I am hoping someone here can help me figure out some of the problems with my car.
First off, I have a '95 Honda Accord EX Station Wagon 2.2L. Its a great car and I love it. But there are some minor things that need fixing but I don't know where the problem lies. The problems are as follows,
- The car doe not turn over the first time, it takes about 4 or 5 times before it starts.
- There is nothing coming out of the exhaust. (I believe that catalytic converter might be clogged but am unsure)
- The check engine light is on and the error code coming back is 1801(manufacture specific) and haven't found out what it means.
- The ABS light is on.
- The SRS light is on.
- Car idles low every now and then.
- When stepping on the gas you can hear like a gushing wind sound coming from the motor.
- Car sometimes hesitates when stepping on the gas.

If anybody has any suggestions or solutions to these problems please let me know. I can answer any questions and am pretty car savy. Thank you in advance!!

 

All I can say is, learn from working on your car, its the best and only way to learn. You can clean your battery terminals maybe that will help it start better, or maybe you need a new battery.

- You cat is probably clogged
- Use Google to find what the CEL means
- Clean your IACV of gunk to fix your low idle issue and make sure you have full coolant and that you have no air bubbles in it
- For the hesitation, replace your spark plugs/ cap/rotor
-ABS light I do not know but maybe you need to replace something or clean something to do with the ABS system.
-SRS light I do not know could be something in the wiring, its unconnected or something
- The gushing wind sound is probably just intake noise, its completely normal.



Merry Christmas.

 

Get the code(s)...pretty sure the 95 wagon 2.2 is still OBD-I. Which means, jump the service connector and read the code(s) from the CEL, ABS and SRS.

 

Thank you for the suggestions! I will try them out. It has a brand new battery in it so I know that's not the problem. The spark plugs and cap are also new. Ill let you know what happens.

Merry Christmas to you too!

 

If the engine does not crank(starter inoperative) check the battery connections are clean and tight, the cables to the starter and grounds are clean and tight. If so, then move on to the ignition switch, click on the TechAuto link in my sig and then choose 'Ignition Switch' in the upper left column.
If the exhaust is blocked the engine would not run for very long if at all.
Mufflers and resonators can also internally collapse, blocking flow. Don't blame the catalyst immediately.
How did you get this code? Did you use a scanner?
Strangely enough if you did retrieve P1801(and OBDII code from an OBD1 car)that is for the Clutch Safety switch open, but if your car is an Automatic it should not have this issue. You would most likely have a P1871 for Neutral Safety switch open. But if this is the correct code, a fault in the safety switch would not allow the starter to turn on.
If the scanner/code reader you are using did not retrieve the codes, then you can check the codes via a two wire test connector located under/behind the glove box door. Jumper the connector and turn the key to II(ON), the codes will start at the CEL, then will go to the ABS, and then the SRS, if there are codes stored.
In the Accord FAQ at the top of the page there are links to OBD/ABS/SRS codes.
How low? What is your normal idle rpm?
Is the car stock? When does this gushing wind happen exactly? Pulling away from a stop, while cruising, when accelerating?
Could be related to many things, from worn ignition components, to plugged or inoperable EGR system, or vacuum leaks...

A '95 car would not have an OBDII connector, and would not provide an OBDII code, how did you retrieve this code? Did you scan the car yourself, or did you let a mechanic scan it and that is what you were told? If you were told this is the code and your car is a '95, pull out the center ashtray. Is there a large electical harness connector behind it? If not then your car is OBDI and will not have the ability to produce the code you mentioned. Unless your car has been modified to '96/'97 drivetrain. History on the car would be helpful.

 

I'll check that out.

I took the car to a local mechanic and he told me that was the code he was getting and didn't know what it meant because it's a manufacture specific.

Do you know where I can find a guide to do this?

About 375-450

The car is full stock. The gushing wind sound occurs when accelerating only. And I'm pretty sure it's not the intake because I had a 97 Honda Accord with the same motor that didn't do that.

I just recently bought the car. The guy I bought it from didn't know much about it because it just sat in his driveway, he never drove it. He bought it from an electrician. The electrician bought it from an old couple(original owners).

 

This sounds off. If your car is a '95 2.2 it is OBDI and does NOT have the DTC OBDII code system. There is no way to attach a scanner to the car and read such a code.

Open the hood of your car, look for the emissions label, it will state on the bottom of the label something to the effect of " this vehicle is in compliance with (Federal/Calif/High Altitude) emissions laws for model year 199*."
What ever year is on that tag should be what the model year of car you have.

