doing research recently and ive seen that basic setup making 190-205ish whp and around 135 - 145wtq depending on dyno. certainly fun and pretty low maintenance.

 

Dont assume you need looser bearings, measure the journals and rods after they have been rounded. When I did my ls/vtec rods with ARP's I measured the ID before hand and re rounded them to as close to factory as I could. Ran the "correct" color bearing and plastigauged it to double check. I wouldnt just slap bearings in it that are 2 sizes too loose.

 

^im sure he was going to measure it. That's why he said 1 to 2 colors, because he doesn't know how off it will be.

 

yes i would have measured, and plastigaged to confirm.

if you are going to increase the revs i would make sure the rod bearings are above .0015". the nonvtec motors have pretty tight specs. right from the helms, notice how the smallest spec for a vtec motor is almost the same as the biggest for a nonvtec. a high revving motor with a rod at .001 would probably not be a happy camper for a long time

Connecting Rod Bearing-to-Journal Clearance:
b18b1 engine:
Standard New: 0.020 - 0.038 mm
0.0008- 0.0015in
Service Limit: 0.050mm 0.0020in

b18C1 engine:
Standard New: 0.032 - 0.050 mm
.0013 - .0020in )
Service Limit: 0.060mm 0.0024in

B18C5 engine:
Standard New: 0.038 - 0.050 mm
(0.0015- 0.0020in
Service Limit: 0.060 mm .0024 inl