What is "the new" B16 swap?
I know back in the 90's-2000's it was all about the B16 swaps, B16 swaps. I know you can still do it, but a B16 will probably have high mileage by now hello! Now its 2014!! So what is "the new" B16 swap? Is it with a B20 from a CRV, is that the one, or is it the K20? Which one is it? and why?
I can only imagine b20s are popular now because the 84mm bore, but super thin walls makes it less than desirable. I would say k swaps are the new thing since its hondas newest thing
alot of people are just slapping a vtec head on the stock b20 block and raise the rev limit to 8500rpm and simply dont care.
then it blows up and in some rare cases it runs for few years.
gsr took place of the b16 swap for a while
but now after beating on gsrs for so long they are getting hard to find in good condition
k swaps are in alot of cases cheaper to buy then a complete gsr swap
then it blows up and in some rare cases it runs for few years.
gsr took place of the b16 swap for a while
but now after beating on gsrs for so long they are getting hard to find in good condition
k swaps are in alot of cases cheaper to buy then a complete gsr swap
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been revving my allmotor stock internal b20vtec to 8400 for 5+yrs and its still going strong. people just dont know how to take care of their motors. i have 100+time slips, 10+dyno tunes, and numerous street tuning on this motor. my tuner is amazed of how much and how long of a beating my motor has taken. someone caught my tuners interest about how much a stock sleeve b20 with a ge block guard can handle, so he decided to grab one, ge block guard, forged 84.5 pistons and rods, built vtec head and boost. made 696whp. my tuner has done this on two separate b20 stock sleeve blocks making 650-700 with no sleeve failures and made 453whp on a 8.8cr bone stock bottom end no block guard with a built vtec head b20vtec. people dont need to be scared of stock b20 sleeves if done and handled correctly, especially allmotor.
In my area, its seems h2b, k series and starting is the j swap.
There is no was a k20 from a type s is going for less then $1000, at least not with in 2000 miles of me. The cheapest base model k series ive found was $1200 with just the long block. The trans was close in price. You migjt get lucky and find everything street, high milage beat on swap for $2000-2500. Gsr's are fairly common swap and the reason they are hard to find is, no one gets rid of them. I have found the for $800 on CL but I dont buy motors on peoples word. Peoples word dont mean squat now days.
Im debating doing another swap as in a j series or boosting my b18. I can get a j32a2 for $450 with 98, xxx miles and a 6 speed for $775. I think over all, a j swap would be cheaper then a quality turbo setup including injectors, guage, wide band, electronic boost controler ect... and the j will put down great n/a power with hondas reliability. Just not sure if I want the extra 100ish lbs that far on the front of the car. I think forward traction would benefit from the pendulum effect and weight on the tires but cornering would probably suffer and I like canyon driving.
There is no was a k20 from a type s is going for less then $1000, at least not with in 2000 miles of me. The cheapest base model k series ive found was $1200 with just the long block. The trans was close in price. You migjt get lucky and find everything street, high milage beat on swap for $2000-2500. Gsr's are fairly common swap and the reason they are hard to find is, no one gets rid of them. I have found the for $800 on CL but I dont buy motors on peoples word. Peoples word dont mean squat now days.
Im debating doing another swap as in a j series or boosting my b18. I can get a j32a2 for $450 with 98, xxx miles and a 6 speed for $775. I think over all, a j swap would be cheaper then a quality turbo setup including injectors, guage, wide band, electronic boost controler ect... and the j will put down great n/a power with hondas reliability. Just not sure if I want the extra 100ish lbs that far on the front of the car. I think forward traction would benefit from the pendulum effect and weight on the tires but cornering would probably suffer and I like canyon driving.
Build a 12 second car for less that 3k? Sign me up for a B20V.
A K and J are for "ballers" who wanna say I have this or that and "look at me". A properly built B will cost less and be faster than a stock K swap. Hell even a stock GSR on boost will smash a K and cost the same or less. Plus K trannys seem to be high maintenance.
I just don't see the point unless you really plan on putting it to use. My .02
A K and J are for "ballers" who wanna say I have this or that and "look at me". A properly built B will cost less and be faster than a stock K swap. Hell even a stock GSR on boost will smash a K and cost the same or less. Plus K trannys seem to be high maintenance.
I just don't see the point unless you really plan on putting it to use. My .02
i know this is an n/a topic but thanks to the introduction of vitara pistons the sohc turbo beats all in terms of reliability, simplicity and cost. what other setup is out there that can beat road bikes on a roll let alone any fully built k swap for under 3gs? I built my 10 sec vitara setup for under $2500 and it had a/c and ps. If your savvy enough you can probably build it for even less.