Below the radio there is the ash tray, pull that out. If your car is OBDI there will be a hole where there looks like there should be something there. This is correct for 94/95 cars. If there is a large electrical connector there then that is for the OBDII scanner to attach to, and thus your car has an OBDII system. But this will only be on '96/'97 cars. I find it odd that anyone would change to OBDII.

To do self diagnostics on a 94-97 Accord, go to the passenger side, look below and behind the center right of the glovebox door. You will see three connectors, and Orange plastic connector, and two Blue connectos, one two wire and one three wire. You will unhook the Blue Two Wire connector and jumper it with a wire. When the ignition is turned to II(ON) the CEL light will blink any applicable codes using the OBDI code readout.
ECU AND ABS CODES HERE!

Watch the codes and verify what you see, the codes will repeat. Record them down and report back.


That is a bit low, have you checked that the base timing is correct?
Warm up the car, shut it off, jumper the two wire blue connector, restart the car and with a timing light the #1 spark plug should line up with the three dash red marks on the crank pulley. If the base timing is off it may allow for an incorrect idle speed.

Is the large suitcase muffler still located behind the inner fender on the passenger side? Three plastic screws and a 10mm bolt will need to be removed to gain access to the suitcase. If it is removed this may be the cause of the louder intake noise.

Would be interesting if the 2nd owner changed it over to OBDII, possibly using the OBDI components on another project. But still strange.

 

The car is OBDI so idk where they got that code.
Sorry for the long delay in my response. In the past week I removed my cat and it was not clogged. So I removed my muffler and that's where the problem lied. The muffler was all busted inside which was preventing any air from coming out. This also fixed my idle issue.




I have also discovered that my car will only start after the check engine light comes on. Weird. Anybody know why that might be?

The code I got back from the check engine light being on comes up as cylinder sensor. I have searched Google and haven't found anything out. So the questions I have are, what's the problem? Can it be fixed? If so, how?

 

since u "figured out" what was wrong with the idle and engine performance, have you reset the computer and driven it around?

computer will usually store the code. as for being OBDI you can look up online on how to jump the circuit under the glove box. it should be a blue connector. just make a connection between the two pins and turn the ignition on but do not crank the engine. at that point you will count the blinks for the CEL on the dashboard. long blinks are 10's, short blinks are 1's (ex. 3 long blinks followed by 5 short blinks = code 35). by doing this you will also get to check the SRS and ABS for any error codes.
good luck!!

 

The cylinder sensor error is the code I got when I jumped the blue connector. I'm wondering how I can fix that.

I just went out to my car and double checked that it is the Cylinder Sensor error that I'm getting for the CEL. But I also noticed that the D4 light(gear indicator) flashing and that came up with code 16. What does that code mean?

 

u might want to recount the flashing D4 light, i didnt see a code 16 on the list below.

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor low input
92 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

TCU Codes:

CODE LIST:

1-Lock-up solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
2-Lock-up solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
3-Throttle Position Sensor circuit open or shorted.
4-Vehicle Speed Sensor open or shorted - No signal from speedometer.
5-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit shorted.
6-Shift Lever Position Switch circuit open.
7-Shift Solenoid 'A' circuit open or shorted.
8-Shift Solenoid 'B' circuit open or shorted.
9-Counter shaft or transmission speed pulse generator open or shorted.
10-Coolant Temperature Sensor open or shorted.
11-Engine RPM (Ignition coil signal) open or shorted.
12-(No code 12 used)
13-Main shaft speed pulse generator open or shorted.
14-Linear (line pressure control) solenoid open or shorted.
15-Kick down switch circuit shorted.

 

Actually its code 15 sorry.

 

Does anybody know how to fix the cylinder sensor issue?

 

What code is coming from what light?

CEL code is?

D4 code is ? 15?

 

CEL Code : 9
D4 Code: 15

 

That is the crank position sensor, it is located inside the distributor on 94/95 cars. If it fails it cannot tell the igniter when to fire the coil.
Diagnostics...
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

If it does turn out to the the CYP sensor, be careful of some online retailers, they have the 96/97 ~$300 CYP sensor down as for the 94/95. Also I am not sure if that sensor is available separately from the distributor.

http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
Scroll down to 9/15 NM/NC sensors.

The NM/NC sensors monitor the shaft speeds of the transmission, they are magnetic pickups. If the fluid is not changed regularly, ferrous material can build up on the end of the sensors and resolution of the sensor. Pulling them out and cleaning them off will fix that problem, but make sure it is not a wiring problem or an open circuit in the sensor.


Verify that the CEL light is blinking the 9 code and the D4 light is blinking the 15 code.

 

This is what I found:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...331&cc=1167319
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...906&cc=1167319
I am not sure if I should just buy one of those or a whole new distributor. Both of those sensors say they are for my car.

I will check those sensors after work tomorrow.