I dont know why people kill themselves for a k or j swap. today compared to the 90's, the game changed so much. I bet you remember the apexi vafc. we have so many choices now its really all bout personal preference.
I dont know why people kill themselves for a k or j swap. today compared to the 90's, the game changed so much. I bet you remember the apexi vafc. we have so many choices now its really all bout personal preference.
Everyone forgets the black sheep swap of the family
H2B or F2B
It's a drop in motor.. Just gotta bang out the frame rail or cut it to fit the alt. and shave down the block to oil pan bolts hehe <3 I love my motor
H2B or F2B
It's a drop in motor.. Just gotta bang out the frame rail or cut it to fit the alt. and shave down the block to oil pan bolts hehe <3 I love my motor
thats not exactly drop in lol
its in same category as fully built.
well yea you can drop in a v8 jus cut here and there and its a drop in motor
its in same category as fully built.
well yea you can drop in a v8 jus cut here and there and its a drop in motor
I took a hammer to my engine bay and it dropped it :x. It's drop in if u don't go the h2b route. But then it's slow with that long gear h22 tranny blah
.01% of users on HT have a true "fully build" motor
Last edited by 93egSLEEPER; Dec 27, 2013 at 01:05 PM.
K swap is the new "popular" swap.
I'm not sure why the J has a pricey image, I have been daily driving mine for almost 2 years. Considerably cheaper than a B18C R swap or a JDM H22 LSD and WAY more bang for the buck. My hood closes with a little rib cutting and an intake manifold swap. Plus, I can drive over speed bumps without worry.
Full swap - 2850 (J32A2 with 6 spd LSD trans)
Harness with immobilizer etc... - 850
Mounts - 450
Axles - 400
Plus a little effort and some little things here and there. So budget 5k total and you'll be fine.
That is 260HP and 232lbs of torque stock! Bolt on's are well received and my car pulls like a train in 6th on the highway. So far I haven't been on the losing end of playing with any of my friends cars (including an automatic BMW 335 bi-turbo) and if I drive properly I get decent mileage (around 8L/100km mostly city driving).
The K is a good motor with a ton of potential, and will be able to beat the J in the specific output per liter department due to the considerably more advanced valvetrain. But, it just lacks the gobs of torque that make the J the better Daily driving choice. The K would be my choice for a all out hi revving race application but for a car that sees mostly streets, the J wins handsdown.
I'm not sure why the J has a pricey image, I have been daily driving mine for almost 2 years. Considerably cheaper than a B18C R swap or a JDM H22 LSD and WAY more bang for the buck. My hood closes with a little rib cutting and an intake manifold swap. Plus, I can drive over speed bumps without worry.
Full swap - 2850 (J32A2 with 6 spd LSD trans)
Harness with immobilizer etc... - 850
Mounts - 450
Axles - 400
Plus a little effort and some little things here and there. So budget 5k total and you'll be fine.
That is 260HP and 232lbs of torque stock! Bolt on's are well received and my car pulls like a train in 6th on the highway. So far I haven't been on the losing end of playing with any of my friends cars (including an automatic BMW 335 bi-turbo) and if I drive properly I get decent mileage (around 8L/100km mostly city driving).
The K is a good motor with a ton of potential, and will be able to beat the J in the specific output per liter department due to the considerably more advanced valvetrain. But, it just lacks the gobs of torque that make the J the better Daily driving choice. The K would be my choice for a all out hi revving race application but for a car that sees mostly streets, the J wins handsdown.
I'd say half assed K swaps. I can't tell you how many I see that are total hack jobs and people still nut swinger. Then there's the hype that it's fast because it's K powered. People forget that stock or shitty parts they are a complete dog just like just about any motor.
and you are saying K series is a drop in? H2b is a lot easier drop in than a K. i have had both in a crx and a 92 civic hatch. H2B for me for the cost / power output / and reliability was the go to for me.
Do you have a K motor?
H2B really doesnt require much to put it in. (An Ef is a little more work but not too bad) EG its just the mod the back of the block. not really a big deal.
and a B Series in an EF still requires you to use a hammer.
and then you compare an H2b Swap to fully building an engine? i think a little grinding of the block is a lot less than fully taking apart your engine, mic'ing the crank. sleeves, machine work, valve job, assembling the short block. putting on the head studs/main studs, head assmbly, torquing all bolts, assemble trans, clutch, degree cams, install head and cams, and a long list of other stuff.
Not sure where you are getting your info. doesnt seem to be real world experience.




